How good is the 1st gen Tundra factory LSD? (1 Viewer)

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I've got a 2005 sequoia with open rear diff. I was originally planning on doing a lunchbox locker in the back and living with the noise/driveability quirks. Now I have a line on a Tundra LSD for cheaper than a powertrax no slip.

Right now me sequoia is stock aside from worn 265/75/16 K02s. My proposed build is very simplistic and budget minded. 2" lift, skinny 33's, winch.

I'm not really finding myself with one wheel totally off the ground, just in loose terrain where power ends up at one rear wheel. Traction control is a little too intrusive to actually help me out. The install seems similar of each. Both require removing the 3rd member and ring gear. I'd just swap my 4.10 ring onto the tundra diff. Then make sure preload and backlash are within spec. Would the factory LSD from a tundra be a worthwhile upgrade?
 
Well answered my own question I guess.


The factory LSD uses clutches. Buying a used unit sight unseen, I no idea what shape the clutches are in. I can't find just the clutch packs easily in the event it needs a rebuild.

So I decided to go with the powertrax lock right. It's cheaper, I know it'll lock when needed. Most of my trail adventures don't involve super tight turns, just a lot of loose gravel/sand and rock shelves. I think having a fully locked diff will be better for what I do.
 
Well answered my own question I guess.


The factory LSD uses clutches. Buying a used unit sight unseen, I no idea what shape the clutches are in. I can't find just the clutch packs easily in the event it needs a rebuild.

So I decided to go with the powertrax lock right. It's cheaper, I know it'll lock when needed. Most of my trail adventures don't involve super tight turns, just a lot of loose gravel/sand and rock shelves. I think having a fully locked diff will be better for what I do.


the NON-OEM part requiring you to re-set ring and pinion concerns me enough to say something ?

why not simply get a pre-owned one , form a junk yard that offers a warranty ?

if its broken they will replace it for you at no cost , typical is a 30 day it runs good stated written warranty


do u know how many 1st gen factory limited slip diff's are out there ?

Millions and alot too !



here is my 2005 UCK41 W/ Factory LSD parts diagram , :)



1658143127524.jpeg
 
I was under the impression the LSD wasn't common. There aren't many yards around me, closest one is 3+ hours away (one way). I guess you can test if it's still good by disconnecting the driveshaft or putting it in neutral, holding one wheel/axle stationary, and using a torque wrench on the other side. I read one place the stock LSD is 200 ft lbs breakaway which seems high, haven't been able to validate that. But this one I had a line on was just the third member, so I didn't have a way to test it.

I did find the clutch part numbers. 7 x clutch plates (41385-35010), mk4 supra clutches may also work from what I read.

There are no 4.10 LSD's I'm aware of (at least in the Tundra) so I'd be unbolting the caps, pulling it out, and removing the ring either way. Since the lunchbox keeps the same carrier, most likely it'll come apart and go back together still in spec as long as everything goes where it came from.

But in the theme of keeping this a bare bones budget build, I think the lock right rear locker will work just fine and be more off road capable than the LSD.
 
I would run the oe lsd before any lunchbox
Seconded, & Mango, Matt's got a point, there are tons of these winding up in yards these days. (lazy on timing belts, etc.) & If You know Your way around rr's (& it reads like You know exactly what You want & how to get there), I'd spring for the used 1, buy the clutches, drive it for the warranty period offered by yard, then put new clutches in when needed? Sometimes Aftermarket is 'better', w/specialized improvements, but rarely ever (or is it nearly never?) is less expensive than OEM used, excellent condition, when applicable crossover will work? ;)
 

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