Home made trailer axis coupling

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If you can imagine in this picture having weight on the swivel end it would make the middle part rotate down and you have to raise the tongue to rotate it up again so you can tow again.
View attachment 491967

Hope this helps

I have a hard time organizing my thoughts into words, must be an A D D thing.

I see what you're saying, but I'm not sure how to put it into words. Maybe if the trailer itself is well-balanced there won't be enough tongue weight for that to happen in his build, but a lack of tongue weight on a short trailer could make it a nightmare to tow.
 
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I found these pictures of the damage it causes
View attachment 491958
View attachment 491959

it is hard to explain without pictures.

In gilberto perez's build you can imagine the second piece rotating strait down when the trailer is 90 degrees to the truck. The when the truck takes off strait again the tongue can't rotate and binds.

If you can imagine in this picture having weight on the swivel end it would make the middle part rotate down and you have to raise the tongue to rotate it up again so you can tow again.
View attachment 491967

hope this helps

i have a hard time organizing my thoughts into words, must be an a d d thing.[/quote]

on this pic, I hope this will helP the problem, if ever exist one, I dont know, I have not tested the coupling yet,I just hope I dont have the same problem, by watching some videos on ozhitch i dont see a problem there o any complains, or are they??, the only complaint out there is on lock n roll????
IH8 MUD (4).JPG
 
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[
I found these pictures of the damage it causes
View attachment 491958
View attachment 491959

it is hard to explain without pictures.

In gilberto perez's build you can imagine the second piece rotating strait down when the trailer is 90 degrees to the truck. The when the truck takes off strait again the tongue can't rotate and binds.

:confused::confused::hhmm::hhmm:If you can imagine in this picture having weight on the swivel end it would make the middle part rotate down and you have to raise the tongue to rotate it up again so you can tow again.
View attachment 491967

hope this helps

i have a hard time organizing my thoughts into words, must be an a d d thing.

on this pic, i hope this will hepl on the problem if ever exist one, i dont know, i have not tested the coupling yet, i just hope i dont have the same problem, by watching some videos on ozhitch i dont see a problem there o any complains, or are they, the only complaint out there is on lock n roll????[/QUOTE]
SORRY HERE IS THE PIC
IH8 MUD (3) - Copy.JPG
 
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:idea::idea::idea::clap::clap:
on this pic, i hope this will hepl on the problem if ever exist one, i dont know, i have not tested the coupling yet, i just hope i dont have the same problem, by watching some videos on ozhitch i dont see a problem there o any complains, or are they, the only complaint out there is on lock n roll????
sorry here is the pic[/quote]

ok i think this is the solution, by rotaiting the tongue 45 deg. Here is a pic before & after
DSC_7309 - Copy.JPG
DSC_7319 - Copy.JPG
 
her is another picture, this one is the end part, its goin to conect to the trailer, material i use is 1/2'' and i overlap tring beads weld,

Its that piece and that fillet weld that I would be cautious about. Check it regularly for cracking.
 
I see what you're saying, but I'm not sure how to put it into words. Maybe if the trailer itself is well-balanced there won't be enough tongue weight for that to happen in his build, but a lack of tongue weight on a short trailer could make it a nightmare to tow.

Unfortunately, it's not a balance issue, but a well documented design flaw with the Lock n Roll hitch/coupler. Allegedly, they've rectified this in their new design, but their lack of customer service is so ridiculously horrific that no one should ever purchase anything from these guys IMHO.
 
:hhmm:

I understand what your saying. I agree that rotating the reciever hitch end would fix the shear load.
 
You don't have to build your own Clevis pin hitches.
Clevis Trailer Pin Mount

The Harbor Freight ones are hollow bar stock and if you cut off the 2X2 off the back of one for the trailer side and cross drilled and shafted them for the X Y link you could them drill the "C" center for you rotational bolt. You can buy the Clevis pin hitches with solid bar stock if you want.

The only welding this way would be the bolt to the "C" piece.

Make sense?

I was going to make one this way for mine until I came across a pintle lunette ring to work with.

Sorry, but I've done trail repairs with an under the hood welder and I trust it only long enough to get me back to a proper welder. Your weld don't give me warm fuzzys.

Nice effort though!
 
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I like the idea! Is the center piece a solid bar stock or hollow?
 
you don't have to build your own clevis pin hitches.
clevis trailer pin mount

the harbor freight ones are hollow bar stock and if you cut off the 2x2 off the back of one for the trailer side and cross drilled and shafted them for the x y link you could them drill the "c" center for you rotational bolt. You can buy the clevis pin hitches with solid bar stock if you want.

The only welding this way would be the bolt to the "c" piece.

Make sense?

I was going to make one this way for mine until i came across a pintle lunette ring to work with.

Sorry, but i've done trail repairs with an under the hood welder and i trust it only long enough to get me back to a proper welder. Your weld don't give me warm fuzzys.

Nice effort though!

note on this project i use my ready weld only for tack welds, i use my frinds miller ( rod e7018 3/32) for the finish product,

dont take me wronh I have use mY ready wellderr for finish product & Ilove it, here are some pics,
 
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