I put in a new hardwood floor. When putting the toilet back in the bathroom where the new floor is th distance from the down pipe to the toilet base has changed
2 questions
1.can i put 2 wax rings together to get the desired height? also when doing the i am about 1/4 inch higher in the rear. should i heat this thing up or just sit on it and move it around.
2. My johnny bolts taht come from the flange through the toilet were bad. the flange is pretty much destryod. I put a new base of plywood down before the hardwood. Can i put lag bolts from the top down through toilet to my new floor base instead of replacing that entire flange?
2 wax rings will work, just make sure you seal it really well and don't have gaps! the rings squish down. have a 3rd on hand just in case you mess up, they are gooey.
I don't see why you can't use the lag bolts, all it's doing is holding the toilet down.
hardwood floor in the bathroom? hope it's sealed wood!
I changed a toilet and went thru some similar things.
i'm no plumber but when i set a turlet i use duce wax rings all the time. also i get the longer bolts that fit the flange and cut them down when done use shims if need be to level the deal. but thats me and i'm in the remodeling world of building new stuff to look old...
maybe b/c mine is a Toto dual flush, the mounting is different but 2 wax rings seemed 'just right'. one wax ring seemed ... dangerous meaning I didn't want that smell leaking!
If you have to re-position, I think it's better to put a new wax ring on and pull off the dirty one (well, as much of it as you can)... no pro, just a diy. It's going strong 1 year later
well i had 3 wax rings of different hieghts trying to make it work. Had i known there was a riser i wouldhave just done that. I ended up usinga standard size then a "jumbo size, each had the nice funnel part too.
they worked. we will see how they hold up. One thing is for sure that the Lag bolts worked GREAT. I did pilot holes for them them slowley worked them down. The toiled had about and 1/8 of an inch to settle in the rear and the bolts snugged it down perfectly.
When I double wax seal I use a horned seal ontop of a unhorned ring, keeps then from sliding around. I don't like the stacked spacer kits to raise the flange because they rely on caulk to seal the spacer to the flange.
If your flange is bad what's holding the pipe in place? If you have access to under the toilet you can cut the pipe and set a new flange and furnco couple it to the old pipe. that way you have a new flange to screw down to the new floor at the right height.
Knew a guy that within a few months after finishing his new house (his teenage girls were using a space heater in the morning while using the head & taking a shower) he began to notice a water stain on the ceiling (kitchen area) downstairs.
After checking every possible avenue he could think of he finally decided to pop the head & found the wax ring in essence had been melted to the point of leaking water on every flush.
I would agree with Kevin's coment -- You did replace the flange when redoing the subfloor didn't you? If not why? You definitely need a good seal to the head pipe if not you could have a leak that would be very difficult to diagnose and track down.
Personal preference I usually use the standard ring and occasionally use the oversized but I never stack them.
The flange was good in as much as it wasnt moving. The only thing wrong witht he flange was the bolts for the base of the toilet were hammered and wouldnt hold. I have an unfinised basement and was under the head yesterday and it looks sealed really really well. It just took taking one board off to see up there well, should have looked closer earlier in the install.
meaning I didn't want that smell leaking! 
