Hey new to the scene here

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Twin turbo/compound turbo cummins 4b
Manual Trans
twin stick xfer
a linked front and rear end
full cage but still keeping that factory cruiser style with modern tech.
Tuffy overhead for a cb or ham or fire radio
tuffy center box for the radio with a full system

Still deciding on lots of other things

Big plans, did you buy the FJ40 or did they give it to you ?


:cheers:
 
Next question would be is it worth trying to build up the fj40 axles or should I just buy custom built ones front and rear sonce I'm running such a heavy engine?
 
IMO the stock axles are plenty strong ... Rebuild is straight forward ... Throw some disc brakes on them and put your $$ in other stuff instead IMHO

Somebody might have a different opinion

The only reason Im nervous about that is the fact that the motor and frame are going to be a lot heavier than the stock components. Plus I'm making it like a rolling tank. Would like to link the front and rear and put it on at least 35s with lockers of some sort. Still unsure about how to figure out gearing. The other thing I'd like to do is widen the footprint a little to make it more stable. Not sure about extending the body, I've noticed a lot of you have done this but not everyone. What are the big advantages to doing that?
 
If you want to link it and widen the track, why not drop 80 series suspension underneath? @watrob did this superbly IMHO; might be something you could consider.
 
That's insane. But I'm still not sure if I did it right. Nv5600 trans, atlas 2 tcase, and 3.83 gears so it can be my dd. At 6k rpm in 6th it says it'll top out at 224mph lmfao
 
The Grimm Jeeper site doesn't have any motors listed. I'm guessing that is because there are far too many different motors, versions of each motor, etc, to be able to list them all. Each transmission, transfer case, and rear end has specific gearing. If you are planning to use more custom gearing you have the option to input that gearing. With motors there are just too many variables.

Before you go very far with that site you need to know what the torque curve of your motor is (the RPM where it runs most efficiently), what your normal highway speeds are, or what other kind of use there will be if that will be more than highway use. Does your motor have good low end torque, or does it run better at higher RPM's, etc. Just what is the full RPM range you expect to normally use? This is especially important to know for diesels as they will run better, more economically, within the top of the torque curve. I'm not as familiar with how the torque curve effects a gasser motor, and it's optimum RPM range. Maybe someone more familiar with that question can chime in on that.

Don




,
 
Is there a way to figure out how to link a suspension, or figure out axle travel, or what type of cool overs to use?
I can't help there, maybe some of the guys from the hardcore section might be able to.
 
I can't help there, maybe some of the guys from the hardcore section might be able to.
I appreciate the help nonetheless. I'm hoping that after my wedding I'll be able to buy a welder (looking at a synchrowave 2xx) and get the 40 in my garage instead of my mom's and commence tear down. Is there anything wrong with trying to fix the rust holes that I have in doors and stuff or should I scrap them and get new?
 
I appreciate the help nonetheless. I'm hoping that after my wedding I'll be able to buy a welder (looking at a synchrowave 2xx) and get the 40 in my garage instead of my mom's and commence tear down. Is there anything wrong with trying to fix the rust holes that I have in doors and stuff or should I scrap them and get new?

Don't scrap anything if you have the room to store stuff. There is always someone that needs a piece or you might later.
 
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