Home made trailer axis coupling (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 31, 2006
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44
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Location
BAJA CALIFORNIA
:popcorn::I just finish the fabrication of my axis coupling,
SORRY, :whoops::bang: ITS MY PROTOTYPE,
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Stop bragging and show us this thing you speak of.
 
how is the cylinder end mounted to 'da trailer ?
^ assuming the square stock end it for the receiver.

mo' pictars please
I HAVE NOT FINISH THAT PART, YES THE the square stock end, is for the receiver, & IM GOIN TO WELLD the cylinder end TO A METAL PLATE SO I CAN BOLT IT ON TO THE TRAILER,

I USE MY READY WELDER II TO TAC WELD EVERITHING,
a necessary preliminary step in many welding projects
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I like the idea. My respect for you just tripled after learning you've done it all with a Ready Welder, that's some impressive work for a mobile welder!

Keep us posted!
 
I need a biger wellder, this wellder does the work, the problem is the batterys, i have to set up every time i want to use the wellder, & recharge the batterys & i need gas for it,
i like the idea. My respect for you just tripled after learning you've done it all with a ready welder, that's some impressive work for a mobile welder!

Keep us posted!
 
I may be overly worrisome here, but have you considered reinforcing the right angles on the halves of the setup? maybe making the "tongues" of longer pieces so more of them can be welded into the shaft for added strength? I just worry that a fierce jack-knife could really maul those welds.

Keep up the good work!
 
I may be overly worrisome here, but have you considered reinforcing the right angles on the halves of the setup? maybe making the "tongues" of longer pieces so more of them can be welded into the shaft for added strength? I just worry that a fierce jack-knife could really maul those welds.

Keep up the good work!
I HAD THE SAME CONCERN, REGARDING THE WELDING SPOTS AROUN THE TONGUES, I THINK THEY ARE DEEP WELDS, IF YOU SEE THE PICTURE THERE IS PLENTY OF SPACE IN BETWEEN, PLUS I HAD TO MAKE MULTIPLE-PASS LAYER IN ORDER TO GET SOME GOOD weld penetration,
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okay, the close-up shows how massive those welds are.
 
I HAD THE SAME CONCERN, REGARDING THE WELDING SPOTS AROUN THE TONGUES, I THINK THEY ARE DEEP WELDS, IF YOU SEE THE PICTURE THERE IS PLENTY OF SPACE IN BETWEEN, PLUS I HAD TO MAKE MULTIPLE-PASS LAYER IN ORDER TO GET SOME GOOD weld penetration,

I think the other piece is your weak point, it looks like you have no overlapping metal and welds.
 
i think the other piece is your weak point, it looks like you have no overlapping metal and welds.
her is another picture, this one is the end part, its goin to conect to the trailer, material i use is 1/2'' and i overlap tring beads weld,
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Looking at you coupler it looks like it will have the same problem that the lock and roll has. When you get the trailer 90 degrees to the truck the trailer tongue will drop down and when you straiten out it will bind and brake. This happens because the side to side axis lines up with the swivel axis and the weight of the tongue pull the swivel down. If you rotate the slide in 90 degrees it will fix this and you can jackknife all day long.
 
Can you post pictures? I would like to see how you rotated the lock and roll. Thanks!
 
I don't have one but i can see the design flaw.

I found these pictures of the damage it causes
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It is hard to explain without pictures.

In GILBERTO PEREZ's build you can imagine the second piece rotating strait down when the trailer is 90 degrees to the truck. The when the truck takes off strait again the tongue can't rotate and binds.

If you can imagine in this picture having weight on the swivel end it would make the middle part rotate down and you have to raise the tongue to rotate it up again so you can tow again.
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Hope this helps

I have a hard time organizing my thoughts into words, must be an A D D thing.
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