SOLD HyperSpark Distributor - Modified for 2F (1 Viewer)

[zerotreedelta]

Location

United States

Essentially new HyperSpark distributor, albeit lightly modified to fit the 2F - unit is a modified Jeep 258 version (565-307).

Story:
I was working on assembling my frame-off '76 in 2020 when an alternator/regulator issue and voltage spike killed the hall effect sensor on this unit. Due to "other events" at the time in late 2020, repair times from Holley were on the order of months, so I just ordered another one to keep my project going. I later sent this unit in for service/warranty in Sep' 2021 - unit has under 30 minutes of runtime on it.

I've been running this same setup on my 2F with the Sniper and the Holley CDI and coil for about 2000 miles, and it's a nice setup. Works well with the Sniper, and the ability to control timing and not just rely on the IAC does help down low.

Essentially plug and play with Sniper wiring when used with the HyperSpark CDI box and coil - NOT INCLUDED:

Holley Sniper EFI 556-151 Sniper EFI HyperSpark CD Ignition Box

Do you need to upgrade your ignition system due to a recent Sniper EFI installation, but have no idea which option is best? Introducing HyperSpark Ignition, from Sniper EFI. The complete system consists of a CD Ignition Box, Billet distributor with Hall effect crank signal sensor, an ignition...

www.holley.com

Holley Sniper EFI 556-152 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition Coil

Do you need to upgrade your ignition system due to a recent Sniper EFI installation, but have no idea which option is best? Introducing HyperSpark Ignition, from Sniper EFI. The complete system consists of an ignition coil, CD ignition box, billet distributor with hall effect crank signal...

www.holley.com

Will need a hold-down clamp along these lines, but cheap to procure:
Amazon product ASIN B00MI5RJTA
Included:

• Modified Distributor, essentially new in box
• An email copy of my current tuning map (fuel + timing) for use as a base
  • not a dyno tune, but from miles of road tuning; representative of a mostly factory timing curve
  • Additional tuning does require using the Holley software on a laptop (not the dash screen), but fairly straightforward
• ** Up to purchaser to verify final tune and fitment **

$600 shipped in the US.

Some details on the mods here - no secrets, fairly minor:

Holley Sniper (and Hyperspark!) Install, First Start : (FJ40 Week 41) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RJfL5R-7Rw

 

[ryanwk628]

So cool that you did this!

Next step coil near plug conversion?

 

[Rustyj41]

What was done to modify the dis?

 

[zerotreedelta]

Not a ton:

• shutter wheel shifted up slightly on the main shaft to give proper tang length to the oil pump; spacer added on lower shaft to compensate
  • Somewhat similar to some HEI mods re: gear spacing:
  • 
• shaft turned down a very small amount where exposed below the housing to fit the Toyota gear and pump (very light - few thou only)
• Chevy gear swapped to a Toyota gear for correct spiral

Video on the above ^^^

 

[Wildcat Walker]

So what makes this a $600 dizzy, compared to a $292 dizzy, other than the 20 minutes on the lathe and a new roll pin hole for the gear?

 

[ryanwk628]

So what makes this a $600 dizzy, compared to a $292 dizzy, other than the 20 minutes on the lathe and a new roll pin hole for the gear?

Id speculate his time, getting a Toyota gear, the shipping, risk of buying one to have it not work and other costs of figuring this out, then there are costs of owning and operating a lathe, developing the skills to do this, and the fact that no one else has... But if you don't like it, don't buy it.

 

[zerotreedelta]

They're not a $292 dizzy -- actual price was $389, and it recently dropped to $349 at the holidays...but that's still actually $369 after tax to your door.

Timing gear itself was $20, shipping will likely be $25 or so (price included shipping), and the rest is time/knowledge. That leaves ~$100 for the work of disassembly, machining, reassembly, and packaging (all in all, +/- an hour)...and ~$100 for and included tune (time and effort there). There's well more than an hour in the tune when starting from scratch, and that's if you also know the Holley software as well as the timing specs for the 2F.

I have indeed shared what actually needs be done on the boards here via posts, so anyone is clearly free do replicate it on their own if desired - no secrets here. It's a fun project actually - but depending on skills/resources/knowledge/time, doing it yourself won't necessarily be a ton cheaper either.

md

EDIT: Also, this isn't an HEI-type mechanical distributor - it's a hall-effect style for fully controlled ignition through the Holley, if that wasn't clear.

 

[Rustyj41]

Is this still available? Starting to think about it again.

 

[zerotreedelta]

It is indeed still tucked away in storage - been pondering another project, but nothing at this point and there's a shallow-water jetboat project to do first, so it's still just boxed up.

