How to make it past 200K miles... (1 Viewer)

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My 2002 Tacoma just passed the 100K mark the other day. And I thought to myself, "I really need this thing to last at least another 100k." It's a prerunner with the V6. Completely stock, except for the deckplate mod with a K&N. I change the oil every 6000 or so using Mobil 1 synthetic. I drive this thing very kindly and I don't beat on it. Unless it deserves it. Aside from the regular fluid changes, what components should I be giving special attention to at this point in her life? How can I get at least another 100K out of her? Thank ya! And here's a picture after a mud bath.
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Congrats on getting it broken in at 100k, proper maint. is the key or the next 100k and beyond. Keep the tranny and diff fluid fresh it is cheap insurance, drive shaft lubed, plugs, and belts. I have gone through our Sequoia over the past year getting all fluids and belts swapped and have not thought twice about the 2 2500 miles trips we have taken it on this summer and it has run great.
 
Yes X 2 on keeping clean fuids and proper levels of them in your drivetrain being engine, tranny and rear diff.
Also if you haven't done so yet changing the powering steering fluid, the brake fluid and a coolant flush are things I like to do every 60,000 miles. Toyota recommends this more frequently but..your decision. Brake fluid sort of depends more if you are in a damp climate compared to dry.

The K&N..well this could spark a debate. I used to run these filters and now just use a factory filter. One way of shortening engine life is to suck in dirt and I felt safer with a normal pleated OEM filter. The other disadvantage is you are more likely to foul up your MAF sensor with an oiled filter which wouldn't help extend engine life running a dirty MAF sensor either I would think.

I recall test driving a nice little quad cab Tacoma and I was pretty much sold on it until I was looking around under the hood and found a cracked vacuum line. That was it for me..who knows how long this engine had been sucking in unfiltered air so keep an eye on vacuum line conditions as well.
Just like how you get a 3B over 400,000 miles... clean fluids, clean fuel and clean air.
I like keeping an eye on fluid levels as they tell you if you have a leak or a consumption. Keeping the correct level of clean fluids where they belong is key to a high miler in my mind. I also like to keep a close eye on my diff fluid if I have been out driving through mud/water holes or crossing creeks and streams just in case I manage to get water in the diffs.

A tune up every 100,000 miles likely is a good idea as well.

I also like to start up a cold vehicle and let it warm up a bit, go gentle on it when it's really cold outside to let things warm up as most wear usually happens on startup.
 
Thanks so much for the detailed info. I appreciate it. I've kept up well on the engine, tranny, and driveshaft, but haven't paid too much attention to the rear diff, power steering, and brake fluids. Or the coolant system. So I'll probably flush and refill the coolant system and differential ASAP, and do the brake and steering fluids as needed. Thanks again!
 
Have you replaced the timing belt? Aside from what the others have indicated, I like to make sure to update critical rubber pieces that look worn or cracked from heat and age - belts, heater hoses, and things that, if they fail, can leave you stranded somewhere.

Have you replaced the spark plugs?

And give her a bath. :)
 
Ditching the K&N would be the first thing I would do. At the very least run a pre-filter. Better yet get rid of it all together. They are a bad idea with a MAF or an engine you're trying to get longevity out of. I've run them. My pig has one. But I run them on engines I will rebuild or replace at some point. My Tundra does not and will not have one.

Probably be worth doing an oil analysis to see how 6000 mile oil changes are doing. I'm a proponent of 5-7K changes myself, but it really depends on a lot of different factors.

Timing belt and water pump if they haven't been done. Keep the cooling system up.

One of the biggest killers of a lot of vehicles isn't drive train - it's rust. Keep the body in good shape.
 
oh man how could I forget about rust and haven't seen rust like that since being in the 60 series forum all the time.
Wonder how the back half of that frame is?
Best part of a ride like that it is never a problem changing lanes! :)
 
Gumby said:
Ditching the K&N would be the first thing I would do. At the very least run a pre-filter. Better yet get rid of it all together. They are a bad idea with a MAF or an engine you're trying to get longevity out of. I've run them. My pig has one. But I run them on engines I will rebuild or replace at some point. My Tundra does not and will not have one.

Probably be worth doing an oil analysis to see how 6000 mile oil changes are doing. I'm a proponent of 5-7K changes myself, but it really depends on a lot of different factors.

Timing belt and water pump if they haven't been done. Keep the cooling system up.

One of the biggest killers of a lot of vehicles isn't drive train - it's rust. Keep the body in good shape.

Oh shoot, I thought I was adding life to my engine by running a K&N. What's the deal with that? Do they let more dirt by? Yes, I did the spark plugs at 70000. And I live in Southern California, so I don't think I'll be having any issues with rust. I've been running it on Mobil 1, so I think I'm safe with the 6000 mile change.

The timing belt. Ugh, is that an absolute beast to replace? And how many miles do you usually get out of them.

Thank ya
 
not sure how many miles or years a timing belt can go..best thing is your 3.4Litre isn't an interference engine so if it breaks at worst you call a tow truck and get it to a garage to fix..no new engine to buy.
Yes over the long haul I think a K&N will let more dirt through it than an OEM filter.
 
Don't forget to change the thermostat, i do mine every 50k. I also do a drain and refill on my tranny every 5k and I never have to flush it.
 

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