High beam wiring?

[RiverRatMatt]

I'm want to put two of my auxiliary front lights onto my high beam circuit. The question I have been pondering, however, is where to wire them so the high beams turn them on. From what I understand, the high beam lights are used as the DRLs, just run through a resistor to lower the brightness. When the high beams are turned on, the resistor is bypassed somehow. I'm assuming I can't just wire the relay for the aux lights into the high beam fuse, because it would always be on (aside from when low beams are on).

Where should I wire the aux lights so they turn on with the highs?

 

[larryt]

You can tap into the circuit at the junction next to the air box. The two wires marked in the second pic go to your relay.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

Thank you! So the Red/Yellow (marked with the +) goes high when the high beams are turned on?

 

[larryt]

I didn’t have any luck splicing just the red/yellow (marked +) for positive. I also needed the negative from that bundle to make it work. If you need the corresponding relay numbers, I can check in the morning.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

I didn’t have any luck splicing just the red/yellow (marked +) for positive. I also needed the negative from that bundle to make it work. If you need the corresponding relay numbers, I can check in the morning.

Thank you, I'll do some exploring with a clamp meter and see what's getting current. I have the aux lights on a relay that's connected to my aux fog lights already, but want to move them to the high circuit. Since that relay's grounded I should just need a signal wire to the relay, I think.

 

[jerryb]

Wire it like you were putting in HID s. Use a regular relay and then use a regular high beam splitter.

Just the splitter alone might be ok, but I'd use a relay.

If you just need a signal use two 9005 splitters off the high beam plug.

Those are my quick thoughts without thinking to hard. I could be wrong.


Oo, that high beam ground switches when you pull the steering wheel stalk to hi. That's why it might not work.

Going about that way from the daytime running light relay you need the red yellow, the red green, and both or just the single white/red on the passenger 9005 high beam connector.

there's just one ground for the actual high beams, that's white red.

The wiring picture from the book will show it better than explaining it.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

So I did some work today. I measured current through the Red/Yellow above, but there was always current so I'm pretty sure that's always hot when one of the high beams is on. I wired into the Red/White, but that turns them on whenever the lights are on, high beam or DRL. I also tried the left black/white wire, but no dice there.

I'm realizing though, I think the Black/White that you've marked as the (-) might only be grounded when the high beams are on, and so the signal is a ground, not another wire going high. I'm an idiot.

So at this point, I'm debating between rewiring the ground to the Black/White you've marked....

 

[larryt]

I wish I could explain the positive/negative triggering of the high beams, but I can’t. Maybe @jerryb or someone more knowledgeable can chime in. I don’t recall where I saw I the diagram I followed, but it works well.

 

[jerryb]

White red is the high beam ground, but only a ground when the relay makes it so.

Also, I'm not sure but there isn't a hot only when the high beams are on wire.

It is on the passenger side 9005 connector.
The white black you see can also be used from the relay position 2b only in the later 100s.

Earlier 100 is a different position.
Really you just need red green and red yellow. Both grounded in the white red.

 

[jerryb]

Larryt is right.
Doing it from the 9005 connector is just easier.
If your relay is already exposed then you just need the correct black white ground.

That would be the black white that is grounded only when you pull the steering wheel stalk. You can check that without the book.
Don't melt anything.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

White red is the high beam ground, but only a ground when the relay makes it so.

Also, I'm not sure but there isn't a hot only when the high beams are on wire.

It is on the passenger side 9005 connector.
The white black you see can also be used from the relay position 2b only in the later 100s.

Earlier 100 is a different position.
Really you just need red green and red yellow. Both grounded in the white red.

I'm not sure I understand. There is no red/green..

Mine is a 2000 LX, if that matters.

 

[jerryb]

In that case go off this one . See the common ground between the high beams? That's the one you want. Either before or after the relay.

It's red white in later years.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

This is how I currently have it wired. The green and purple wire go to the relay that engages the LEDs. They are connected to the Red/White and White/Black on the left side.

Also the electrical tape looks like s*** but its a redundant layer, the connections are all properly three way soldered and heat-shrinked.

 

[jerryb]

In case I posted the wrong pic. Here's another one from 98 and the other from 2002 in the same pic.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

In that case go off this one . See the common ground between the high beams? That's the one you want. Either before or after the relay.

It's red white in later years.

View attachment 2147317

I can't really tell anything from that, sorry :/ I'm not familiar enough with those diagrams to get anything useful out of them. I posted a picture above of how I have it wired now, which turns on the LEDs whenever the DRLs or high beams are on.

 

[jerryb]

That is probably what you have.
Position 1b is what you want. Verify continuity with ground with the high beams on.
Or take your LEDs grounds and just splice at the high beam connector, either side. Passenger side is right there close to the relay.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

That is probably what you have.
Position 1b is what you want. Verify continuity with ground with the high beams on.
Or take your LEDs grounds and just splice at the high beam connector, either side. Passenger side is right there close to the relay.

Can't I just move the relay ground? Also, isn't that bulb grounded in both DRL and high beam cases, because otherwise it wouldn't work as the DRLs. I don't know what wire corresponds to 1B

 

[jerryb]

I'm sorry, it's either 1b or 2b. Likely 2b.
That all might be nonsense without the fsm for the numbering.

Check all the white black and see what is actual ground with the high beams on. That's what I'd do at that point.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

I'm sorry, it's either 1b or 2b. Likely 2b.
That all might be nonsense without the fsm for the numbering.

Check all the white black and see what is actual ground with the high beams on. That's what I'd do at that point.

Okay, should I check it by disconnecting the plugs, connecting a meter on continuity to frame ground then to each of the pins until I find the one that only has continuity with the switch engaged on the stalk? Or do I check on the wire side of the open connector?

 

[jerryb]

You can't move around the grounds at the relay. It's a series circuit that changes ground and switches to parallel with the high beams on.

The grounds are all switched with low beam activation. Which then swaps the highs to parallel.
I wouldn't mess with the daytime running light relay too much.