NLXTACY
Wits' End
Rock auto has for half
Help removing rear Locker actuator Service cover (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lp2k
- Start date
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lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
I got my Phillips screws out with heat, Deep Creep, and vice grips.
$415 is the the Rock Auto price. Unless you know something we don't. My link was for an LX, but the LC is the same.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
woah that went up a bunch!
They were on sale and were like $200 not long ago.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I'd offer you one of my cable lockers but A: I need to get off my ass and finish them. B: more expensive. So disregard haha
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
- Thread starter
- #32
So I couldn’t let this go, almost $450 for a new one (FML) as I just bought a lift kit.. so this morning I saw the comment to vice grip and use creep, well I couldn’t find my vice grips and I don’t have creep. I used an angle pliers and some PB Blaster and was able to remove the last JIS screw (I’m going to buy a set of these screwdrivers) was able to get the motor cover off and I’ll try to clean this up.
Forum pals, sorry to bother @LINUS @NLXTACY , I cant get this part to rotate or slide out, any advice on how to pull it out ?
It’s the part that connects to the shift fork. It moves easily on my parts actuator but not at all on the part I pulled off the truck
Forum pals, sorry to bother @LINUS @NLXTACY , I cant get this part to rotate or slide out, any advice on how to pull it out ?
It’s the part that connects to the shift fork. It moves easily on my parts actuator but not at all on the part I pulled off the truck
Looks like you're going to have to re-glue at least one magnet in the bell. Mine were all loose in both may actuators. Very common reason for failure. Not a big deal but takes a bit careful work with a compass.
The shaft that connects to the shift forks should come out pretty easy if all the gears are removed inside (you didn't show a pic of that angle). Can't think of what else would hold it in place other than the lower seal being a bit glued to the shaft. Nothing else should hold it in place though as far as my memory goes.
The shaft that connects to the shift forks should come out pretty easy if all the gears are removed inside (you didn't show a pic of that angle). Can't think of what else would hold it in place other than the lower seal being a bit glued to the shaft. Nothing else should hold it in place though as far as my memory goes.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks @CaptBeardilocks, I’ll try to review the write up and see if I can save $450 bucks. If so, I’ll buy the kit from wits end and call it good.
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Read it all VERY thoroughly. It's not incredibly difficult but a bit ... persnickety is how my Grandpa would have put it. Lol. Timing the gears upon reassembly is crucial. As is getting magnet polarity just right.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
- Thread starter
- #36
Any advice on this actuator rod @CaptBeardilocks ?? I can’t move it for the life of me and it’s soaking 24 hours in PB Blaster soup.
The inside is completely empty now? If the largest gear is out then I can't imagine what is keeping it in there. Maybe put thread a bolt into the side of the shaft and gently use that for leverage to try to rotate it. Rotating should (hopefully) break the grip of corrosion or whatever else is holding it.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
- Thread starter
- #38
This is what it looks like inside now, no gears I can see are holding the actuator rod, it just won’t budge. I did try to whack the rod with the brass hammer to see if I could free it but no dice @CaptBeardilocks :
It is almost certainly frozen in the case from corrosion. I’ve found heat works pretty well on these cases. MAP or propane. Don’t get the alloy seriously hot, but heated up. You can impart much more force in this instance by twisting on the rod than by pulling in it. Thread a longer bolt (or whatever you can find) through the threaded hole on the shaft and use that to rock the shaft back and forth. Occasionally tapping the end of the shaft with a hammer can’t hurt.
The white corrosion hangs on but can definitely be defeated.
The white corrosion hangs on but can definitely be defeated.
Agree with @CaptBeardilocks . Keep working it gently. I don't know if that seal is available in the kit from @NLXTACY , so be careful with how much heat you use there. The slide should slide smoothly at this point.