"I've got a nice distributor for a 2F on the shelf - better find a 40 to build..."

Oddly enough, Holley bumped their prices - $454 after tax now for 565-307.

 

[Officer Friendly]

This still sitting on a dusty shelf?

 

[knuckle47]

I consider myself a bit of a purist and spent over 5k bring my FJ40 back to stock over 2 years ago. So, Let me just add: inspired by @zerotreedelta I went with the entire Hyperspark system for my ‘75 FJ 40 and there are several posts I placed here on my installation and questions. I am using the current stock curves made by the “learning” of the Sniper but…. Between the EFI and the Hyperspark, my FJ40 starts and runs as smooth as my wife’s suburban or my Silverado which I may just sell as my FJ40 can be my daily driver.

It is a mod I would consider on any FJ40 I have owned particularly since they are no longer daily drivers and if the vehicle sits for 3-4 weeks< it starts as if you drove it 15 minutes ago.

To be inspired accordingly, check out the most complete video documentation series on an FJ40 rebuild I have ever seen and see for yourself the precision with which he has assembled this FJ40. As an old guy with some free time, I have seen many of his episodes 4-5 times to clear up some questions I have had in my own FJ40 journey. Hope there is no objection to adding my 2 cents but that swap deserves some very real consideration if it’s within your powers to do so. @zerotreedelta …sorry to butt in

 

[zerotreedelta]

This still sitting on a dusty shelf?

Sorry - been away a bit working on another project. It is indeed still on the shelf.

md

 

[cronjob]

@zerotreedelta First, I think this a cool mod, and I'm glad to see how you did it in the video - I would be interested in something like this to go with my FJ60 2F Sniper setup.

As a comment though (and maybe I just missed it) but are you not concerned that the brass bushing you removed was providing some "lubrication" as an engineered wear surface? Replacing it with a steel spacer removes this function, and will eventually wear against the body of the distributor or perhaps even the gear. I understand it is in an oily area, but this would make me concerned that the lifetime could be reduced (potentially significantly) if some play is introduced by future wear. Maybe I'm overthinking this....

 

[Wildcat Walker]

@zerotreedelta First, I think this a cool mod, and I'm glad to see how you did it in the video - I would be interested in something like this to go with my FJ60 2F Sniper setup.

As a comment though (and maybe I just missed it) but are you not concerned that the brass bushing you removed was providing some "lubrication" as an engineered wear surface? Replacing it with a steel spacer removes this function, and will eventually wear against the body of the distributor or perhaps even the gear. I understand it is in an oily area, but this would make me concerned that the lifetime could be reduced (potentially significantly) if some play is introduced by future wear. Maybe I'm overthinking this....

I went back and re-watched the video. He calls the lower thrust washer "brass colored" not brass. What material it is, I do not know. What I do know is that if the compressive force between the distibutor shaft and distributor body was great enough, you would see a needle bearing and two flat races between those parts. The original 2F distributor just has steel shims/washers at that interface. The original distributor was cast aluminum, whereas the holley appears to have some sort of anodization which would have a greater surface hardness. Might keep an eye on it, but I dont think there is enough concern to warrant any immediate action. You'll be so happy that your rig has more power, better mileage, and wont stall on a hill that you won't even be thinking about this.

Somebody buy this before I do.

 

[knuckle47]

For what it’s worth, I am using a hyper spark distributor in my 1975. 2F engine and a Holley Sniper. I t does run extremely well. You should know that prior to the Holley hyper spark I did have a performance distributors DUI that I was hesitant to replace, but the truck did not perform as well as what I would have thought. It probably did perform well, but I discovered after I removed and installed the Holley hyper spark that my DUI was not properly set. I think that would’ve seriously improved the outcome, but the Holley is great and actually displays on the handheld with regards to timing.

 

[ryanwk628]

For what it’s worth, I am using a hyper spark distributor in my 1975. 2F engine and a Holley Sniper. I t does run extremely well. You should know that prior to the Holley hyper spark I did have a performance distributors DUI that I was hesitant to replace, but the truck did not perform as well as what I would have thought. It probably did perform well, but I discovered after I removed and installed the Holley hyper spark that my DUI was not properly set. I think that would’ve seriously improved the outcome, but the Holley is great and actually displays on the handheld with regards to timing.

What was not set correctly with it?

 

[knuckle47]

LONG STORY: Yes, you are correct

The truck ran great… it had a Weber on it when I got it… my biggest issue was that the truck bogged down a little at times when I would press the accelerator to the floor. None of my other FJ40’s ran this way. With My original ‘74, I swapped the stock, Downey Toyota Holley and the Man-A-Fre Rochester on and off but never had this hesitation…this was all in 1975 and 1976. Imperceptible differences between them all.

