Hydraulic Quick Coupler Oring replacement

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LAMBCRUSHER

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I have a greenlee 940 powerpack that needs a new oring in the quick coupler. No one lists just the oring or specs for it; they all want to sell me a new coupler for 40-50 bucks. Does anyone know what size of oring is needed for something like this, or where to find this information out? FWIW, it is the same as an enerpac coupler, and I'm fairly certain an SPX coupler as well. TIA
 
can't you remove and measure it? May be standard size.
 
the one on the pump did not come out in less than 4teen pieces, and the one in the ram is brand new and I do not want to bugger it up for fear of having to cough up another 40 bucks to replace that coupler should I not be able to source the replacement...but, yeah, that thought had crossed my mind...
 
For future use; the standard 3/8" x 3/4" pioneer 3000-3 quick coupling that is now made and supplied and serviced by Parker Hydraulics utilizes standard dimension O-rings; a 119 to be specific; which is a 3/16" thick x 3/4" diameter o-ring in Buna N; Viton being the best choice.
 
FWIW, IIRC the 119 I used were not 3/4", more like 1" and thinner I think (but not sure, long time ago).
 
yeah, the 119s the rubber guy brought me doesn't look like 3/4"diamter and looks thinner than 3/16 thickness, but it is what they're speced as, and it appears to be working as no drops escaped the coupler during the machines first full day production run. so far so good.
 
the 119s don't work...a gineric 1" ring seems to hold for a while, before it doesn't...but I digress...I bought a QC set from McMaster Carr for like 30 bucks delivered for BOTH pieces; male and female; complete with new Viton ring. for the cost, MC seems to have the best solution. Any of the other suppliers including fleabay and amozon were charging 50 bucks for just one half of the set...
 
I found a site where you can buy just the individual o-ring for hydraulic fittings. Here's a quick article about the different types of o rings if you're needing one made out of a specific material. The o-ring specs are listed on the page for each ring.
 
I had a career in rubber R&D, engineering and manufacturing. In my last job I had design control over o-rings and other static seals purchased by the corp. My motto was "Take me to your leaker".

Not throwing rocks but if anyone can measure an o-ring accurately enough so it will seal, my hat is off to you :clap:. We and the o-ring supplier used high dollar optical or laser based non-contact measurement systems. Non-contact because when you put a caliper or mic on an o-ring or any other piece of rubber it moves.

Common o-ring cross section diameters are: .070", .103", .139", .210"...etc. When designing an o-ring seal joint you typically went for about 20% compression on the o-ring cross section. So for a .103 that is about .020" of squeeze on the rubber. Get down to 15% and it will probably leak. Get over 25% and the o-ring will probably split. And that is not much room for error.

After fighting o-ring leak problems and doing post mortems for warranty claims for five years if all I had was a caliper and mic to measure the damn things I would have quit my job :bang:

O-rings size standards are by Aerospace Standard AS568 which is now controlled by the SAE. Japan and Germany have their versions as well.

You will run across the term o-ring "dash sizes". AS568 defines each o-ring with a 3 digit number preceded by a - (dash) with an example being the -119 (dash 119). That o-ring has an inside diameter of .924 and cross section diameter of .103. The dash size is size only, each size is available in several material types.

Here is a decent reference on o-ring sizes and materials: http://www.applerubber.com/src/pdf/as568-standard-size-o-rings.pdf

When installing an o-ring best to remember a couple of things: (1) Lube the o-ring and do not let it get twisted or pinched. (2) In any collision between rubber and sharp metal, the rubber will lose the fight.
 

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