- Thread starter
- #61
What I meant was, is it worth investing the time into fixing stuff? What's left of the floor is most likely trash, parts of doors are just rotten. Not sure I have any of the top half of the body...
Hey new to the scene here
- Thread starter BubbaFJ40
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Depends on if you have more time or more money. Rust free parts can be hard to find here in the rust belt. They are out there. Sometimes, it might be cheaper/less work to find a clean donor or use yours for parts.
- Thread starter
- #63
Well, my goal is to build this one the right way the first time...if I can save it then I will...the guy who gave me this one may be giving me the other one too
- Thread starter
- #64
Honestly right now I have neither...but if I do buy the tig it would make life a lot easier to repair the thin steel.
- Thread starter
- #65
Hey everyone, resurrecting an old thread here as I just moved the FJ40 into my garage/home shop. Wanted to post some photos and get some feedback from you. I am not so sure of the date of my cruiser as it was built in November of 1977 and could be a 78 model year. I feel like this is important information to know. I have included some photos for everyone to help me.
I think by the time you either reconstructed the tub yourself or bought the component parts to reconstruct the tub yourself, you could just buy a tub. And you'd fast forward the process by about a year.
- Thread starter
- #67
I'm not denying that! I'm going to star the tear down procedure this weekend to see what I am working with under the destroyed remnants of the tub. I will begin the process of looking for a tub once I figure out which year FJ I have as well as once I determine the condition of everything that is still hidden. I hope to have everything torn down to individual sheet metal and have just a frame and drive line sitting there but the end of Sunday.
Good luck! I'm hoping to have my tub in primer by the end of the weekend.
EDIT: I'm delusional but I still hope.
EDIT: I'm delusional but I still hope.
- Thread starter
- #69
You wouldn't happen to be able to assist me in deciphering what model year mine is would you? The VIN plate says Nov. 1977
It would be a 1978 model as the break is usually the preceding September.
There is data plate info in the FAQ and this page: Serial number questions
There is data plate info in the FAQ and this page: Serial number questions
- Thread starter
- #71
Thanks for the help man! I plan to photo document the tear down on sunday and will post the photos up here and in my media file for all interested parties.
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- Jan 6, 2012
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78 is a good year. 4.11 gears and fine spline pinion. You can pull the pinion flange to verify.
Awesome! People dig pics here.
Shameless plug of my picture heavy build thread: Climate Change: Project Global Warming '76 fj-40
Editing cause I'm dain bramaged.
Shameless plug of my picture heavy build thread: Climate Change: Project Global Warming '76 fj-40
Editing cause I'm dain bramaged.
- Thread starter
- #74
Any idea on if the driveline behind the engine could hold up to the power of a built up Cummins? My original plan was a Cummins 4BT with an NV manual Transmission and Atlas Transfer Case. Never made it to planning out tire size, or axle gearing. I was always pretty confident that I wanted to go with Air lockers but not really sure how to select an axle or gearing.
Does the 2F run? Just a personal observation but I'd concentrate on getting the tub/body work done, giving you the chance to drive it once in a while. And then while its drive-able, build a new drive train. You'll enjoy it more.
tear down?
you mean lift the cowl off the frame and throw it away?
you mean lift the cowl off the frame and throw it away?
Referring to the photo above, the round hole next to your glovebox - should be a matching hole at the other end of the dash. These were where defrost vents attached. '78 was first year for them.
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Yes it would hold up but i eould take off the rear drums abs convert to discs. The 4bt is a loud motor. I would drive a 4bt powered rig b4 u use one for a swap. I know personally its too loud and rattly for me. 4.11 may be too low and u may want to go 3.70 with a diesel to keep rpms down. With the nv4500 u will have a very short driveshaft.
- Thread starter
- #80
I am not sure if its going to be thrown away or if I will repair it. Still pretty up in the air on it.
Thanks for the heads up, I am going to need to find alot of photos of a complete 1978 so that I may figure out what I have and what is still missing and what may be laying in one of the boxes of pieces that I have.
Do you have a transmission and Transfer case suggestion that would allow for a longer drive shaft? I am strongly considering a coilover conversion for the suspension and would assume that I would need a slip joint driveshaft both front and rear to allow for full flexion. I welcome all of the assistance from you guys!