How to level an FZJ80 with OME lift kit

[twgreene]

Bought a triple locked 1994 FZJ80 in August of 2023 and had a reputable LC shop in Denver area install a 2.5-inch Slee lift kit with OME 2851 front springs and 2863 rear springs, in anticipation of a later rear bumper with two swing arms. I decided to wait on installing the rear bumper so I then bought, installed and ran a pair of OME 2860 rear springs for a year.

After deciding to pull a small 3500 lb. travel trailer, I reinstalled the 2863 springs in the rear, for the occasional 350 lb. trailer tongue weight. There is no plan now for a rear bumper with swing arms nor a front ARB bumper with a winch (had them on my 100 series for years). I'm actually thinking now that the OME 2860 rear springs would be more suitable for the occasional trailer pull, and a bit less likely for oversteer issues with an internal load and no trailer. Thoughts? (occasional = 3 or 4 times a year for 5 to 10 days, paved roads only)

In both cases though, the rear stood/stands higher than the front, by 1.0 to 1.5 inches, even with the car loaded and the trailer hooked up, and I'd like it to sit level, mostly for looks. Will leveling the car front to rear negate the OMECA77B caster bushings that were installed? Is there a way to level the car that doesn't impact the steering geometry any more than exists now? Is there a solution that "looks good", "works well", and "lasts a long time"?

I'm running 33" BFG tires (32.8") and I recently had the high and low gears in the transfer case reduced creating about a 4.54:1 high gear ratio and about a 3:1 low gear ratio. The 80 seems to pull the trailer fairly well, even here where I live at 7,000 feet. (It's still slow, but then, so am I)

Thanks for any suggestions you might have,

Terry

 

[efjayatee]

Usually under 3" (different from rigs to rigs) no need caster corrections. For me i had all dobinson under 3" of lift and no need for casters to be corrected.
I would get it measured at an alignment shop so you know where you at. To get rid of the stink bug look, use 20 or 30mm coil spacers (pucks) in the fronts.
Avoid caster bushings....they spin on you and and you lose that caster correction position. Either do caster plates or Delta/Trail Taylor radius arms instead. Also a rear panhard bracket will level out the panhard with either LCP or Landtank sway bay brackets. This will improve your ride from having your rear end "darting" when driving due to lifts.

Other option is to add air bags in the rear for pulling trailer or heavy loads.


I'm running Delta 3 (regular) radius arms and 3" panhard bracket and whiteline rear swaybars:

2.5" lift with 15mm pucks in front and 20mm in the rear

I have since swap out my coils with Terrain Tamers and I'm just over 3" of lift in front and 3.5 in tears. No pucks
Full spare on the swingout and 2 jerrycans-no sagging/swat when loaded for camping.

 

[cts]

The 860 springs would be much better for what you're describing than the 863s. And since you already have them, start by putting them back in! I prefer a little rake w/ the rear ~0.5-0.75" higher than the front, and it's especially beneficial if you're going to tow. But if you have more rake than you want after putting the medium load rear springs back in, then add spacers up front. The 10mm ARB trim packers are a really cheap way to fine tune the height. Adding spacers up front will reduce caster, but 10mm would be pretty negligible (<0.5 degrees.)

If you don't want to lift the front at all and want a level stance, then you'll need to buy different rear springs, as the 860s will still have some rake on your setup.

 

[TX80CC]

OME stock height lift with 10mm spacer up front put mine level with the rear.

 

[twgreene]

Hey everyone, thanks very much for your responses. I'm putting the 2860s back on the rear and 10mm spacers in the front. Would have responded sooner but the seasonal flu caught up with me.