How leaky is too leaky?

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Perhaps a long shot, but...

Not sure about the 3F, but on the 2F there's an engine block drain toward the rear of the block on the driver's side. (Gonna try to post a pic but no promises).

If it's there and is failing, it could squirt or seap coolant while underway or at rest, respectively. If it's not there, then like I said not sure about the 3F. :o
3F.gif
 
let's back up a bit before you get too crazy with major repairs, etc... and let's take a look at some basic places to start looking before you get into cracked heads, head gaskets, et all:

(1) since you've already noticed an effect on your cooling system with the hose change, and you obviously had (or still have) a coolant leak, get under the hood and then under the truck and visually inspect all of the coolant hoses for cracks, brittleness, etc. and physically tighten any hose clamp that may or may not need to be retightened. If you had one bad hose already, it would be a good idea to just replace all of them complete with new hose clamps. It would also be a good time to replace the thermostat while the system is empty. They are inexpensive and go a long way towards preventing breakdown. Flush your radiator and engine block at the same time and then refill cooling system with new coolant.

(2) Look for leaking gaskets on your thermostat and water pump. There are two BVSV (bi-metal vacuum switch valves) that also tap into your cooling system. Visually inspect for leaks here as well.

(3) While the coolant on your block may be caused by the major issues outlined in the previous replies, keep in mind that the fan will blow back any leaking fluids along the block causing them to collect and show in various places too. If one of your major cooling hoses was leaking significantly, the fan would have pushed the coolant back onto the block. It's just too hard to tell from your pic exactly where the coolant is coming from, so start with the easy stuff then work into the head gaskets/cracked head/compression test/etc...

(4) Drop your front skid plate and examine the area around the bottom of the radiator. Check for leaks eminating from the bottom of the radiator, where it mounts with the frame.

(5) From your pics, it looks like you may just have coolant on your block and not oil as well. Wouldn't hurt to tighten the bolts on your oil pan while you're down there for good measure.

(6) When you've everything tightened, replaced, inspected, etc... try and wipe off as much of the gunk/coolant/oil on the block and surrounding area, clean it as much as possible, and then drive it for a bit and then visually inspect again. Chances are good that if the leak wasn't found in the first go-around, the "cleaned" block will show you where the leak is possibly coming from.

HTH,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60
 
I just helped xrock pull his 3F-E this weekend. No block drain on his, but work seems to have
been done on his engine by a PO, so I can't tell for sure.
Having that block drain would've made life easier. :D
 
Ulgh, Saturday wasn't Stella day after all. We ended up car shopping all day. Traded in the Harley and the ol Dodge Pickup for a 2003 Mitsu Eclipse.

Plus it's been dumping down rain for the past 24 hours. However, I did drive the Cruiser for about 40 miles yesterday, and she ran like a champ. Once things dry out some, we'll have another look-see.

Oh and the oil and coolant levels / composition look super. We at least got that peeped at on Friday night.
 
(4) Drop your front skid plate and examine the area around the bottom of the radiator. Check for leaks eminating from the bottom of the radiator, where it mounts with the frame.


I had a minor leak from a loose radiator plug. A few twists and it was ready to go!
 
all cruisers have a block drain, on a inline 6 its on the driverside toward the rear of the block.

hj60 said:
I just helped xrock pull his 3F-E this weekend. No block drain on his, but work seems to have
been done on his engine by a PO, so I can't tell for sure.
Having that block drain would've made life easier. :D
 
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