Help..oil capacity!!!

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I wondered about sludge. That's actually one reason why I got the new oil pan. That and I was getting really low oil pressure. So I got a new oil pump and pan put on at a dealer. Oil pressure is great now, but I still only get 7 qts. in there.

I had the valve cover off several months back, and didn't see major sludge.

I've read a little about using Delo 15w-40 to clean out sludge (more detergents). Anybody had experience with doing that?


Before I pull an engine to rebuid it I drain off a quart or so of oil and add a two cans of Sea Foam or a quart of auto tranny fluid. I run it up to operating temperature and then shut it off. I do this cycle about three times.

When I drain the oil it looks like it came from a diesel motor. The carbon is much easier to remove as well.
 
I run Rotella-T 15w-40 diesel, farm oil all the time, due to the high detergents. The valve cover was off for valve adjustment, no sludge. I will try to fill the oil filter next time, before installing it.
I had thought that the only getting a bit over 7.5 qts. in was due to the oil cooler still having old oil in it?
 
Sounds like a great idea, D'Animal. Thanks for the tip.

A question: when you say you do that cycle three times, do you mean the drain a quart, add Seafoam/ATF, run to hot three times? Or just one drain and add Seafoam/ATF, then run it to hot and shut it off three times?

Any chance I might shake something loose that could get lodged and kill my oil pressure? Or would it be liquefied enough not to worry about? This thing's just now at 187K, so I'm hoping to wait a couple years before I have to rebuild.

Or until Santa Claus drops a 12H-T down my chimney.
 
drain a quart, add Seafoam/ATF, run to hot three times? Or just one drain and add Seafoam/ATF, then run it to hot and shut it off three times?

I drain the quart of oil and add the juice just once. I run it up to operating temperature and shut it off. I generally run to the gas station and back. I then let the rig sit and cool off. I will start it again and do the same thing.

The Sea Foam needs a little time to soak into the carbon and sludge so it can release it. That is why I let it sit for a bit.

If you check you oil between cycles you will notice it will get darker after each running. That means it is removing the sludge.
 
I drain the quart of oil and add the juice just once. I run it up to operating temperature and shut it off. I generally run to the gas station and back. I then let the rig sit and cool off. I will start it again and do the same thing.

The Sea Foam needs a little time to soak into the carbon and sludge so it can release it. That is why I let it sit for a bit.

If you check you oil between cycles you will notice it will get darker after each running. That means it is removing the sludge.

10-4, thanks for the clarification. I think I'm going to try this real soon.
 
10-4, thanks for the clarification. I think I'm going to try this real soon.

I was actually thinking on doing this before my next oil change. Adding a bottle of Sea Foam and drive it to and from work for a few days. I only have about 107k, but figure it would be good maintenance to keep things nice and clean.
 
Throw that thing in the bushes as far away from you as you can get it. Now throw some rocks at it and spit in it's direction!

Get a Haynes. You'll be surprised by how much you can do yourself if you just try. Oil changes aren't the only easy maintenance items. And even if you do go to a meachanic for easy stuff at least you can read about the work and know whats being done. It will help you know when a mechanic is BS'ing you or trying to do work thats not needed. :cheers:

Haynes.....just bought one. I spit on chiltons, threw it and than rocks followed. The poeple next door were looking at me like I had lost my mind....thats ok nothing new.:)
 
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FWIW

Engine Oil Capacity (1987 FJ60 owners manual):

2F Engine
Dry Fill 8.5 qt.
Drain & Refill
with filter 8.2 qt.
without filter 7.4 qt.

3B Engine
Dry Fill 7.7 qt.
Drain & Refill
with filter 7.1 qt.
without filter 6.1 qt.

2H Engine
Dry Fill 13.7 qt.
Drain & Refill
with filter 11.3 qt.
without filter 9.6 qt.




William
 
For the OP, the correct answer is 8.2. I always put in 2 gallons and call it good. 5 quarts is 3 quarts underfilled-I hope no damage was done when run. Have fun. And I agree that Chilton's is good for lining the bird cage only-total trash. Hayes is only slightly better. If you have plans to drive teh FJ60 long term, get a factory service manual and avoid stupid mistakes like filling 5 quarts in an 8 quart sump.
 
For the OP, the correct answer is 8.2. I always put in 2 gallons and call it good. 5 quarts is 3 quarts underfilled-I hope no damage was done when run. Have fun. And I agree that Chilton's is good for lining the bird cage only-total trash. Hayes is only slightly better. If you have plans to drive teh FJ60 long term, get a factory service manual and avoid stupid mistakes like filling 5 quarts in an 8 quart sump.



Ditto...2 gals of 10w-40
 
Welcome! Good to hear you are diving in. Best way to learn for me. I'm still very much learning. 'MUD is a great resource and people in general are pretty patient with basic questions (I ask a lot of them). I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND the Factory Service Manuals (FSM). If you plan on keeping your land cruiser, get the FSMs. I found Haynes basically worthless. The whole engine / driveline seemed pretty daunting to me at first but as you get familiar with different parts of it, it suddenly becomes a lot less complex. Having the FSMs and 'MUD has gottne me pretty far. That and a basic set of sockets and wrenches. I knew nothing when I started. Still don't know much but know a lot more than I did.

Putting your vehicle year and model in your signature helps people remember what you have. Post up some pics! Good luck. These engines can apparently take some abuse.

:beer: Chad

PS Don't forget to replace the gear oil and always make sure you can get the fill plug off before getting the drain plug out.

diffs: 2.6 quarts
tranny: 3.3 quarts
t-case: 2.6 quarts
 
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I wondered about sludge. That's actually one reason why I got the new oil pan. That and I was getting really low oil pressure. So I got a new oil pump and pan put on at a dealer. Oil pressure is great now, but I still only get 7 qts. in there.

I had the valve cover off several months back, and didn't see major sludge.

I've read a little about using Delo 15w-40 to clean out sludge (more detergents). Anybody had experience with doing that?
Best way to clean the interior engine is to drain 4 quarts of old oil close the drain plug. Pour 4 quarts of transmission fluid, drive for a day or two..drain when engine is hot. See all that sludge come pouring out..no worries, the transmission fluid won't harm your engine..any old land cruisers I have bought, cleaned it this way. When you refill, use proper viscosity oil according to prevailing temperatures..
 
Best way to clean the interior engine is to drain 4 quarts of old oil close the drain plug. Pour 4 quarts of transmission fluid, drive for a day or two..drain when engine is hot. See all that sludge come pouring out..no worries, the transmission fluid won't harm your engine..any old land cruisers I have bought, cleaned it this way. When you refill, use proper viscosity oil according to prevailing temperatures..


This is bad advice Ashok. No one should do this ever. It's an old wives tale at best but basically a stupid idea. Run motor oil in your engine. It's built to run with a lube fill of motor oil. Put the ATF in your transmission.
 
Some interesting discussion...ive been known to throw diesel in the block on older motors for a quick flush out. Makes them sparkly clean. Then again I've tossed bon ami down carbs to reduce ring blowby...meh...ymmv but I've had some luck with it. Kinda old school, maybe just mechanics tales but proof is in the pudding for me.
 
The first time I replaced the oil in my 40 (long time ago), I swore the thing had the wrong dipstick.
 
This is bad advice Ashok. No one should do this ever. It's an old wives tale at best but basically a stupid idea. Run motor oil in your engine. It's built to run with a lube fill of motor oil. Put the ATF in your transmission.
I too was skeptical, then this engineer friend told me to use transmission fluid as it has more detergent power. It is after all an oil and if it can keep the transmission safe and sludge free it will keep the engine free of sludge. I have had 5 land cruisers, 3 land rovers in past 18 years and all of them got the the same treatment as all had poor circulation and poor oil pressure readings..rattling lifters..hotter engines after each use. all such problems solved. Google this method some time please. I actually still have one 1989 land cruiser fj60 and one 1962 Land Rover 88 11A in my garage both 1/2 turn on crank start.
 
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