Heated Seat Light Issue

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Just had this problem on my 2011. After replacing the switch with an OEM one, the light stayed on still even after turning it on and off several times.

Took apart the passenger kick panel, inspected the connector mentioned in previous posts, and found corrosion.

The light finally went off after cleaning off the corrosion with contact cleaner. Snaked the moonroof drain holes with grass trimmer line and applied dielectric grease to the connector to hopefully prevent this from happening again.

Thanks to everyone for all the helpful tips.
@Ponny thanks for reporting back. I’m ordering a new switch on ebay and I also took a look at all the electrical components in the passenger side footwell below the glovebox. I’ll clean the terminals and all the dust that’s been building in there. What kind of contact cleaner did you use? Thanks for your help.
 
Just to Chime in here, just solved this issue on my wife’s 2008. The PO had a Rhino Rack Backbone and rack installed and the installer never used the butyl tape under the feet of the backbone. She had a dead battery after a long weekend, and mentioned the seat heater light was always on. When I started removing the lower shroud to the fuse panel and the passenger kick panel I found a lake….later that day I dug out the hose and started spraying things down till i found the problem. Two of the mounting bolts for the rack were never even installed, butyl tape not used, supplied mounting hardware was not used, and it looked as though whatever could be scrounged was used to put the rack on, and everything was coated in silicon. There was water pouring out of the rear passenger vent, down the A and B pillar right onto the connectors under the kick panel.

Took 2 days to repair all the mess that was made to the roof. Luckily none of the nut clips had been broken so I didn’t have to drop the headliner. Let everything dry out and then hit all the connectors with Deoxit Gold and then a coating of Corrosion X to semi waterproof them….

Seat heater light has been out since, works as advertised, and the rack makes way less noise….(all the hardware that was installed was not even tight)

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Do you have any pics of your butyl tape installation? I've been debating removing my roof rack, wondering if taping would work to install the roof rack blank out parts to avoid leaks?
 
Do you have any pics of your butyl tape installation? I've been debating removing my roof rack, wondering if taping would work to install the roof rack blank out parts to avoid leaks?
I'll take a few picks of afterwords, it squishes out quite a bit, I ordered some on Amazon, cut 1.5 inch "patches" to fit around each of the nutplate holes as shown in the backbone install directions. I punched holes in it using a 6mm Socket and a hammer on a wood block. Didn't have any tubing around to sharpen and make a real hole cutter, the socket when smacked hard enough cut cleanly through the Butyl tape and paper backer. the slots in the backbone are oblong, and when tightening down it squishes out into the gap around the bolt and seals up around the bolt.

If your dealing with a Rhino Backbone, the install is a bit of a pain in the %ss, as the slots cut into it for a tool dont align even close as it tightens up. I had to cut off a 6mm hex to fit in from the side to really tighten them. I think that may be why the original wasn't secured properly. Either way, I let the backbone sit and settle for two days before putting the rest of the rack back on, going over each bolt and tightening in the morning and at night as the butyl settled. I never got much more than 1/4 turn tighter each time and after 2 days I figured she was secure enough. Took it to the car wash and high pressure soaked each joint for a minute to check for leaks and so far so good.

I'll get some pics this afternoon.

Butyl tape on Amazon
Deoxit Gold Amazon
Corrosion X Amazon
 
Pics of the butyl tape and it squishing out around the mount/bolt head. Cut a piece you think is long enough…..the mount bolts are 8mm, a 6mm socket was just under 8mm outer diameter so I just smacked it with a hammer to cut through the butyl and make a really nice round hole

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