Help... Startup knock with a slightly rough idle

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 26, 2005
Messages
166
Location
San Diego
Hello all... I need to tap the knowledge of the board here with couple of what I thought were stupid little problems on my 97 LC, that appear to be painting a pretty grim picture here...

First of all... my truck has been suffering from a slightly rough idle for about a year now. Everything originally started with a CEL on a long road trip that turned out to be an EGR vsv. Replaced VSV and the modulator at the same time and haven't seen the CEL since (10k ago). When I did the EGR mod I also went though and did a complete tune up including plugs/cap/rotor/wires. After everything was done I was left with a VERY mild roughness, just a slight vibration through the steering wheel at stop while in D, and a slight seat of the pants vibration. Checked the intake tube 3 times, nothing. Went through 2 stealerships and an idependent that couldn't find anything wrong with it, telling me I'm nuts in a round about way. I decided to let it go and watch it for a bit. Then last week I read this thread by desmocruiser...

desmocruiser said:
... The symptom: A slight 30-50 drop in rpm every few seconds after the truck has been dropped to idle. No other performance issues or irregular occurences.
stuff.

And it appears that his symptoms are very similar to mine. As the truck drops to idle, it will drop to ~700, and then drop ~20 rpm's every couple of seconds to ~600 where it settles out. When it hits 600 the idle gets slightly rough... sometimes rougher than others. Very occasionally quite rough. None of the cylinders seem to be completely missing as the load balance test as per Robbie shows further deterioration of the idle will each six plugs being removed.

After reading desmocruisers ordeal, it is starting to look like this may be a partial fault on one of the injector wires.

Now on to the second part of my problem... Last week I left my truck parked at a friends house, nose in against a block wall. When I came down to get it in the morning and started it up, I could hear a knocking sound reflecting off the wall so I popped the hood. It's hard to describe the sound because it does not sound like a rod or bottom end knock exactly. And I have a friend that has a Chevy Shakerado and it does not sound like the piston slap that he has either. The closest description that I can come up with is the sound of bubbles going through a high pressure hydraulic piston pump. Higher pitched than any knock or diesel-like clatter. Like two marbles or rocks hitting together. It can be heard from the top and the bottom... slightly louder from underneath the truck. Very intermittent, for only the first minute or two after startup after the truck has sat overnight, and I only hear about 10-12 knocks before it stops. They are not at any regular interval either. It's been very dificult trying to localize it with a stethescope since I have to try to remember how loud it was yesterday since I cannot get all the way around the truck in one go before it stops.

This problem may have been going on for a little while as the knock cannot be heard from inside the truck, and I never park overnight near anything that would reflect the knock into the truck.

What are the odds that these two problems may be related?!?

The rough idle may(likely) be a lean condition at idle in one/all of the cyclinders due to a partial wiring fault/fuel pump/injectors. I don't think that it is a fuel pump because I don't have any detonation issues. I have had the injectors cleaned, on the truck with cleaner right into the rail and have run a couple of cans of redline through it since.

And yes... the headgasket is running around in the back of my mind as well. Need to try the bubble test again today... 4500 rpm's for 5 minutes was it??

The truck was dealer maintained with records when I got her at 90K, and has had Mobil1 ever since. Any knocking/slap would not be from poor maintanance.

I'm not even sure where to start looking here. Wire looms... intake tube again... sensor checks/adjustment as per FSM. Can there be wiring damage without any visible breaks in the wire... if so how do I check/verify the wiring if it 'appears' OK. This is where ayou guys come in... what are the most likely culprits here.

Lastly... letting what seemed to be a stupid little rough idle condition go... what kind of damage could have been done to the engine causing the knock, if that is what it is. Is this where I should hit myself in the head with a metric wrench for having more pressing things to deal with recently...

Waiting with tools in hand...

Chris
 
Well... checked the glove box wiring. I did not open up the loom but there didn't appear to be any abrasions in the tape. Is it possible that the wiring could be damaged without any outward appearance of damage in the glove box?? I would have figured that this area would be an abrasion issue so there would have to be evidence of damage to the wire wrap to bother going any further.

