HELP: 2000 LC Rear axle bearing pull

Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Messages
7
Location
Fort Collins
Hey all,

Working on replacing the bearing and seals in my drivers side rear axle of a 2000 LC. Fort Collins dealer quoted $300 to remove and press new bearing... with the axle already out of the truck...

Anyone in the area have a SST or homebrew tool to pull the bearing? Or have a recommendation for a local, reasonable shop?

Thanks everyone!
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Fort Collins
Hey man, I assume you'll be replacing the oil seal with new? If so, you should be able to use a regular old seal removal claw tool. It will deform the seal, so def replace with new.

As for removing the bearing from the bearing case. You'll need to remove the bearing case from the backing plate first (after the oil seal has been removed). I've had luck in the past using a ball joint removal tool cup (the metal sleeve that you press the bj into) that the local autoparts stores rent out. Just make sure you align the cup to the race so you don't damage the bearing. Use a dead blow hammer to pound it out.

Also, I assume you have the FSM for the 100 series?

exploded.jpg


SST.jpg
 
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Messages
7
Location
Fort Collins
Thanks @willbt ! Appreciate your response and providing pages from the manual.

After further inspection, I'm starting to second guess whether the bearing requires replacement. Of course I could be biased to either the cost of the dealer removing/installing or the effort required to take care of it myself. There is currently zero play in the existing bearing (at least to my eye). I've attached a couple pics of the bearing but I need to remove the hub tonight to inspect the outer oil seal. Any thoughts on more thoroughly inspecting seals to determine if just replacing the seals is adequate?

Thanks for your help!

IMG_1202.JPG


IMG_1203.JPG
 
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Joined
Oct 23, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Fort Collins
The rear axle bearings are sealed, so you can't repack them like the fronts (as far as I know anyway). If there seems to be no play, you're probably good. Check the oil seal for scoring or cracks or oily dirt caked on there. If they look good, they probably are.

Why were you planning on replacing these? Were they making noise?
 
Joined
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Messages
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I started out by thinking that I had a leaking rear caliper.. lots of fluid/grease/caked $hit all over the rear hub, rotor, backing plate, etc. Fluid wasn't too low so I started waffling around assuming that if it was a leaking caliper that it fluid would have been crazy low. Assumed next issue would have been an oil seal. Diff fluid hadn't been changed in quite a while and it was much thinner than I would have expected.

I obviously haven't been into the rear axle of my 100 yet, but if I'm looking at the FSM right, to inspect the outer oil seal I need to remove the axle from the backing plate which requires an SST?? Am I missing something or overcomplicating this? What's the best way to get to the outer oil seal without an SST?

Definitely replacing the inner seal and o-ring while I'm in there.

Thanks again for your help!


The rear axle bearings are sealed, so you can't repack them like the fronts (as far as I know anyway). If there seems to be no play, you're probably good. Check the oil seal for scoring or cracks or oily dirt caked on there. If they look good, they probably are.

Why were you planning on replacing these? Were they making noise?
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Fort Collins
To view the outer oil seal, you need to remove the axle and for that you will need a press. Check the inner oil seal to see if diff fluid was what was leaking.

Check out this video, it's not a 100, but the 4runner's rear axle is similar. This should give you an idea.

 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
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I don't know if you've given up or have taken it into Pedersen to have them press the axle out, but I wanted to show you this. Here is the alternative to not using a press to remove the axle. It's definitely possible, but I wouldn't recommend doing it this way for risk of damaging the splines.

You can see at about 6:15 just how easy it is to remove the outer oil seal (that what I was referring to when I said the claw oil seal remover tool). Then right after that (around 6:25) you can see that he uses a large socket to press out the bearing... This is what I referred to when I mentioned using a Ball Joint cup.

Good luck man!

 
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