High beam switch__clean or replace

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

jasheehan

jasheehan

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Threads
81
Messages
416
Location
Purcellville, VA
I have been having an issue with high beams for a while. Like many other posts, they will not work if pushed forward, but they will flash when pulled back on the switch.

I read through multiple posts and specifically referenced Explorer4Hire and his post "high beams fixed."

I pulled my steering column apart yesterday, cleaned the contact and re-assembled and it still does not work. I do have a spare setup from a 97. It is basically all the switches from the column (see pic below from Explorer4Hire's posting). I went back and looked at the spare I have to see if I could remove just the light switch, but the wiring harness seemed to not come out easily from the main connection under the dash. Specifically, there was one green wire that connected into the switch from the other side....??? Clear???? I'll try and post up a pic tonight.
Plus, I couldn't see how to disconnect it from the harness....

Questions:
- should I just replace the whole contraption which I have from a donor vehicle (all switches and the yellow thingy)?
- if yes, anything I need to be careful of? I'm just concerned that when I start monkeying around that my turn signals won't turn off automatically, and I'll basically bunk something up?
- thoughts?

Thank you.

upload_2017-12-11_15-47-33.webp
 
I replaced the high beam switch (Toyota calls it a dimmer switch) on my 94 last year. First off, make sure the switch is actually faulty: Pushing the stalk forwards will only active the high beams if the low beams are already on. I did not realize this and ended up replacing a perfectly functional unit.

As far as replacing the high beam switch its not too bad, a ball bearing will fall out when you unscrew the switch so watch for that. You have to re-pin the connector, i used a jewelers screwdriver, it took me a couple minutes to figure out the first pin, after that it was easy. I would remove one pin then reconnect the new pin rather then unconnecting all at once, this way you don't have to worry about putting a pin in the wrong slot. overall not a hard job
 
Its been while since I did this. I think theres some sort of snap on the main plug that you take off that gives you access to the pins then use a jewelers screwdriver or the like (I believe Wits End makes a tool) to press a tab on each pin which frees it from the plug. I remember fumbling with the first pin for 5 minutes or so before i got it, after that each one only took a few seconds.

Sorry if thats not the most helpful, Its been awhile since I did this and I don't think I took any pics.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom