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Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Threads
3
Messages
17
Location
Alberta Canada
Hey everyone,

So last night I noticed a puddle on the ground under my landcruiser. At first I though maybe my rack was leaking but after looking under the truck the fluid is coming from the front right shock.

I have read that this can be a sign of bad accumulators but if I do the gradient test my accumulators seem superb.

It seems too much to be a coincidence but a few weeks ago I adjusted the torsion bar a bit lower on that side to level out the suspension so I'm wondering if I inadvertently raised the pressure too much in that side.

What do you guys think - did I likely damage the shock seals with too much pressure or will I be ok if I crank it back up?
 
Get tech stream to get your actual pressure.
What's your milage/yr? It might be a spontaneous failure. Might be a seal.

My shock appeared to be wet looking but never pooled up like you described. I had mine replaced, flushed my suspension fluid and checked my pressures. No more problems here.
Search ahc.
 
Hey everyone,

So last night I noticed a puddle on the ground under my landcruiser. At first I though maybe my rack was leaking but after looking under the truck the fluid is coming from the front right shock.

I have read that this can be a sign of bad accumulators but if I do the gradient test my accumulators seem superb.

It seems too much to be a coincidence but a few weeks ago I adjusted the torsion bar a bit lower on that side to level out the suspension so I'm wondering if I inadvertently raised the pressure too much in that side.

What do you guys think - did I likely damage the shock seals with too much pressure or will I be ok if I crank it back up?
Same pressure on both sides as they are hydraulically connected. Leaking has nothing to do with your damper accumulators, unless one has managed to loosen itself and then that would be the obvious origin.
First step is to clean up/degrease around the shock actuator body (don't spray degreaser on the polished actuator shaft itself) and try and determine if the leak is coming from the O ring at the top connector, the flex line or the actuator's shaft seals. You'll need to read and adjust your front/rear pressures with Techstream or a gauge too as "adjusting the torsion bar a bit lower to level out the suspension" isn't really a plan - maybe the lower side needed tightening and lifting to level? Weeping shaft seals usually self correct with your front pressure lowered to around 6.9MPa unless they've been chewed out with grit or internal contamination and if that's the case you'll need to replace the shock actuator. If it's just the O ring and packer they are easy to change.
 
Thanks for the replies,

I was hoping that you would chime in Paddo.

Yes, I realize blindly adjusting the torsion bars to level perhaps wasn't the best idea. It appeared that it was cracked up to the max on one side and much less on the other side so that's why I tried to even them out as it was sitting at least an inch lower on one side. I have considered getting a tech stream but what has stopped me so far is the fact that I don't think they can be run off of a mac which is what I have but maybe I need to bite the bullet and figure something out.

As you suggest, I will now attempt to detect where the leak is coming from - at first glance it appeared to be right from the shaft - no oil above - but I will get it really clean and double check.

If I do end up having to replace the shock actuator, I assume they should be done in sets just like traditional shocks?
 
If you need to replace a front shock actuator I'd go ahead and do both sides, particularly if you're DIY as they can be purchased for only about $180 US, primarily for the new bushings and upper cushions. The damping happens at the remote damping accumulator assembly so it's not technically necessary to "match" with new as you would with a conventional shock. Two x new front actuator's, with their bushings + cushions and call it good for another 10-15 years :)
 
Thanks for the replies,

I was hoping that you would chime in Paddo.

Yes, I realize blindly adjusting the torsion bars to level perhaps wasn't the best idea. It appeared that it was cracked up to the max on one side and much less on the other side so that's why I tried to even them out as it was sitting at least an inch lower on one side. I have considered getting a tech stream but what has stopped me so far is the fact that I don't think they can be run off of a mac which is what I have but maybe I need to bite the bullet and figure something out.

As you suggest, I will now attempt to detect where the leak is coming from - at first glance it appeared to be right from the shaft - no oil above - but I will get it really clean and double check.

If I do end up having to replace the shock actuator, I assume they should be done in sets just like traditional shocks?

I also have a MAC. I found a Dell on flea-bay for $30 that I use specifically for TechStream..... Just a thought.
 
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