HELP, fusible link saga, part 2

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Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Threads
5
Messages
33
Location
Jacksonville, FL.
I recieved my new fusible link today from the dealership here in Jacksonville, which must have been magic since the parts guy told me it was on national backorder yesterday and would have to ship from Japan. Anyhow, I checked all the wiring on the C loop with the FSM diagrams, checked the stock alt , checked the FL plug blades on the downside, and checked the battery ground. Looked good to go, so I swapped in the new fusible link, screwed everything down, put on the neg. termial at the battery, and POP. Fresh smoke from the C wire fusible link. What am I doing wrong? :bang:
 
You got a major short. You have a multimeter? We talking FJ60 or 62? What happen when it blew before? Any other symptoms?
 
I do have a meter. Orginally I was messing about with the MG alt I had in there, shorted it out by forgetting to disconnect the battery. I had the reman ND alt the truck came with, so I swapped them out and shorted the link when I reconnected the battery. The truck is a FJ62, and I truely don't know what I am doing wrong.
 
The wiring going to the back of the alternator is not grounded? Use your meter and measure resistance with the battery disconnect or out of the cruiser. The resistance should measure Infinite or open between the lead and the alternator housing. Did the mean green come with an adapter plug or is the plug the same?

Also if you have a camera take a picture of the back of the alternator and post it. It is not necessary but could help.
 
Do you think this could be an idivdual ground issue, or the alt. The truck runs fine, but nothing on the C wire curcuit works, including the tail lights. No blown fuses or relays. Battery is at 11.55 V. I did find the connectors at the heater blower motor were fried and fixed that. Any ideas you have will be pursued.
 
What is on the C wiring circuit? Do you have schematic? You can start ruling stuff out. Could be a blow tail light that somehow shorted. Does your alternator voltage stay up while it is running?
 
The alt has two wires coming out of the back. One is the screw on ground, and the other is the plug assembly. Is there another ground? Both wires go up into the wiring harness. Where should I check and should the battery be hooked up, running or not running engine?
 
I have the FSM. The schematic shows a bunch of stuff on the C curcuit, none of it works. Clock, intrument lights, door locks, inside lighting, tail lights, brake lights, markers, and the radio. Plus the AC/heater. The alt voltage seems to be stable, but it maybe low.
 
Disconnect the battery and measure resistance between the alternator housing and the screw on which you think is ground. The alternator housing is grounded through the metal bracket bolted to the engine.
 
The voltage on the battery while it is running should be around 13-14V if the alternator is working right.
 
The alternator is not working with 11.55V. I don't think it can with the fusible link blown. You want the meter on resistance or ohms Ω scale. AC is for measure a voltage.
 
The battery standing alone is reading 11.92

That is a little low. You might want to stick it on a charger after you are done figuring out the problem but that is fine. It should come up to around 13.5V when the cruiser is running. So your problem is still a short which caused the fusible link to blow which is causing your alternator not to work.
 
In the ohms setting the meter is jumping around, what should it read?

If it is jumping around zero, then there is continuity or that is a short. Somethings should be grounded like the alternator housing and the negative terminal that goes on the battery You still have the new MG alternator installed?
 
OK, so I assume the short is between the alt and the battery, How do I go about looking for it and what am I looking for. I have a 07 Tacoma and a KTM to get around on, so I can give the truck plenty of time. By the way, Thank you! The guys on this Forum are far more help than any dealership I have ever been in.
 

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