I’ve been shopping for a 200 series for some time now and have been told rust is their kryptonite. I’ve seen how to treat it but is it best to just avoid and hold out hoping for completely rust free? This is a 2008 with 170k miles
How much rust is too much when shopping? (1 Viewer)
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That ain’t nothing in my opinion. I’m also in the northeast so take that with a grain of salt (yes, pun intended 
). Just know that there’s probably more rust in hidden places.
If I was in a non-salt state like you though, I’d probably keep looking unless of course this one is a great deal. There should be some rust-free 200s down there though I would think.
). Just know that there’s probably more rust in hidden places. If I was in a non-salt state like you though, I’d probably keep looking unless of course this one is a great deal. There should be some rust-free 200s down there though I would think.
Doesn’t look that bad to me. How is the pricing?
In terms of the frame, as long as rust isn’t structural it can be dealt with (various methods of removal, like wire brushing, followed by repainting). And then you can use a preservative like Fluid Film, Wool Wax or Cosmoline to keep future rust at bay.
The problem is going to be components and nuts and bolts that have rusted up and seized. What does the KDSS valve look like on that truck, for example? These are the items that cause headaches and either make your personal maintenance jobs longer or your paid maintenance jobs more expensive.
I’ll also add that unless you are buying the truck from a desert climate with no humidity you are going to get rust over 17 years, road salt or no. And there is more variation in coastal states - a truck that lived 17 years in Key West will look a hell of a lot different than a truck that lived 17 years in Orlando.
In terms of the frame, as long as rust isn’t structural it can be dealt with (various methods of removal, like wire brushing, followed by repainting). And then you can use a preservative like Fluid Film, Wool Wax or Cosmoline to keep future rust at bay.
The problem is going to be components and nuts and bolts that have rusted up and seized. What does the KDSS valve look like on that truck, for example? These are the items that cause headaches and either make your personal maintenance jobs longer or your paid maintenance jobs more expensive.
I’ll also add that unless you are buying the truck from a desert climate with no humidity you are going to get rust over 17 years, road salt or no. And there is more variation in coastal states - a truck that lived 17 years in Key West will look a hell of a lot different than a truck that lived 17 years in Orlando.
Yeah that's pretty minimal for 170K miles. From the pictures you have it seems to be just surface rust on the welds. The skid plates look to be in great shape (if they haven't been replaced) along with things like the AHC guards.
If you are at all worried that that is too much rust for a vehicle that is 15+ years old best to pay the premium/wait for one from somewhere in the Southwest or rust free area.
If you are at all worried that that is too much rust for a vehicle that is 15+ years old best to pay the premium/wait for one from somewhere in the Southwest or rust free area.
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It’s priced at $19k
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Sounds like unless there’s some hidden areas the dealer isn’t showing me, there’s nothing to run from. Thanks for all your quick responses.
If you can check the KDSS valves that would be good. They can be super rusted over even in clean trucks, and you need to be able to crack the bolts if you are doing any suspension work on the car. Big $$ to fix if the valve is seized completely.
There is a black metal shield that partially covers the bolts. Look midway under the driver’s side of the vehicle.
If it’s a Toyota dealer ask them to crack the bolts for you (no more than 3 rotations, which they should know). If it’s a third party dealer they most likely won’t want to touch it.
I’d also check that the spare tire is functioning as intended and doesn’t have a rusted mechanism, which happens.
There is a black metal shield that partially covers the bolts. Look midway under the driver’s side of the vehicle.
If it’s a Toyota dealer ask them to crack the bolts for you (no more than 3 rotations, which they should know). If it’s a third party dealer they most likely won’t want to touch it.
I’d also check that the spare tire is functioning as intended and doesn’t have a rusted mechanism, which happens.
No KDSS. It’s a LX.
I am an idiot sandwich who reads too fast. Ignore me.
No worse than my 2017 from NJ, we call that mint around these parts.
Not sure what the prep/paint procedure Toyota uses is, but the welds always seem to rust first.
Not sure what the prep/paint procedure Toyota uses is, but the welds always seem to rust first.
I want to do more research into this, but the welds almost look bronze/copper in many places. I don’t think it’s surface rust at the outset, but perhaps something from the welding process itself? It does seem like the paint has a hard time adhering to whatever that bronze stuff is, which is why the welds seem to rust.
