How to read an accurate ATF level on A343F 100s

[KlausVanWinkle]

Anyone have advice for getting an accurate read of the A343F transmission's dip stick?
I read the other threads on this in the 100 and 80 section and did what they said to no avail.

Background:
I drained and refilled the pan a few weeks ago.
Then last weekend I did a full ATF exchange
I drained 12qts out and put 12 of Mobil1 D/M ATF back in.
The dip stick looked low so I added a qt.
I drove it to work (10miles) left it running in the parking deck and checked the level.
There was a smear of fluid down the entire side of the dip stick past the twist in it. But only a noticeable mark well below the cool notch.
So I added a quart. Shifted through all the gears then rechecked but couldn't get a consistent read. On the way home that night the transmission clunked hard a couple times after accelerating away from a stop I had to brake hard for.
I drove home today and same thing. I can't get a good read.

Analysis:
I'd think that I'm 2 qts over since I only took 12 out and have put 14 in now.

Question:
Is it possible that It's so full now that I can't get a good read? My plan is to drain 1.5qts and recheck. Sound right?

 

[Gottagetone]

Level surface, engine running, you should be able to see a clean line just like the oil dipstick. Are you sure the stick is going all the way in? Did you clean the filter when you dropped the pan?

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Level surface, engine running, you should be able to see a clean line just like the oil dipstick. Are you sure the stick is going all the way in? Did you clean the filter when you dropped the pan?

I didn't drop the pan. I just drained and refilled. Didn't want to deal with cleaning the gasket.

Yeah level surface.

I'm not seeing a clean straight line. Wondering if being overfilled would cause that.

 

[12guns]

I just did two drain and fills and got between 5-6 quarts out each time. I did drop the transmission pan and replaced the filter on mine and found that autozone carries a "kit" which is a new filter/screen and a rubber gasket. That's just in case you get the hankerin' to do another drain and fill and replace the RTV sealant with an actual gasket. You'll still have to clean the old material off, but it'll be nice in the future having a semi reuseable gasket.
Did you get 12 quarts out at once or 6 x 2 drain/fills?
I too have trouble reading the fluid level...I can say make sure the motor is warm and running. Wipe clean each time and even though it may take a couple tries, you should be able to get a clear reading. The dip stick tube is curved, so you will end up with fluid on one side waaay higher than it should be. Try flipping the dip stick over right when you pull it out and see if there is a more accurate reading. If all else fails, take it to local shop and I'm sure they will "read" the level for free (or at least they should). Good luck

 

[agaisin]

Background:
I drained and refilled the pan a few weeks ago.
Then last weekend I did a full ATF exchange
I drained 12qts out and put 12 of Mobil1 D/M ATF back in.
...

Just trying to understand what you've done to this point. When you say you drained and refilled the pan a few weeks ago, then last weekend you did a full ATF exchange...
1) a few weeks ago, was that a simple drain/refill? Or did you drop the pan? And how much did you drain/refill then?
2) last weekend you did a full ATF exchange. There are a few methods - What method did you use?
3) Your count of 12 qts - is that just from last weekend's full exchange? And how confident are you in your 12qts out measurement and in your 12qts in measurement?

Is it possible that during your first drain/refill you added more than you drained? In other words, instead of 12+2, maybe it's 12+3 for example?
Also, how accurate is your measurement of 12qts drained - is it possible you really only drained 11 or 11.5 but added a full 12 (+2)?
Also, is it possible that even if your drain/refill measurements were perfect, that you started with more than ~12qts (perhaps the last person to drain/refill overfilled a bit but not enough to cause any issue until combined with your current overages etc)...

I know some people are very adamant that the best approach is to refill exactly what you drained, but I think there's a reason the FSM doesn't tell you to do that, and instead it tells you to use the measurements on the dip stick (b/c who knows whether your starting amount was correct etc)...

Also, regarding the temperature, w/later model A750 there's a mode that you go into that tells you when your tranny reached the proper temperature so there's no question (if one follows the FSM). With A343F how can one be sure the tranny's at the right temperature? I ask b/c when I ran the procedure for mine with the A750 I was surprised at how I couldn't reach the correct temperature while idling in park, it took driving around to get the right temperature. I've seen some people say they use an IR gun on the pan.

Anyhow, sounds like you're on the right track to drain and get (back) to a point where you can see your level. Make sure dipstick is turned the right direction too.

Here's the key steps from the FSM:
"

3. Start engine and move gearshift lever through all positions. Place gearshift lever back into Park. Check
fluid level. Add fluid to bring level up to COOL mark on dipstick.
4. Recheck fluid level when engine and transmission reaches operating temperature of 158-176°F (70-80°C). Add fluid up to HOT mark on dipstick. See​

FLUID CAPACITIES .​

"

Good luck!

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Thanks. I did a simple drain and refill a few weeks ago and put whatever amount I took out back in. I was planning to do the full exchange but noticed that amazon sent me the wrong fluid. I only had 4 qts of the right stuff on hand.

I did the DIY fluid exchange where you drop the ATF line that comes from the radiator, turn the engine on and pump out 2 qts while you pour 2 qts in, turn off engine, repeat until the fluid coming out is the same color as what goes in. It's documented here https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/509458-a343f-fill-procedure.html

I'm confident in how much I drained and put back in. But it'd have to have been 1.5qts low to begin with to be at the right level now, which is unlikely. I'll see what happens after draining some and report back.

 

[agaisin]

Thanks. I did a simple drain and refill a few weeks ago and put whatever amount I took out back in. I was planning to do the full exchange but noticed that amazon sent me the wrong fluid. I only had 4 qts of the right stuff on hand.

I did the DIY fluid exchange where you drop the ATF line that comes from the radiator, turn the engine on and pump out 2 qts while you pour 2 qts in, turn off engine, repeat until the fluid coming out is the same color as what goes in. It's documented here https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/509458-a343f-fill-procedure.html

I'm confident in how much I drained and put back in. But it'd have to have been 1.5qts low to begin with to be at the right level now, which is unlikely. I'll see what happens after draining some and report back.

In your last post on the fluid exchange thread you referenced, if I understand correctly, you say that your atf fluid level was right at the cool line while your engine was hot (after 13 qts) but of course while hot it should be at the hot line not at the cool line (as described in the last step from the fsm to add fluid up to the hot mark), did you do that? your post is clear that you got to the cool mark, but there was no reference to getting to the hot mark. just trying to understand. of course how much is needed to go from cool line to hot line (and how much is too much) isn't clear but from the cool line it sounds like you added another qrt. so was that too much or just right...?

here's your last post from the other thread:
"
I did this a few days ago. Drove it for the first time today. It shifts much smoother now. I took out 12qts plus whatever spilled at the beginning. I put 13qts of Mobil1 D/M ATF (~$3ea at Target of all places) back in. and after driving to work today, the dip stick reads right at the cold notch. I'll add .25-.5qts when I get home and see how that does."

from the FSM:
"
3. Start engine and move gearshift lever through all positions. Place gearshift lever back into Park. Check
fluid level. Add fluid to bring level up to COOL mark on dipstick.
4. Recheck fluid level when engine and transmission reaches operating temperature of 158-176°F (70-80°C). Add fluid up to HOT mark on dipstick. See
FLUID CAPACITIES .