Help fixing my HJ45 body after sandblast/epoxy primered

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Joined
Nov 19, 2013
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Location
Melbourne, Florida
Hey guys,

Doing a full frame off for a Alaska and beyond journey for hopefully this coming June. I just got the body back after it was sand blasted/epoxy primered.

Here is what I am thinking generically my plan is to get this body ready to be top coated (doing myself as well) and put back on the frame, but I need information from anyone on here that has done extensive body work with good results or can fill me in on details that I may be missing or need to do from their knowledge or experience.

1. Cut and weld in pieces of new sheet steel in large surface areas (Such as the floor plans)

2. For the inner part of the tub and underneath the tub I was going to fiberglass mat/resin any damage, sand down, and the top/underneath of the tub line-x afterwards. I have a buddy that works at a line-x shop that is going to give me a incredible deal and I think this would offer the best protection. I can fiberglass mat/resin the damaged parts of the tub and after the line-x you should not even be able to tell. This should also protect it better then anything else for rust.

3. I am concerned on what to do for the small pin holes around the body and places where the body bends in ways that might be challenging for me to cut out and replace the sheet metal. The only way I can think of to fix the spots where the sheet metal is curve or hard to match via cutting out templates and welding in new pieces is to use fiber glass mat/resin, sand down, and epoxy primer/top over it. Is there any compound I can layer on besides just bondo that can fill in the pin holes where the sheet steel is thin?

Any thoughts of the best way to tackle this beast? Mind you this is not show room or factory quality expected here. This is a off-road vehicle and I am building it with the intent of it being functional, not purely for its looks. I want it to be decent looking and robust in the sense that future rust will be kept at bay.

I was thinking of using some of these products, they look good:

- Duraglas® Fiberglass Filled Filler: http://www.amazon.com/Duraglas-Fiberglass-Body-Filler-Putty/dp/B003BW9XPW

- USC Fiberglass Repair Kit- Cloth: http://www.eastwood.com/usc-fiberglass-repair-kit-cloth.html?reltype=3
 
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The best thing to use where you have pinholes and it would be difficult weld in new metal is the short strand Fiberglass bondo filler. It is fiberglass which is much more waterproof than polyester filler ( regular bondo).
It can provide a decent repair in non-structural areas where you are filling pinholes. I would not use polyester body filler anywhere for rust repair. It is a body filler only and any moisture that gets behind it will bubble it right off in time, especially in your climate.
 
The best thing to use where you have pinholes and it would be difficult weld in new metal is the short strand Fiberglass bondo filler. It is fiberglass which is much more waterproof than polyester filler ( regular bondo).
It can provide a decent repair in non-structural areas where you are filling pinholes. I would not use polyester body filler anywhere for rust repair. It is a body filler only and any moisture that gets behind it will bubble it right off in time, especially in your climate.

Funny you say that I went on to use fiber resin/mat, short strand fiberglass Bondo paste, and 3M Platinum body filler.
 
post some pics as you progress
 

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