So 50 years later this FJ40 just had this one thing that bothered me. I bought the Holley Sniper about 2 months after I bought this truck. As I said, this truck ran so well, I never installed the Sniper. I waited 16-17 months to install it. It reall did run well except for that hesitation. When I finally installed it, it was a REALLY NICE change to the vehicle. Most impressive part is the near instant starts at any temperature so far.

I kept reading and watching @zerotreedelta posts and YouTube channel videos. He had modified and installed the Hyperspark system. I am a tinkerer and dive into some crazy projects so I decided to give this a try. HERE IS MY CLUE: I decided after 52 years to by a new timing light

Working to get things as accurately set as possible, I installed the Hyperspark set to the same timing as the DUI. Did everything by the book marking the pointer, the BB, accounting for lash and checked it all 3 times. With the math I came up with, the DUI was set to about 6* and could easily have been cranked to 10 or 11* timing. I believe this would have eliminated the flat zone upon acceleration.

In the meantime I had installed the Hyperspark, it is running great and sold the DUI with all new parts here on MUD. That simple 1/4” twist of the distributor might have saved me a few bucks.

On the other hand, it is a nice complete system and I am happy with the way it is all working

 

[ryanwk628]

LONG STORY: Yes, you are correct

The truck ran great… it had a Weber on it when I got it… my biggest issue was that the truck bogged down a little at times when I would press the accelerator to the floor. None of my other FJ40’s ran this way. With My original ‘74, I swapped the stock, Downey Toyota Holley and the Man-A-Fre Rochester on and off but never had this hesitation…this was all in 1975 and 1976. Imperceptible differences between them all.

So 50 years later this FJ40 just had this one thing that bothered me. I bought the Holley Sniper about 2 months after I bought this truck. As I said, this truck ran so well, I never installed the Sniper. I waited 16-17 months to install it. It reall did run well except for that hesitation. When I finally installed it, it was a REALLY NICE change to the vehicle. Most impressive part is the near instant starts at any temperature so far.

I kept reading and watching @zerotreedelta posts and YouTube channel videos. He had modified and installed the Hyperspark system. I am a tinkerer and dive into some crazy projects so I decided to give this a try. HERE IS MY CLUE: I decided after 52 years to by a new timing light

Working to get things as accurately set as possible, I installed the Hyperspark set to the same timing as the DUI. Did everything by the book marking the pointer, the BB, accounting for lash and checked it all 3 times. With the math I came up with, the DUI was set to about 6* and could easily have been cranked to 10 or 11* timing. I believe this would have eliminated the flat zone upon acceleration.

In the meantime I had installed the Hyperspark, it is running great and sold the DUI with all new parts here on MUD. That simple 1/4” twist of the distributor might have saved me a few bucks.

On the other hand, it is a nice complete system and I am happy with the way it is all working

Thank you. I had a similar issue and advancing seemed to help a lot. I decided to bias towards trusting the vacuum gauge. I know some people who advance timing until it pings under load, then back it off a bit. It will do until I can find someone who knows more than me to give it a once over. All this to get a baseline before going down the Sniper rabbit hole.

Timing control is something that interests me, and it looks like it can be done with a locked out HEI, but I want to do one thing at a time.

 

[zerotreedelta]

@zerotreedelta First, I think this a cool mod, and I'm glad to see how you did it in the video - I would be interested in something like this to go with my FJ60 2F Sniper setup.

As a comment though (and maybe I just missed it) but are you not concerned that the brass bushing you removed was providing some "lubrication" as an engineered wear surface? Replacing it with a steel spacer removes this function, and will eventually wear against the body of the distributor or perhaps even the gear. I understand it is in an oily area, but this would make me concerned that the lifetime could be reduced (potentially significantly) if some play is introduced by future wear. Maybe I'm overthinking this....

@Wildcat Walker beat me to it - it's been a few years, but I do think it was more of a plated washer more than solid brass. And I did actually use one of the shim kits to dial in the clearances, and those are also steel.

It's a fair question, but I suspect it'll be fine, especially as it does have a few thou' of wiggle room. I'll probably pull mine in the spring to generally check on things, but it's -15 today so it'll have to wait.

Some of this chatter should probably move to a 40-series-tech thread...I wonder if there's a way to do that besides copy-paste. And yes, you should be able to lock out an HEI dizzy as well...I didn't have one, so the cost delta wasn't much difference at the time. The small-cap of the Holley is nice in that it is a bit closer to OEM size and shape. I think (in theory) you could almost use a pertronix sensor, if it's a hall-effect.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Sold and off running a 2F somewhere.