Hoodliner revisited

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Spook50

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Spokane, WA
Well after having my Dynamat hoodliner installed for a while, I've gotta say it's NIIIIICE. No difference in sound when at idle or low speed driving, but when I'm on the highway, it's much quieter than it was before. Also, after driving 300 miles to come home last Saturday, my hood was still just barely warm to the touch after the drive. Definately worth the money. It doesn't look pretty, but it works and that's all I care about.

On a side note, for some reason (I don't see how it's possible) my engine seems to run cooler now. With the factory hoodliner, the needle stayed just below the third line on the temp gauge, and now it barely rises above the second line. It'll hold heat longer when I shut down the engine, but it also warms up quicker too. How the hell is it possible that the engine would run cooler with a hoodliner that reflects heat back to the engine???
 
there is probably some thermodynamics equations for it and since i haven't taken that class yet i will just guess here in a few minutes.

lunyou
 
Spook, I'm curious as to why you installed this hoodliner in the first place. Did you just need a new one and not want to go with the OEM, or was it another reason?

Thanks.
 
WagonsRule said:
Spook, I'm curious as to why you installed this hoodliner in the first place. Did you just need a new one and not want to go with the OEM, or was it another reason?

Thanks.

The original was starting to get a bit torn up, and I mainly wanted the Dynamat hoodliner for its sound absorption qualities. It doesn't look as clean as the factory hoodliner (due to not being large enough to cover the entire hood, and not having the custom made appearance), but for function, it works way better.
 
Did you remove the hood to install the dynamat? I'm considering doing the same thing with a similar product, and it looks to me like it would be easy to install with the hood off and difficult with the hood on.
 
Spook50 said:
The original was starting to get a bit torn up, and I mainly wanted the Dynamat hoodliner for its sound absorption qualities. It doesn't look as clean as the factory hoodliner (due to not being large enough to cover the entire hood, and not having the custom made appearance), but for function, it works way better.

Right on, thanks. I could use a new hood liner in my 60. Maybe I'll try the Dynamat.
 
CSA said:
Did you remove the hood to install the dynamat? I'm considering doing the same thing with a similar product, and it looks to me like it would be easy to install with the hood off and difficult with the hood on.

You could do it with the hood on, but removing it and laying it flat on a thick blanket would make it much easier. I also pulled me off so I could give it a thorough cleaning, re-epoxy the stivvener onto the sheet metal, then filled the stiffener with Great Stuff foam. After that cured and seeped through the holes I was able to just breack the extra chunks off, leaving just what was inside and some messiness around the holes. I have yet to find a solvent that'll pull the dry stuff off. The hood feels ince and solit though. Like something on a new car would feel.
 
Spook50 said:
You could do it with the hood on, but removing it and laying it flat on a thick blanket would make it much easier. I also pulled me off so I could give it a thorough cleaning, re-epoxy the stivvener onto the sheet metal, then filled the stiffener with Great Stuff foam. After that cured and seeped through the holes I was able to just breack the extra chunks off, leaving just what was inside and some messiness around the holes. I have yet to find a solvent that'll pull the dry stuff off. The hood feels ince and solit though. Like something on a new car would feel.

Thanks, that's what I figured. Is removing and replacing the hood a two person job or could one person do it without a helper?
 
CSA said:
Thanks, that's what I figured. Is removing and replacing the hood a two person job or could one person do it without a helper?

Most definately a two-man job, just due to the size of the hood. You don't want to bang it around on anything while trying to manhandle it.
 
Can you post the dynamat part number on the hoodliner. Is it all one piece or does it come in sections? I have a bunch of dynamat xtreme panels I was going to use for my doors and rear cargo. Is the hoodliner you used similar...foil w/ the tacky black gunk for adhesion?
 
How did you reepoxy the strengtheners on?
 
jmarsh1977 said:
Can you post the dynamat part number on the hoodliner. Is it all one piece or does it come in sections? I have a bunch of dynamat xtreme panels I was going to use for my doors and rear cargo. Is the hoodliner you used similar...foil w/ the tacky black gunk for adhesion?

Can't remember the part number for the hoodliner, but it comes in one large sheet and I only had to trim a couple inches off one end for it to fit. Before putting that on, I used the last of the Dynamat Xtreme on the sheet metal areas between stiffener sections just to help it feel a touch more solid. The hoodliner is sort of similar to the Xtreme, but instead of the heavy tar, it's a dense tar-like foam that's about 3/4" thick with heavy duty foil over it. It sticks on there GOOD too. Just like the Extrme.

Mace, where there was still body filler that had just broken in two, I used Liquid Nails #3 epoxy to adhere the pieces back together. After letting it cure for a few hours with a heavy plastic toolbox sitting on it to weigh it down (the hood was lying flat BTW), I filled the stiffener with the expanding foam. That foam stuff sticks GOOD when it's cured. I don't think I'll ever have problems with the stiffener coming off again.

On another note concerning my engine mysteriously running cooler since I put the hoodliner on, I noticed that the fan clutch is locked damn near all the time now because of the radiant engine heat being reflected back down from the hoodliner. It's suckin up my horsepower bad and putting a big gouge in my mileage as well. I'll be getting that second battery in and converting to an electric fan ASAP upon return from my deployment.
 
repack the fan clutch first, I bet that will solve your issues.

I am not a huge fan of electric fans..

On the expanding foam thing. I know people who thought it would be a good idea to weatherize thir 40's with that stuff. And basically, it trapped enough moisture wherever they put it that the rig rusted out a LOT faster than it should have..

Just a FYI..

Thanks
 
ditto on the moisture trap with the expanding foam - I've seen it and it's not pretty

great for homes, bad for cars

-db-
 
ditto, ditto

on the foam: it is very similar to the expanding foam that is used to 'float your boat'. most of these foams (even those claimed to be closed cell) hold water like a sponge. the inside layer of older boston whalers is made out of this stuff and can ruin those boats. my brother had to lean his whaler up against a wall for almost a year and drill holes in the transom to let the water in his foam drain out after it had penetrated thru cracks in the fiberglass floor.

i would be somewhat concerned about having it in the hood or firewall area since most foams are flammable and some have a lower flash points than paper. the way i think spook did it (inside the stiffeners in the hood) doesn't bother me as much as an area where flammability would be more of an issue or, one that could hold water (like the floorboard, bottoms of the doors or the quarter panels). also, since some solvents will melt this stuff i would not put it anywhere around gas unless it specifically stated somewhere on the can or product information that it was solvent resistant.
 
srplus said:
...since some solvents will melt this stuff i would not put it anywhere around gas unless it specifically stated somewhere on the can or product information that it was solvent resistant.

This stuff is definately solvent resistant. Nothing I've tried yet will get the cured stuff off of the exposed areas of the hood (been trying to clean it up a bit so it wouldn't look so messy). Though I haven't tried gasoline yet. Been a little leary of a chemical reaction to be honest...

As far as the moisture trap goes, I though of that when I put it on, so I made absolutely sure eveything was clean and dry as possible before putting it in. I'll be watching it and if I see even a hint of rust of any kind I'll look closer and see if it's bad.
 
Carpe Discus said:
Generally this stuff says "cured foam must be mechanically removed". So don't count on it melting with anything.

Exactly :doh:

I'll probably try a very high grit flapper wheel next
 

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