You apparently have a Dobinson steering damper, which has a bushing and bolt.
As far as I know, the J7 tierod ends originally are designed for damper with ball joints. My BJ73 steering damper has ball joints. Those imho would better catch the movement that makes the relay rod rotate, which it is actually not supposed to do.
As far as I see, the damper hits that locking nut. On my BJ73, the rod ends are slotted and the locking is done with a sleeve bracket. That is adding less to the rod's diameter than the nut does, giving the damper more room to tilt.
All in all, you are looking at a few given designs here, which individually are great, but add up in a negative way here.
The relay rod end can be adjusted, as
@sodafeld1 suggested. But that adjustment/ preload on the ball joint is primarily ment to reduce play and prevent the pin from tilting when the rod moves in lateral direction. But it also helps a bit on the rotation.
Check for play in the ball joint: Wheels on the ground and actuate steering. Look at the rubber boot: It is not supposed to show lateral movement. Thighten as needed. There are more holes for the cotterpin to go in at different angles (Sometimes hidden under the boot). I had to thighten mine quite a lot after 15k. If yours has 30k it might be due.
Good Luck Ralf
I am going to have to agree with you about the pivot ball joints on the ome damper, it would reduce the movement and stress on the relay rod end especially. The ome is a better design, I think terrain tamer does a pivot damper too..so, in this instance donaldson is not as good, it had made in PRC too which never instills confidence, they use to make in Oz...
I have the ome on order with other stuff, (takes yonks as I go for cheapest shipping) but the donaldson damper came up on sale with free shipping within 2 days.. that is how they 'get ya'. If you put the fat end of the donaldson damper towards the lock nut, yes it would hit the lock nut. But I would say the solid tube relay rod is a better design as mud does not collect and get held in the rod. Stronger too.
Little hard to describe the feel and sound, no way near as drastic as leaf spring clunk, I know what that is! Donaldson springs fixed that. Happens mostly when taking off from stop at slow speed, (not whilst stopping) a little when turning at slow speed, maybe a little less again when changing gear. A slightly perceptible clunk travels through the steer column. Wouldn't notice it if I wasn't so anal, or have the tunes on loud. Nothing at hwy speed, runs straight and true, no wobbles or vibrations.
At this point the movement in the video is what it feels like, so have to wait on the ome for that one. I'll give the ends a bit more of a tighten too. It feels subtle.
I may take the springs off to give them a look over after I lube the steer column which feels fine but just to check. I go over some some pretty bad roads a fair bit, so things do get a good work out. You don't know much at all, on all those corrugations, besides knowing it is hard on any vehicle. Have to clean more often than I like to, damn that 'Shimoda messiah'.
I know I nailed my knuckles proper with shims and the good bolts with hex heads.
The propeller shafts are good , new uni joints throughout. I may have to look into a slight hum in hi4 if I go on the mud roads at speed over 50kmh, but that speed in mud is a bit too exciting for me really, slow is safer with the log trucks..and transfer is a bigger job which I would put off until it is noticeably unpleasant.
Maybe look at the play on the diffs later, but at 11.3km/l I am not complaining.
Can count a few factors in front; springs, u- bolts, shackles, pins, knuckles (bearings, shim alignment centering, bolts and nuts for arms), relay rods, tie rod ends, steer column, steer box, steer pump, bearings, wheel balance, alignment toe in..anything I missed?
enough of an essay
Those old trucks are what they are. And when having them as a hobby one always looks, feels, checks, thinks... Same with me.
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