- Thread starter
- #21
The MG is back with them getting fixed and will be home soon. The truck ran great with it. The ohm meter jumped from 00.0 to 133.0 with the neg stick on the screw post and the pos stick( red one ) on the alt housing.
HELP, fusible link saga, part 2
- Thread starter RCSTOVER
- Start date
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You are looking for a wiring or connection coming straight off the battery through the fusible leak which is in contact or touching chassis ground (negative terminal). You are basically touching the two wire coming off each side of the battery together and the fusible leak blew to keep you from damaging something else.
Switch the leads and measure it again. Look at the wiring diagram and see if it makes sense.
- Thread starter
- #24
OK, I will start at the positive post and start looking for fried or worn wires. Should I unraved the tape on the harness or will it be obvious? Since everything else is working I will stick to the white C wire.
- Thread starter
- #25
Switched the leads and the meter stabilzed at 00.5
Sounds like your got a short in your alternator. Remove all the wiring from the alternator and put the positive lead on the post and negative lead on the alternator housing. You got a short in it if you are measuring zero ohms. This was your original alternator that you had in there before the MG that was working? Then you hooked up the MG and put the cables wrong so had to take back it to get it fixed? So you put back in the original one and the fusible leak blew again?
I couldn't find a schematic of the 62 wiring. Maybe someone with a 62 can show you some pictures of the back or take some measurements to compare.
I couldn't find a schematic of the 62 wiring. Maybe someone with a 62 can show you some pictures of the back or take some measurements to compare.
- Thread starter
- #27
You were rightabout the alt. It has a serious short somewhere. I had it tested at Napa and Advanced Auto and it blew both of their fuses when they connected the ground to the alt housing. Tested the other wiring like you told me to and it is fine. I did find a short at the heater blower motor and took it off the curcuit. SO, The MG will be back soon, got another fusible link, and I guess I will have to spring for a new blower motor. The brushes are totally shot and may have been causing the motor to draw too much. Thanks for your help though, I have learned quite alot about trouble shooting electrical problems and what the hell you use a multi meter for.
Good to hear you got it figured out. The heater blower motor should not measure a lot of resistance measuring across the two leads so it might be fine. I would just leave it off like you said until you know it it is fine.
