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There's two idle adjustment screws for the carb that you can fiddle with at the back of the carb. Firewall end. The third adjustment screw on the valve cover side shouldn't be messed with.
The idle screw at the back of the carb that will adjust the idle speed is the screw that's the more difficult one to reach. The easy one to get at is to set fast idle speed limit - not what you want.
Sounds like the idle up on the AC is engaged full time.
Pull the vacuum line off of the AC idle up diaphragm actuator to see if it will idle down.
Sounds like maybe the AC idle set screw has been turned way up/in to compensate for the malfunctioning idle adjustment screw (if that's even possible). Back off the AC idle up screw all the way so it's in-op and then see if the idle adjustment screw does anything. If not, the carb should be removed & inspected.
The AC idle adjustment screw is only a throttle positioner. It's actuation (when working correctly) is no different than pressing down slightly on the gas pedal.
When it's working correctly, you could set it so that when the vacuum diaphragm is pulled, nothing happens, or you could set it to make the engine race at 2000 rpm. It -should- not be able to stall the engine.
What could be happening (just guessing) is the AC idle adjustment screw was used to compensate a very low idle, and when it's backed off, the engine stalls.
You've got to completely disengage the AC idle set screw from the equation. It shouldn't be influencing the engine. Back the screw all the way out (or in- can't remember) so that it's not increasing the idle.
If the engine won't run— that's pointing to the problem elsewhere in the carb. It seems that the AC idle adjustment is being used as a crutch to crank up the idle.
It shouldn't be used at all.
It's possible that the engine can't idle normally because of a new vacuum leak. Get the engine running (somehow) and check the vacuum w a vacuum gauge. Check all the hoses and where they connect. Vacuum should be near 20inHg at sea level.
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