How bad is this rust? (1 Viewer)

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The M416 is a better trailer in my opinion anyway. I admit I have no justification for that, but I love mine.

Id have to disagree with you there. While this is a great looking trailer and i would buy it in a heart beat (assuming price is inline) The m101s are better trailers.

The trailer pictured here is a m416

The m101s are much more re-enforced especially in the tub. The m101 has a standard 3500# axle so swaping parts is easy, change the hubs brakes bearings ect...

The m101s are newer and saw little to no use to short from checking the grease in the hubs your good to go. Ive personally never seen a m101 with a rust hole. Mind you they are a bit rust (durface rust) they are all solid.

All that said the 416 your looking at looks like a great trailer and would make an excelent start for any build. :beer:
 
Id have to disagree with you there. While this is a great looking trailer and i would buy it in a heart beat (assuming price is inline) The m101s are better trailers.

The trailer pictured here is a m416

The m101s are much more re-enforced especially in the tub. The m101 has a standard 3500# axle so swaping parts is easy, change the hubs brakes bearings ect...

The m101s are newer and saw little to no use to short from checking the grease in the hubs your good to go. Ive personally never seen a m101 with a rust hole. Mind you they are a bit rust (durface rust) they are all solid.

All that said the 416 your looking at looks like a great trailer and would make an excelent start for any build. :beer:

True but in that case you're comparing apples to oranges. The inferior design is due to the fact that the 101's are significantly newer than the 416's. Mine, for example, is a 1967 where the 101's are all 20+ years newer. The later 416's had axles where one could swap the hubs to 6 stud models. In either case, neither trailer came stock with 6 stud axles and I don't think any of us load them up to 3500# anyway.

Either way, the M416 in this thread is gorgeous and is definitely a good buy.:cheers:
 
True but in that case you're comparing apples to oranges. The inferior design is due to the fact that the 101's are significantly newer than the 416's. Mine, for example, is a 1967 where the 101's are all 20+ years newer. The later 416's had axles where one could swap the hubs to 6 stud models. In either case, neither trailer came stock with 6 stud axles and I don't think any of us load them up to 3500# anyway.

Either way, the M416 in this thread is gorgeous and is definitely a good buy.:cheers:

Sorry about disappearing for a few days. I was on a biz tri pand was too darn tired to check in.

Well got the trailer, looks just like the pictures, so all is good.

I have been brainstorming ideas since then.

I think the first thing to be done, is make the tailgate.

Then I am going to get it sandblasted, then primer and then, if possible, painted to match my 200 series. Now THAT would be great.

After adding jerry can holders, propane shelf, etc. I found a place online that makes those old fashion Toyota tailgate decals. I am going to get one for it. Then maybe a LC tag for the sides of the trailer.

I will be upgrading the bolt pattern of 5 x 112 to match my LC at 5 x 120. Then get two of my old OEM rims painted black then out some Nitto Terra Grapplers on them.

Also going to Rhino Line or Line X the bed also.

What have you others done with the braking system on the trailer? Anyone know how and when it works? Does it work off of the hitch and activate when I use my LC brakes?

Thanks for all the help above!
 
Why do you want a braking system? The trailer is light enough to use fully loaded on a 60 without brakes.:meh: It's only rated for 1/4 ton, and even with 1/2 ton in it that's not that much weight.
 
Why do you want a braking system? The trailer is light enough to use fully loaded on a 60 without brakes.:meh: It's only rated for 1/4 ton, and even with 1/2 ton in it that's not that much weight.

I guess I should have worded my question differently.

I was meaning more this:

Is anyone using the braking system, why and how.

You answered all three questions in your above comments. ;)
 
Now if you mean the hand brake that comes with the trailer, that can be very handy. It's great for keeping it still on an incline. Other than that, my opinion is that it's not necessary but others might feel differently.
 
I installed electric brakes on my m101 and cant say enough good things about them. Even though these trailers are small it doesnt mean there not heavy. and empty m416 or m101 is about 750lbs, load a tent and a topper, gas cans, water, food , gear, extra tools. ect... you can get up there in weight 2500lbs or more. In an emergency stop or high way speeds having trailer brakes allows you to stop when you want and with out that "oh crap" feeling not to mention its just being safe. Also helps in off road situations where your off camber ect.. I can manually lock the trailer brakes up from my the cab of my truck which makes coming off of ledges that much easier. You can get away with out them but if your switching your bolt patter anyways why not spend the extra 90 bucks and get a set? you can also get electric brakes and still retain your manual ebrake as well (which i recommend) there a bit more but worth it.
 
I installed electric brakes on my m101 and cant say enough good things about them. Even though these trailers are small it doesnt mean there not heavy. and empty m416 or m101 is about 750lbs, load a tent and a topper, gas cans, water, food , gear, extra tools. ect... you can get up there in weight 2500lbs or more. In an emergency stop or high way speeds having trailer brakes allows you to stop when you want and with out that "oh crap" feeling not to mention its just being safe. Also helps in off road situations where your off camber ect.. I can manually lock the trailer brakes up from my the cab of my truck which makes coming off of ledges that much easier. You can get away with out them but if your switching your bolt patter anyways why not spend the extra 90 bucks and get a set? you can also get electric brakes and still retain your manual ebrake as well (which i recommend) there a bit more but worth it.

You have really loaded up your 101 with 1750 lbs of stuff? Nuts man. I don't plan on doing the whole expedition thing with mine ( yet ) but that seems like a lot of excess weight. Your 101 with the lid and everything can't weight 2000, does it?

Do you run a circular light plug with provisions for the brakes?
 
You have really loaded up your 101 with 1750 lbs of stuff? Nuts man. I don't plan on doing the whole expedition thing with mine ( yet ) but that seems like a lot of excess weight. Your 101 with the lid and everything can't weight 2000, does it?

Do you run a circular light plug with provisions for the brakes?

I dont load my trailer up that much every time but knowing i can (and on occasion have) its nice to not have to worry about it. We were pushing 2000#s in sept when we drove from canada down to arizona, through colorado and back to canada. We had a 30 gallon water tank, gas cans, food, cloaths the roof top tnt ect

at high way speeds i would just cruise at 65-75 and never have to worry about slamming on the brakes ect..

I wired the truck with the 7 pin round plug which also allows you to charge a battery on your trailer from your truck (woohoo) so it makes sense also
:beer:
 
To keep this on track to help out dtt255, how did you wire up the brake controller and 7 pin plug? I know the 5 wires for lights but where did the other two get routed?

I don't know if 200 series come factory pre-wired with a 7 pin plug, so this might not help much :meh:
 
To keep this on track to help out dtt255, how did you wire up the brake controller and 7 pin plug? I know the 5 wires for lights but where did the other two get routed?

I don't know if 200 series come factory pre-wired with a 7 pin plug, so this might not help much :meh:

It does come with a plug......but not sure if it is 7. I will check and get back to you.
 
It does come with a plug......but not sure if it is 7. I will check and get back to you.

Im more then willing to bet its a flat 4 pin if it has a plug. quick run to napa and you can get the converter for the 7 pin. the brake controller you get will have the instuctions is really quite strait forward even for some one not to familier with wiring. most time consuming part is the hiding of the wires. then the center pin on the plug is strait to the battery (fused of course) and your good to go every time your hooked up it will charge your batterys.
 
FYI It is a 7 pin.
 

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