Wiring around the egr pipe appears sound as well. Insulation in good condition, although I understand that there COULD be damage in this area without any appearance of a problem. Is it worth opening the bundle for inspection?? What am I looking for here??? Burnt wires, cracking insulation???

Also performed the bubble test to no avail. 10 minutes at 3500 and never saw a bubble. I Wasn't looking the entire time so is it possible that I missed them? I would have figured that there would be continuous bubbles with a blown HG. Once again... just because the bubbles aren't there, can't rule out a HG on the way out.

... back to the drawing board
 
How did the intake tube check out?

At least you appear to have eliminated the HG...
 
Planning on checking it in a couple of hours when I get home. Here on the west coast I owe the man a couple more hours yet.

Also planning to pull the plugs to check if any are showing obvious signs of running lean.
 
Have you checked the throttle position sensor? I know alot of folks have mentioned that as a possible source of idling issues.
 
I did a while back when the idle issues started. Everythng was within resistance spec as per the FSM. I'm not sure exactly how to check the degree... i.e. everyone says 5-6 degrees. Is a scan tool required to check that. I only recall the resistance checks in the FSM.

Also... it seems that a common issue with TPS related idling issues is very erratic idle speeds. To date, my idle is 1200 when cold and always around 600-625 when warm. A little low, but pretty consistant. Just not buttery smooth like when I first bought the truck.
 
Does the knock go away once the engine warms up ? or changes so you can barely hear it ? Let me know becuase I cant figure it out either. The only good thing is everything else seems fine with mine. Mine is loud when it is cold and almost dont hear it when it is warm. go figure...

good luck. post once you solve it.
 
As described the sound could be the AC idler bearing. I was hearing that noise earlier in the year when the weather was colder. I pulled the belt last week when I replaced the radiator, and the noise is not present. Could be the warmer weather though. I wish I had tightened the idler bearing adjuster bolt after I removed the belt . . .
 
I too have the same start up knock on my cruiser while start up for about 2-3 mins....At first I thought it was something internally inside engine, but when i reved up the engine to source the problem, the knocking does not intensify....I also listened with a stethscope and could not source the problem.....


"Like two marbles or rocks hitting together. It can be heard from the top and the bottom... slightly louder from underneath the truck. Very intermittent, for only the first minute or two after startup after the truck has sat overnight, and I only hear about 10-12 knocks before it stops. They are not at any regular interval either. It's been very dificult trying to localize it with a stethescope since I have to try to remember how loud it was yesterday since I cannot get all the way around the truck in one go before it stops.

This problem may have been going on for a little while as the knock cannot be heard from inside the truck, and I never park overnight near anything that would reflect the knock into the truck."


Exactly my problem, nice description El Jefe.......If you find what the problem is let us know.............
 
When parked steeply down hill, both my 80s make a faint low frequency hydraulick-ey chugging clatter/faint ringing from the lower engine. I only notice it when I'm at a friend's house where the sound reflects off the garage door. I have not noticed if it is louder upon startup, but know I can hear it with a hot engine at idle.

I've always assumed it was the engine oil piling up at the front of the engine and some kind of turbulence in the oil - perhaps the timing gear/chain causing turbulence when more fully immersed than normal.

DougM
 
I'm PRETTY SURE it's not an internal engine issue after stethiscoping like a madman this morning. With one of the earpieces in and one out I checked 2 places on the block, the pan, the timing cover, and the valve cover in the first 30 seconds and could not hear any sort of knocking through the stethiscope, while being able to hear the intermittent knocks through my exposed ear. Maybe this weekend I will pull the belts and do a quick run.

I'm going to laugh if it turns out to be one of the idler pulley's since they both were changed less than 1000 mi ago.
 
I just changed out the fuel filter this weekend when I replaced my alternator... don't know if it was reseting the computer with the battery out for so long or the fuel filter, but it idles around 600 a lot smoother now.
 
Back
Top Bottom