How to remove the Carb...

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Joined
Aug 15, 2005
Threads
19
Messages
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Hello, I'm trying to take the carb off my 1985 2F. There are 4 bolts that stick up from the manifold, I've managed to take the nuts off of the drivers side 2 bolts, but have no idea how to get a wrench or socket or anything on the 2 nuts nearest the block. How has everyone taken care of this? I fumbled for 30 mins trying to get a wrench in there to no avail. HELP!
 
mne were 12 mm and its much easier just to pull the air assembley. for me anyways.
 
Yeah, it is a lot easier if you remove the air assembly. If I can remember off hand, you have to remove air assembly hoses and 2 wingnuts and a nut (over the carb) and remove the top cover of the air assembly. Then take out the air filter and 3 bolts holding down the air assembly. You may also need to loosen the HAI hose. I think a 6" long 12mm open/closed wrench was all I needed to remove the carb bolts. Don't forget to remove the bolt holding the metal fuel line going to the carb. Have fun!
 
12mm distrubtor wrench is the ticket.
 
After suffering through removing the carb with a standard Crapsman 12mm box/open wrench, I had that same wrench cut in half at the hardware store and used the new "shorty" 12mm open to install the new carb...well worth the approx. $15 total investment.
 
IIRC, the best thing i came up with was a 12mm crows-foot socket, which i had to grind down to get to the inner, most forward bolt.
hammer
NEW 1-12/" SHACKLE LIFT!!
BIG rust work on frame! ( post tot follow )
New exhast pinholes!!
 
Thanks for the ideas guys, I had detached the air cleaner assembly, and had the 12mm on there, but ZERO movement, I keep running into the fuel rail thing that's bolted to the block. However, making a cheap wrench a stubby by cutting it sounds like a good idea, or just buying a set of stubby wrenches.
 
If the air rail is really getting in your way that much then it is not too hard to take off. Just be careful to apply torque in the direction of the threads, because the fittings will break.

FYI, fuel rails don't exist on carburated engines. :D

:beer:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
If the air rail is really getting in your way that much then it is not too hard to take off. Just be careful to apply torque in the direction of the threads, because the fittings will break.

FYI, fuel rails don't exist on carburated engines. :D

:beer:

I didn't think they did, so I actually didn't know what it was, but to me it resembled a fuel rail. I didn't know there were air rails.
 
That's alright buddy. I was just busting your chops. :D

I'm glad that you're getting into cruisers.

BTW, why did you want to take off your carb? Cleaning?

:beer:
 
yah that damn air rail sucks. id wished i had a stubby. never thought of a 12 mm distributor wrench(thanks pimp) i ended up just getting it on an angle till they were to tight for that anymore and then just a hair a turn for a bit.
 
Well, the stubbies worked great and weren't pricey at all...although the Home Deport Flex head wratchet wrenches sure were tempting. But, $70 was a bit much for a temptation.

My 'Cruiser won't pass Utah County emissions, it's about 4x's over the limit for CO2, so I figured I needed to get a clean carb on there. I've heard Aisin carbs are touchy, and I didn't trust myself to clean in so I found www.carburetorexchange.com and traded mine for a nicely rebuilt model. However, 2 of the linkages on my old carb are not on the new one, and my new pickle is trying to move those over. Doh! I did get the carb off though, and that was half my headache cured.
 
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