Heater blows cold (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 4, 2009
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Idaho-208
Its the middle of winter and its as cold inside as it is outside with the heater on at operating temperature.
I bought a new thermostat from Napa, back flushed cooling system and burped it. Still cold air...
I boiled the old t-stat (oem toyota part) and found it is working condition. There are no leaks under the dash from what I could tell from the heater core. I also checked the heater control valve on the fire wall to make sure it was operating correctly, it is. So now I'm stumped.
Awhile back I noticed a gurgle sound from under the right center of the dash and am now thinking the heater core is not operating correctly?
I called a local radiator shop and they can power flush it for $60..but there are no guarantees and it's $60.
I've read up on other posts of similar problems and am guessing that is the problem? Seconds?
(1995 Toyota Tacoma 2wd 4 cylinder)
I am thankful for my fj60 that blows fire from the air vents right now!!!!
 
Id take the heater core out and flush it yourself...thats easy right!! lol

being a newer truck are you sure the blend door is moving to let the hot air come towards you?

I have that problem with my 85 GTS I had to wire open the door so the hot air would come out of the case.

you should be able to see it from the passenger side of the cab Id think..have someone move the heat/air knob/switch and see if its moving anything...I dont know if those are vacuum? cable? electric?
 
Double check that the door that 85+92 is talking about. When you turn the heat control from hot to cold and back 2 things should happen, the valve on the firewall should open and close and the door in the heating system should swing back and forth. You should be able to hear it open and close under the dash...

If that's good, then your heater core is probably plugged up... You can try to back flush the core again, or put some muriadic acid through it, but the only real solution is to change the heater core out... Which is not a very fun job...
 
before I would rip out or flush the heater core....
how do the lines in and out of the firewall feel when the engine is warmed up?

both lines hot and same temp? as in coolant is circulating through block heater but not transferring heat to the cab.

neither hot? as in no circulation through the heater core.. maybe plugged or air locked
 
before I would rip out or flush the heater core....
how do the lines in and out of the firewall feel when the engine is warmed up?

both lines hot and same temp? as in coolant is circulating through block heater but not transferring heat to the cab.

neither hot? as in no circulation through the heater core.. maybe plugged or air locked

You can stick a garden hose in those inlet/outlets and flush them out that way.

But before you do that, why did you replace the thermostat in the 1st place? Were you overheating? Have you been loosing coolant?
 
The right side hose of the heater control valve is a little hotter than the left side hose.
I replaced the t-stat thinking it might have been the problem because I've never replaced it and figured that would be a good place to start. Well it wasn't so now I have an extra t-stat!
The cable to the control valve moves the lever so I'm guessing it works correctly. When I slide the interior hot/cold lever I don't hear any said door opening. Where abouts is said door in the cab? I did notice a few months ago the temperature was starting to get cooler but it was the summer too so I'm not exactly sure when this started to develop.
To trouble shoot the heater control valve on the fire wall could I use a straight pipe to connect the two hoses and bypass it?
Thanks for all the ideas! Gotta love this forum
 
So it looks like the water pump isn't working correctly. I gave up on trouble shooting and took it to a redneck shop...no flow...upon further investigation the clutch fan is a bit wobbly too.. this should be fun..
 
I've also discovered, I think, that my water pump is also on the verge of failure. I keep losing a mad amount of coolant and pump failure is the only thing I can figure would cause something like that to happen. Nothing like a water pump replacement right at the holidays, and in 24 degree weather! W00T!
 
Sucks!!! I'm not losing any coolant I just don't have any going to the heater control valve? At the shop it's at the guy took the hose off started the truck and nothing came out. I'm not sure that working on it outside is worth the saving $135 in labor...
 
Yeah I'm double-checking the radiator to ensure it's not the source of the leak then going for the water pump. Problem is I need a SST to get at the pump, so being it's likely only a one-time use for the tool I'm going to bite the bullet and pay someone else to do it. Only if it's the pump. If it's the radiator, I can certainly swap that out. Either way, along with you I'm out some unanticipated $$ this week. Doh!
 

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