high mile trans serv on '97 runner

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Hey guys,

I'm doing a bunch of work to my pals 1997 230k 3.4, 4x4 4Runner, timing belt, valve covers, coolant hoses, plugs, etc. Trans fluid also looks a bit on the dirty side and was going to change it.

My question is do you guys drop the pan or just undo the drain bolt and say pump fresh fluid in via the cooler lines until you start to get clean fluid out of the cooler lines?

Or are most of you proponents of dropping the pan and then doing the cooler line flush?
 
So it's one of the metal filters on that truck? Not one that would be replaced?
 
yup think it is a screen/strainer not a filter.
For me I guess I am a lazy fellow as I will just take it to a quick lube to get a transmission flush done on it. I just had a flush done on the 2000 I bought as it was fairly dirty. They tie in on the cooler lines, I usually take off the skid plates before I go, and with their presurized setup the clean fluid goes in as the dirty stuff comes out. It's all clear plastic cylinders and lines so you can see the dark crap coming out and the clean going in. They circulate an extra 20% or so than what it holds and it does a pretty good job in my mind for the cost. It's cool to see dirty fluid coming out and then to see it clean up to what the ingoing fluid looks like.
I like the idea of dropping the pan and cleaning it out but perhaps get a flush first and then drop the pan, clean and top up again.
just my 2 cents
 
With fluid that old I'd just drain/drop the pan and replace the 3 quarts with new stuff. Then repeat this again on the next oil change.
 
I liked the approach that a neighboring city's Toyota dealership service manager offered me... we prefer to drain the pan and refill it blending clean the oil but if it is bad enough then we will do a transmission flush.
That seems like sound logic to me. The amount of crud in my 2000 I just bought obviously demonstrated that it had not been changed for a long while and replacing the fluid 2 or 3 quarts at a time to blend it clean compared to running 13 quarts through it doing a flush seemed like a better choice in my mind.
 
drop/clean the pan
clean the strainer
put the strainer and pan back on, use new gaskets on strainer
fill pan
then do fluid exchange via cooler lines

Exactly.

Its the safest way to replace old fluid in your transmission.
 
Do you guys know the rough capacity on this trans?

And what fluid does it require?

Thanks, no owner's manual handy and I'd rather not ask the peeps at Auto Zone for fear of errors.
 
My 96 owners manual says DEXRON-II and my 2000 owners manual says DEXRON-III (DEXRON-II)
I went through this about a year ago and the local dealer says their Toyota brand oil is Esso Dexron III. The local quick lube had also used Esso Dexron III last year but last week they mentioned they can't get Esso brand anymore it's now Mobil...
The online manual link at the top of the 95+ section says A340E dry fill 7.6 US quarts and A340F dry fill 10.8 US quarts

I just had a flush done....they ran 13 through it.... system capacity would be at least 10 I think.
Owners manual says "up to 2.1 quarts" for a "drain and refill"
 
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When I replaced the trans filter, it took me 6 quarts to get it to the full mark...Yes 6 quarts.

Whatever you dont use, can be used for flushing your PS.
 
FWIW. I have read several threads regarding strawberry milkshakes due to the OE transcooler leaking into the coolant.

Another Strawberry Milkshake 1999 4runner - YotaTech Forums


when I did my trans service, I dropped the pan, cleaned it out. installed an aftermarket cooler, and bypassed the original one. I had 150K on my 4runner. The cooler was a hundred bucks or so. Seemed cheaper than a new transmission if mine should start to leak.
Also, I got the OEM Flexible In place Gasket from the dealer. I did not use the gasket that came with the new strainer I put on. The flexible gasket worked very well. almost a year and no leaks.

just my .02
 
My 97

I did a lot of reviews for mine as I had 165k on it and went with a flush with my Toyota repair shop. I have a trans cooler and just need to put it on as I want to avoid the SM tranny problem.
Way too much work to drain yourself.
 
Does anybody know the root cause for the failures of the coolers to make a milkshake?
-Mechanical separation due to vibration or poor construction?
-Chemical corrosion due to not maintaining coolant?
- or what?
 
I did mine via the cooler line method. Marked a bucket and pumped out two quarts at a time replacing as I went. I used 16 quarts to get good clean fluid coming out. My buddy did his in my garage right after mine. It also took 16 quarts. Call your auto parts store and ask how much for a 5 gallon of ATF. I paid $50ish for 5 gal.

I did a similar service as yours at 180k. Timing belt. All idler pullies both the two for the t-belt and the one for the AC belt. I also replaced all accessory belts and coolant hoses as well as all the coolant and the water pump and thermostat. I had no signs of oil leakage anywhere so I bought, but did not install a new crank seal. I also have, but have not replaced all the gear lube. Oh, and I did an o2 sensor while I was at it. All together it ended up around $400 worth of parts, but I feel like I'm good for another 180k miles.

If you haven't purchased your timing belt kit I recommend rockauto.com

This is the timing belt kit:

AISIN TKT005

It is made up of OEM parts. And cost a lot less than buying from a dealer.
 

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