Hot water problem/question

[Trunk Monkey]

Seem's like there's many who are wise about plumbing on the board. The hot water pressure in my house has been steadily decreasing. I'm guessing it's time to replace the water heater (it's 9 years old and a crappy model). It's the same on all the faucets, incoming cold water is fine, great pressure.

Any help? Thanks much.

 

[archie]

before replacing, try banging the hot water heater around while flushing out the system at the valve near the bottom of the tank. This mightl loosen and flush some of the rust that might be blocking the flow. Maybe this will buy you some time to shop for a good deal on a new water heater and get a good plumber to put it in for you.

 

[74fjsemistock]

Odds are that puppy is loaded up with calcium an other mineral deposits. If your lucky you may be able to hook a hose on the drain bib and get some of it out,probably not enough to do any good.More than likely you wont even be able to get the thing empty of water. I say remove that puppy with a dolly and insttall a new unit.I always reccomend to my clients that they drain/flush the unit when they have to change their clocks,,,Spring/Fall. Some units are so-called self cleaning.That just means they stir your drink for you. As far as banging the unit around....Please have someone with a video camera get a close up of the cold supply line... this could be good when one qf those joints let go...Good luck with it!

 

[el_diabolico]

DON"T bang on it. HEre is how to clean a hot water heater.

1. Shut off the main valve at the top of the tank.

2. Relieve the pressure through the PRV.

3. Remove the inlet flex tubing on the cold water side, up top.

4. Using a funnel, pour a gallon of white vinegar, or a large container of CLR etc.

5. Wrap teflon tape around the threads on the inlet, and reinstall cold water inlet flex tubing.

6. Connect a heavy duty hose to the hose bib connection at the bottom of the tank.

7. Wait about 20 minutes, then open the hose bib connection.

8. After about 10 minutes, open the cold water inlet valve.

9. Flush in this manner until all calcium carbonate deposits are gone and/or you can no longer smell the vinegar.


This maintenance should be done on average once a year. If you live in an area of hard water, once every six months should do it. If after flushing the heater out doesn't improve your volume of hot water, odds are it's time to replce the heater if it's gas, or the elements if it's electric. Hope this helps.


From an Arizona Certified Grade IV Water Distribution Operator.

 

[archie]

I say it better to see the joints go when you are around than when you are away! Both ways, if the joints are gonna break sooner or later if they are that corroded. Just have a good plumber's number ready or know where the cut off valve is located. BTW make sure the cut off valve turns before you start shakin cos sometimes they are rusted permanently open. Post pics of the swimming pool in your basement later.

 

[archie]

You shouldn't really bang on it. I shook mine!

 

[Rich]

Well, no doubt there is a restriction in the hot water supply. If you have steel galvanized piping, then it is likely time to repipe you house. The hot water lines always go first, but the cold supplies fail also.

If your piping is copper or plastic, then the problem would more likely be specific to the water heater. Do make sure the in and out water valves on the heater are fully open.

If it has had, as is typical, no preventive maintenance, then after 9 years, it is likely due to be replaced anyway. There are two things that can be done to greatly extend the life of a water heater. One is to on a regular basis flush out the deposits that collect on the bottom. The other is to replace the anode every 4 years or so. The anode is what prevents the heater from corroding. The anode corrodes instead. After it has mostly corroded after 5 years or so, then the tank starts to go. Both of these tasks need to be done to be worthwile.

Most folks never do anything to extend the life of their water heaters, and replace them whenever they start to leak, which is often not much longer than the warranty period. The manufacturers know how long the anodes will last.

 

[archie]

if you got a pressure problem your tank might be too far gone to justify spending the time cleaning it. If you disconnect your cold water intake for cleaning your almost closer to replacing the whole unit by disconnecting the hot water output,gas line and exhaust vent. The only imminent danger you might get by shaking it very hard is accidentally disconnecting the exhaust vent and get carbon monoxide poisoning. If you got a natural gas leak, you'll smell it. I am talking from a limited experience on working on houses so I could be wrong.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Thanks for all the input. I'm guessing that the PO of the house had never done anything to it, we've been here two years and haven't either. I've cracked the drain and release valves open, don't really see any sediment coming out. We have copper pipes, so there should be no problem there.

Looks like replacing it will be next weekend's project. I'd feel better doing that than have the bottom eventually drop out and flood the place. I'll also add some regular maintenace to the to do list with the new one.

Thanks again.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Just a quick follow up on this if anyone else has the problem. Pulled the old heater out tonight. Cold water inlet was very rusty and flaking, hot water outlet looked to be sealed shut with crud. I drained the tank and didn't get too much sediment out, looks like it's just sticking to the top of the tank and the outlet.

Got the new 50 gal. going in tomorrow.