help with lift
- Thread starter mp_cude
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yeah but by the time your done with SOA it'll cost as much or more than a 4" lift,,,
i always wonder how guys who cant afford lifts plan on putting 1K worth of tires on a rig or replacing broken parts.
not saying you cant afford it cude, just many guys think its much cheaper than it is.
keep your eyes out for used lifts springs, they pop up fairly often.
p.s. what the heck are castor shims for on a SOA?? sounds like a bad idea to me.
i always wonder how guys who cant afford lifts plan on putting 1K worth of tires on a rig or replacing broken parts.
not saying you cant afford it cude, just many guys think its much cheaper than it is.
keep your eyes out for used lifts springs, they pop up fairly often.
p.s. what the heck are castor shims for on a SOA?? sounds like a bad idea to me.
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You go used or hightecretreads like me and learn to fix things on the cheap (200 bux said and done for a headgasket).
You can get a SOA kit from Ruff Stuff Specialties. It will cost around $600 delivered. His kit will give you about 7" of lift.
ruff stuff sells a nearly complete kit for SOA. i really like his front spring perches with built in castor for the front driveshaft angle, its a great thing but you NEED to do a c&t with that kit at the same time. last i talked to him his kit does not contain shocks, brake lines, driveshaft rework, crossover steering arm or a welder. its a great kit but plan on adding a few hundred for a complete job.
seems like it was figured that a complete SOA runs about 1k for the average joe. i figure i have about $150 in my soa/sr, but i DIY'ed almost everything less shocks.
cude how much DIY you lookin for versus buying parts and putting them together?
seems like it was figured that a complete SOA runs about 1k for the average joe. i figure i have about $150 in my soa/sr, but i DIY'ed almost everything less shocks.
cude how much DIY you lookin for versus buying parts and putting them together?
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If you take tires, gears, and shocks out of the cost equation, it's the basically cost of hi-steer plus some other relatively inexpensive bits. It all adds up, but it's really more labor than $$$$.
If you are prepared for hours of grinding and some monkeying around under the truck for a while, it's not too difficult.
Nothing is cheap, but IMOP the quality of suspension travel is what matters. I don't think a 4" set of lift springs can touch a soa for ride and flex.
Who ever suggested add-a-leafs and 33's is absolutely right. Do this first. Save your money, Wheel your truck. Then collect your soa parts/tires/gears on the cheap (classifieds).
I think there's a description of every part I used in this THREAD
Of course, if you want to check out my rig, pm me anytime.
Brian
Many would argue that on a 60 series. Mark W from Alaska has posted that it is not neccesary on a 60 if you are using the stock sized springs.
On a 40 series you will get nothing but agreement.
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as far as work i can do it all my self (if i can get my hands on a welder) otherwise my buddy can weld it up. I found an odd size 34x10, and they ran 400 for a set of four. as far as add aleaf, can i just rob some from the scap yard, or do i have to get an add a leaf kit. i thought about add a leaf but my stock leafs are saggin, a stock replacement should give me an inch or two..i would like to check out your rig..
if you read my post you'd see that i am referring to the front spring perch ruff stuff sells, he has i believe a 10*? built in castor deale-o and you will NEED to c&t if you want the rig to steer right.
cude if you can do it all yourself then your golden on the cheap,,, i think i have about $150 in my SOA/SR. ya dont need hi steer just crossover, but hi steer is nice.
Here are some rough numbers on a SOA
$600 - Ruffstuff kit delivered
$550 - Luke 4x4 Labs High Steer kit using Dana 60 tie rod ends
$120 - New stainless steel brakelines
$125- Each to have the driveshafts retubed for a longer shaft.
This is all if you do the work yourself.
$700 - For most shops to do a Cut And Turn of the front knuckles.
Or
$1,200 for a OME system with a 3.5" lift. It can be done in an afternoon.
$600 - Ruffstuff kit delivered
$550 - Luke 4x4 Labs High Steer kit using Dana 60 tie rod ends
$120 - New stainless steel brakelines
$125- Each to have the driveshafts retubed for a longer shaft.
This is all if you do the work yourself.
$700 - For most shops to do a Cut And Turn of the front knuckles.
Or
$1,200 for a OME system with a 3.5" lift. It can be done in an afternoon.
you forgot the shocks, thats another $150
:whoops:
He will need shock for wich ever way he goes but you are right. The price should be listed.
I also forgot the anti-inversion shackles.
$250 - MAF perches, misc hardware and local u-bolts
$30 - Ford shock towers
$450 - Marlin hi-steer (even less @ Trail Gear)
$40 - Napa brake lines
$125 - d-shaft extend (only the front needed)
$200 - Doetsch Tech (craigslist is better)
Pretty close money wise...Labor not included
If you keep it low, skip the c&t and the rear driveshaft is already long enough. I kept mine under 5" of total lift and avoided alot of issues. I did do a shakle reversal up front to reduce hieght (this added a little $ and time). Honestly, I would aquire the parts over time, and plan it out (in the meantime MAF add-a-leafs and used 33's).
If 34" tires are as big as you plan to go, stay spring under. An OME kit is easy, complete and works very well. And, it should handle the 34's fine.
But, if you plan to ever go past 35's, it's time for gears and the grinder
What, are you saying 35's rub on the man-a-fre 4" kit, if so, I can argue that and prove it wrong on my 62, plus I didn't cut the fenders. Not saying i won't do an SOA in the future on another 60 series, but for cost at the time the Man-a-fre kit was perfect. You can do an SOA cheap, but most of the time they are more of a trail rig than a DD. It costs some money to do anything right the first time, especially if he doesn't have a welder in his garage. Just my 2 cents (everybody gets a turn)