hj47 power steering conversion

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A

alecl

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Threads
12
Messages
48
Location
Australia, NSW
hello. ive recently done a power steer conversion on my hj47. i will put up a few photoes here. as im from Australia it is a right hand drive.
the first couple of pictures should be how much is needed to cut away the shock tower. ive been told that you can use the shock mount off a hj75 or similar as it is lower, but i was told this after the conversion.
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this should be a picture of where to mount the power steer box. im not totally sure but i think its off a 80 or 100 series. dont forget to use crush pipes inside the chassis for the bolts. i made a plate on the oppisite side as well to evenly distribute the weight of the bolts.
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i used the pump on a 60 series. it pretty much bolted straight on. it bolts onto the timing cover for memory, and youll need a couple of longer bolts to take it. i only had one longer bolt so i milled one of the holes a bit.
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youll need the 2 pulleys off a 60 series also. i was told the engine mount bracket with the little tab for the pump off a 60 series would fit my 47 but it didnt. so i made the little tab. also dont use the old 60 series hoses, have new ones made up its not worth keeping the old ones, trust me.
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youve also got to cut away one corner of the engine mount so the banjo fitting can bolt onto the pump. you dont have to cut much off it though. i cant fint the picture for this.
 
the steering column shaft was off a 80 or 100 series. there are 2 of them. you have to cut the spline off the 47 steering wheel shaft and weld it onto the new shaft. for memory the steering wheel shaft was 30.5 inches long and the steering box shaft was 500mm long. there is a uni joint between the two and one at the power steer box. there is also a rubber needed at the firewall but i cant remember the size. i dont have many photoes of this.
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when i put the fan back on the pulleys were in the way. first i mounted the fan a bit further forward but it seemd a bit close to the radiator. so i trimmed the fan down fit. make sure you do it evenly. this picture is not a good example, its all i have.
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this is how i mounted the resivour. just remember to use new hose.
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here is a picture of a hj75 shock in a hj47, this is another option.
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i would appreciate if someone would explain how to convert my hj47 to disc brakes. i have a hj75 to wreck. it would be mostly appreciated if it was in some detail, thanks.
 
Hi Alec

Nice write-up. You got the photos resized I see. I think if I mirror all the images it'll work just fine on mine!

Just kiddin'...
 
oh yeah, you'll need the draglinks off a hj75 or similar. as well as the steering damper. youve gotta cut the damper mount off the chassis and remount for the 75 damper. i was told to attach the draglinks and then make the wheels straight ahead, then make the damper go to the centre of its stroke. attach the damper to the draglink and wherever the other end of the damper meets the chassis is where youll need to bolt on the mount. youll also need the steering arms off a hj75.
 
all the conversions ive seen that relocate the shock tower back a few inches and spin the pin around so the shock is still in the same place
means you can move the steering box back abit to get better angles on the steering arms
 
flaminbandit said:
all the conversions ive seen that relocate the shock tower back a few inches and spin the pin around so the shock is still in the same place
means you can move the steering box back abit to get better angles on the steering arms
Click to expand...
that probably would have been better, would have been stronger too hopefully RTA doesnt see it. i did have a bit of trouble finding all the info on how to do it; the internet is the only place i have used to find my info i havent met anyone who has done a power steer conversion.
in the future i will do a 5 speed conversion as well as a disc brakes on the front in the near future, so if anyone has any useful info on either it would be a great help especially with pictures.
 
also with the radiator bottom outlet pipe, youve gotta have it come straight up and to the right (towards the power steer box) at about 45 degrees. i had a radiator specialist weld mine up. unfortionately i forgot to take a picture. make sure it doesnt go too close to the pump pulley.
 
I've just finished my conversion in much the same way.. Yours is the first I've seen that retains the battery in the stock location.. My column is from a 55. My intermediate shaft is from a 73.. I adapted the column to the intermediate with a small spline yoke from a 80 rag joint and a large spline yoke from a 70 intermediate shaft.. This is the only modified part, and connects the steering wheel to the box with no welds.. I used 70 rods, ends, damper and pitman arm and 60 king pin arms.. I bolted my damper bracket to the front cross member using the two holes near the large hole for the PTO shaft. I made the bracket from a chopped up 70 chassis end damper bracket.

Putting the box in this location has some benefits, the shock tower doesn't need relocation, and the battery location is retained.. Im not entirely happy with the geometry of the rods, and looks like I'll need a flat pitman arm if I do a SOA conversion.. I had to extend the bump stop on the driver side to stop the tie rod contacting the sector shaft, something worth checking..

I have 4WDB and dual diaphragm booster, thats a conversion worth doing too..
 
vk7ybi said:
Im not entirely happy with the geometry of the rods, and looks like I'll need a flat pitman arm if I do a SOA conversion..

I have 4WDB and dual diaphragm booster, thats a conversion worth doing too..
Click to expand...
im not a real clever fella :hillbilly: what is a SOA conversion, 4wdb and a dual diaphragm booster?
 
SOA is a spring over axle conversion, good way to get clearance, but one has to consider diff pinion angles, steering and the like, plus legalities of the mod, depending on which state you're in.
 
SOA.. Spring Over Axle, The springs are moved to the top of the axle.
4WDB.. 4 Wheel Disc Brakes.
Dual diaphragm booster.. The brake master cylinder is boosted with a vacuum diaphragm, manifold vacuum is applied to one side of the diaphragm to assist the drivers pedal effort, making the pedal lighter.. A dual diaphragm booster has 2 diaphragms, therefore doubling the assist.. With 4WDB and a good booster the braking performance is substantially improved with a more modern feel..
 
lol, this should be called the australian thread, havnt seen this many aussies on here in a while.

Is there a state left where you can get away with an SOA without seeing an engineer?

Also the PS conversion, DB conversion and 5sp now all have to be engineered in NSW. It sucks!
 
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