HELP! A442f throttle adjustments (1 Viewer)

[DBWood]

So, I was having issues with my A442f shifting, it was a little rough from 2-3rd, and 3-4th. I tried the Kickdown cable, and no change. So, I adjusted the first throttle cable outside the firewall about 1/4inch (the one under the black cover on the RHS) and it shifted much better. Not being one to leave well enough alone, I tried to get it "better" and started tinkering some more, I tried the second adjustment at the top of the turbo. Now, it wont shift properly at all!
I am not much of a mechanic, and I live on a tiny little island, so I dont have access to any really great help. Other than here on Mud....

My rig is a '91 HDJ81, 1hdt, A442f.

I am thinking if one of you guys with the same rig could let me know where your cables are set (all 3 adjustment points) the one outside the firewall, the one above the turbo and the kickdown, MAYBE I would be able to at least get back to some sort of starting point. I have been playing with it for 2 hours and can't get back to normal.....

Any help will be much appreciated!

 

[Cancruiser]

A picture of the cables that you are interested in adjusting may help. I can then post a picture of the same cables from my setup for comparison..

 

[DBWood]

Hey Cancruiser,

Thanks for answering so quickly. I won't be able to post up some pics until the morning, But will appreciate your help.

Doug

 

[DBWood]

Hey Cancruiser,

Some pics.
The first one is outside the firewall on the driver's side. The black cover is removed, this is the first adjustment point on top of the cruise control, then the cable crosses over the motor to the right of the turbo (pic #2) and goes down to the kickdown (pic #3).
Any help is appreciated!

 

[Cancruiser]

Here you go.. All 3 pictures..
The only cable I had to adjust when I had the hard shifting was the one in pic #3 (the kickdown cable). As you can see, I have the ferrule on the cable almost touching the red stop. I found it shifts better this way. Not the best, but much better.
Which one of these cables did you play with and caused your problems?

Hope this helps..

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Other than reducing the slack in the throttle cables, the kick down cable is the only one that will affect shift points on the hydraulic A442F. The kickdown cable is the one with the orange boot and the small bead.

Adjust the cable so that the bead is about 1 - 2 mm from the stop (orange boot).

Tighter = later harder shifts
Looser = early soft shifts

Early soft shifts are hard on the clutches in the trans, as there is too much flaring and clutch rubbing.

Firm shifts are what you want.

The adjustment can be quite sensitive to slight changes.

Make sure your trans fluid is in good shape, not burned smelling or discoloured.

~John

 

[DBWood]

Hey Guys,

Did not get a chance to work on the rig over the weekend. Too much "work" to do...
Going out this morning to try to sort this out. I may have been making too large adjustments as Radd has pointed out it doesn't take alot.

Will report back later.

Thanks for the help.

 

[DBWood]

So,

Radd, thanks for your time on Tuesday. Still no luck. I have made small adjustments from one end of kickdown to the other and truck is still shifting exactly the same.... (1-2 shift at 40kmh/3400rpm, 2-3 shift at 75-80kmh/3400rpm, cant reach 4th gear...)

Adjusted the throttle cables so there is no slack, and the kickdown is at full extension once the throttle is also at full.

Trans fluid looks/smells good.

Should I be considering a rebuild? Or valvebody?

It would be a huge coincidence if the tranny was working well, then went bad at the exact moment that I made a couple of minute adjustments?

Could it be something at the other end of the kickdowm inside the tranny?

Desperate!!

On a side note, Radd, were you able to find any info on the radiator for the 1KZ-TE engine? If I had that, then would be more mobile again. She hates driving my DD-work truck (F250 Super Duty 4x4, V10....)

Thanks for the help guys

 

[SHREDwagon]

Hey Doug - Would suggest:
1. Not to state the obvious, check ATF level. I find it's very finicky and needs to be topped up after a warm-up drive
2. try adjusting the cables with the engine running/neutral until you here the engine rpm start to rev higher. Then loosen it off a bit. Start with all cables as per Cancruiser. After those are nice and firm, then do the kickdown cable last until she revs.

If that doesn't solve it, test your solenoid...linkage on Intake Manifold..... Good luck!

 

[DBWood]

Hey Shred,

Thanks for your input. We have tried ALL the obvious things. Radd was kind enough to spend some time on the phone with me going over it.
Ended up on the phone with Rodney for a while. He is sending me a couple of gasket kits.

Basically, he figures that since my rig only has 150k on it, my fluid is nice and clean (and correct level), all the adjustments are where they should be, AND the tranny started acting up IMMEDIATELY after I made adjustments to the throttle/kickdown, he thinks I may have spun one of the plungers in the valve body. So once I have the gasket kits I will pull the valve body and inspect.

He says that if I had pulled the kickdown tight, and then let it go to quickly (I did disconnect it when I was adjusting at one point), that could have caused the kickdown to snap back too quickly and spin a plunger.

Really hoping that is the problem....

Will let you all know what I find when I get it apart. Don't want to start without the parts, which could take some time getting to my little rock in the middle of the Atlantic.

 

[DBWood]

Hey Guys,

So, I finally got the truck to the shop and valve body pulled.

The gaskets were all obviously very brittle (Thanks to Rodney for sending new ones).

What we found,

There are 3 large spring loaded valves(?), someone can correct me, that go up and down, 2 are on one side of the VB, and the 3rd is at one end.

The outside wall of the gasket beside the two large valves was missing about 1 inch on both valves. Allowing pressure to escape out of the VB into the pan, instead of where it was supposed to be.
So, they cleaned everything really well, put all the new gaskets in, and !!

$70 worth of gaskets, and probably a decent labor bill (I haven't paid yet)

It is running like new! Maybe I should drive it more before I get excited though....

 

[djsherif]

I adjusted mine like your third Pic cancruiser and now it shifts like butter.....amazing, thank you. Now id i could only figure out why my cruise wont do anything!

 

[Ro Land]

Here you go.. All 3 pictures..
The only cable I had to adjust when I had the hard shifting was the one in pic #3 (the kickdown cable). As you can see, I have the ferrule on the cable almost touching the red stop. I found it shifts better this way. Not the best, but much better.
Which one of these cables did you play with and caused your problems?

Hope this helps..
View attachment 516637View attachment 516641View attachment 516642

Hey, I know it's an older thread, however. I had shifting issues all of a sudden.
After consulting on here I:
Adjusted idle to 800 (I have the turbodiesel)
Corrected the fluid level of my A442
Adjusted the kickdown cable
Result: smoother (not brutal anymore) shifting and when it had trouble with first and OD before it now does not.

Thank you guys, you are amazing!

 

[MUDZLLA]

Adjust the cable so that the bead is about 1 - 2 mm from the stop (orange boot).

what is the "bead" in this context?

 

[Ro Land]

It's

what is the "bead" in this context?

That little thicker part on the cable, you see it right in front of the red cap. It's like a stop and an adjustment measurement point.