Hood lock installation tips

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Joined
Nov 4, 2005
Threads
14
Messages
218
Location
Maine
Recently had my hood lock fail and searched for a thread on how to replace to no avail. Maybe someone's written something up but I will share how I did the replacement. It failed due to one of the springs inside rusting, breaking off its mount. I thought it would of been simple just to drop the old lock out and put the new one in without much hassle, but didn't go that way. Warning you will see some rust on this 298k mile 2008. Those who are squeamish should look away.

You basically have to get the metal cover off, that the lock comes through. Tools I used were 10 and 12mm sockets, and a pair of plyers.

IMG_4909.JPG
plate to come off

IMG_4905.JPG
new lock - Part No. 53510-60270. There are two bolts, one on each side (one under my thumb), and a lower bolt holding the lock in place. The lower nut has a black plastic cover over it, pry that off and you get to the nut.

There are several bolts attaching this cover plate. Also the horns need to be disconnected and a tip is to also remove the right transmission cooler top bolt, and loosen the left one, as you will need to pry back the mount to get the plate off due to the hook. See pic below

IMG_4914.JPG


IMG_4911.JPG

I used plyers to pinch these black plastic mounting clips, on the wire harness, to disconnect from the cover plate. You can see that there is a black plastic tray underneath the lock. Once I got to this point I thought I might of been able to just disconnect the tray and drop from below, without taking cover plate off, but I believe it still would of been tight working in there.

That black tray is connected with self-taping screws. You should reconnect that tray to the cover plate before putting cover plate fully on, it will be easier to line up the tray and screws. I did not do this and it was a pain to get it lined up after wards.

You can see the hood cable snaking in from the right. It's pretty intuitive how that disconnects from the old lock and reconnects.

Once that's done just reverse the process and mount everything back. Keep track of your bolts when you take it apart and it will be easier.

I've seen vidoes of other lock replacements where they tell you to make a mark where the old lock mounts, so it alligns when you put it back together. I did not do that, and it appears you really don't need to on this, as the cover plate and lock really don't have any room to wiggle side to side once bolted back. She shut perfect.

This failed the day I was detailing the truck so my son could take it to prom. Also the battery failed that morning too, as wife had been listening to music for a half hour or so (battery was on the way out it appears). Got a new battery but had to wait on the hood latch, but my son still wanted to take it.

IMG_7300.jpg


Cheers.
 
Nice looking truck. Do you have any recommendations for preventing that spring from breaking? Is the spring accessible for grease?
 
You might be able to spray some grease / rust preventative through the openings. Can’t get your finger in there.
 
Hi,
Is there a wire and plug that connects into the locking mechanism? It looks like it comes off the main wiring bundle in your pic. I am asking because I have a 200 series with an alarm that will occasionally go off in the middle of the night. I THINK it might be a hood locking sensor that sets it off as my door sensors look fine. After looking at my latch assembly, I want to make sure there is some sort of electrical connection there before disassembling and replacing. I know other Toyota models have the issue, but the replacement looks much simpler than ours.
Thanks,
Adam
 
Recently had my hood lock fail and searched for a thread on how to replace to no avail. Maybe someone's written something up but I will share how I did the replacement. It failed due to one of the springs inside rusting, breaking off its mount. I thought it would of been simple just to drop the old lock out and put the new one in without much hassle, but didn't go that way. Warning you will see some rust on this 298k mile 2008. Those who are squeamish should look away.

You basically have to get the metal cover off, that the lock comes through. Tools I used were 10 and 12mm sockets, and a pair of plyers.

View attachment 3625091 plate to come off

View attachment 3625093 new lock - Part No. 53510-60270. There are two bolts, one on each side (one under my thumb), and a lower bolt holding the lock in place. The lower nut has a black plastic cover over it, pry that off and you get to the nut.

There are several bolts attaching this cover plate. Also the horns need to be disconnected and a tip is to also remove the right transmission cooler top bolt, and loosen the left one, as you will need to pry back the mount to get the plate off due to the hook. See pic below

View attachment 3625095

View attachment 3625099
I used plyers to pinch these black plastic mounting clips, on the wire harness, to disconnect from the cover plate. You can see that there is a black plastic tray underneath the lock. Once I got to this point I thought I might of been able to just disconnect the tray and drop from below, without taking cover plate off, but I believe it still would of been tight working in there.

That black tray is connected with self-taping screws. You should reconnect that tray to the cover plate before putting cover plate fully on, it will be easier to line up the tray and screws. I did not do this and it was a pain to get it lined up after wards.

You can see the hood cable snaking in from the right. It's pretty intuitive how that disconnects from the old lock and reconnects.

Once that's done just reverse the process and mount everything back. Keep track of your bolts when you take it apart and it will be easier.

I've seen vidoes of other lock replacements where they tell you to make a mark where the old lock mounts, so it alligns when you put it back together. I did not do that, and it appears you really don't need to on this, as the cover plate and lock really don't have any room to wiggle side to side once bolted back. She shut perfect.

This failed the day I was detailing the truck so my son could take it to prom. Also the battery failed that morning too, as wife had been listening to music for a half hour or so (battery was on the way out it appears). Got a new battery but had to wait on the hood latch, but my son still wanted to take it.

View attachment 3625101

Cheers.
Awesome rig for a memorable time! Keep doing what you can to raise him right!
 
Hi,
Is there a wire and plug that connects into the locking mechanism? It looks like it comes off the main wiring bundle in your pic. I am asking because I have a 200 series with an alarm that will occasionally go off in the middle of the night. I THINK it might be a hood locking sensor that sets it off as my door sensors look fine. After looking at my latch assembly, I want to make sure there is some sort of electrical connection there before disassembling and replacing. I know other Toyota models have the issue, but the replacement looks much simpler than ours.
Thanks,
Adam
I did not come across and electrical connections to the lock. Just the mechanical.
 

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