Hardwire Dashcam (1 Viewer)

[elcie200]

How did you route cable to the rear window camera?

Specifically, did anyone do any high speed routing through the black rubber conduit with the third brake light power, etc?

when I wired my rear dash cam, I went from the mirror/windshield camera
- down the passenger A-pillar (behind the airbag)
- under the front door sill plate
- under/around the base of the b-pillar trim
- under the rear door sill plate
- behind the rear cargo panel (it pulls off pretty easy)
- up the d-pillar
- up into the headliner (pull the pinch bulb, mind the black goo)
- to the hatch via the grommet
- pulled the hatch trim to “poke the wire out from under it”

Notes:
1. Seriously, mind the black goo in the pinch bulb stuff
2. My camera came with a 12 foot cable, I had to get an extension cable to reach the rear hatch
3. There’s a big channel under the sill plates and they’re pretty easy to remove.
4. If you have a fish tape to feed the wire it’s super easy.

 

[gasman4u]

when I wired my rear dash cam, I went from the mirror/windshield camera
- down the passenger A-pillar (behind the airbag)
- under the front door sill plate
- under/around the base of the b-pillar trim
- under the rear door sill plate
- behind the rear cargo panel (it pulls off pretty easy)
- up the d-pillar
- up into the headliner (pull the pinch bulb, mind the black goo)
- to the hatch via the grommet
- pulled the hatch trim to “poke the wire out from under it”

Notes:
1. Seriously, mind the black goo in the pinch bulb stuff
2. My camera came with a 12 foot cable, I had to get an extension cable to reach the rear hatch
3. There’s a big channel under the sill plates and they’re pretty easy to remove.
4. If you have a fish tape to feed the wire it’s super easy.

You think it’s possible to run it behind the headliner? I’m not looking to drop mine, but wondered if fish tape would make it possible.

 

[elcie200]

You think it’s possible to run it behind the headliner? I’m not looking to drop mine, but wondered if fish tape would make it possible.

I looked at that, like from the back to the front… the sill channel was the better option.

I could not see from the back to front, nor was I able to run my fish tape stick all the way. There appears to be some insulation or other material between the roof and headliner, so I stopped poking at it.

 

[gasman4u]

Any tips/tricks or things to look out for when removing body paneling/kick plates? I don’t want to break some random plastic fitting and kick myself shortly thereafter.

 

[elcie200]

Any tips/tricks or things to look out for when removing body paneling/kick plates? I don’t want to break some random plastic fitting and kick myself shortly thereafter.

Warning: the following is from memory. At 8am… before coffee. I might be missing steps.

Disconnect the battery for 15 mins before pulling the a-pillar cuz airbag. The a-pillar pulls straight out (toward center of car) after you unscrew/remove the handles. Pull from the top. There’s a tab at the bottom that you have to wiggle out. Also speaker wire needs to be unclipped.

Front sill plate pulls up. If you have trim removal tools it helps


Rear door sill plate, there’s a small screw to remove on the “inner/upper step” part. Then it just pulls up.

The cargo area panel just pulls off iirc. You don’t have to fully remove it. Just enough to get your wire back there

You might need to remove the third row seat belt anchor.

also, there’s an antenna? Wire or something in the d-pillar and you don’t want to break that.

Pull the pinch bulb, mind the black goo.

Might have to loosen the seatbelt thing in the rear headliner to drop the headliner a smidge

Rear hatch trim pulls off

The grommet is a pita. Lube your fish tape to make it easier

 

[elcie200]

Post in thread 'SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day'
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sqod-squad-stupid-question-of-the-day.862977/post-14460336

Also this is my post asking about the same. Read thru the section from there.

 

[gasman4u]

Post in thread 'SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day'
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sqod-squad-stupid-question-of-the-day.862977/post-14460336

Also this is my post asking about the same. Read thru the section from there.

Thanks. I’m mid project and the trim on the third row/cargo area is a B. Any words of wisdom for removing this giant piece? I’m at an impasse with it right now. Seat belts flopping in the wind, etc.

 

[elcie200]

Thanks. I’m mid project and the trim on the third row/cargo area is a B. Any words of wisdom for removing this giant piece? I’m at an impasse with it right now. Seat belts flopping in the wind, etc.

I can’t remember if there was any trick to it. I want to say I just pryed at the edge until it popped off. Search here for removing that panel… there’s some really detailed posts. (Accessing the subwoofer, removing headliner, etc)

 

[lcjockey]

How did you route cable to the rear window camera?

Specifically, did anyone do any high speed routing through the black rubber conduit with the third brake light power, etc?

I kept it super simple stupid and tucked it in along top of windshield then down passenger A-pillar tucking in the best I could then folded it into weather strip along door then slightly under passenger dash and then under floor mats under seats past third row then started tucking in along floor trim panels up the rear pillar and across the top hatch. Honestly the only place I notice cable is slightly along passenger dash against A-pillar. With that said I'm probably going to take A-pillar off and tie into airbag cords. Under mats and seats the cable is very protected.

 

[gasman4u]

gents, thanks for all the help. I finally got it complete and wires tucked in.

The length needed for a fairly clean run from the rear view mirror to the rear hatch using the route described is approx 30’ for anyone interested going forward. This would’ve saved me some time in waiting for the 45’ alternative cable I had to buy.

I put a lot of loom on any wire that would either contact a zip tie, sharp edge, or behind the headliner/trim pieces. To mitigate rattes/vibration damage I used some foam pipe insulation on any of the two loops I had to create given the universal nature of the kit. We will see about longevity overall given this technique.

 

[lcjockey]

gents, thanks for all the help. I finally got it complete and wires tucked in.

The length needed for a fairly clean run from the rear view mirror to the rear hatch using the route described is approx 30’ for anyone interested going forward. This would’ve saved me some time in waiting for the 45’ alternative cable I had to buy.

I put a lot of loom on any wire that would either contact a zip tie, sharp edge, or behind the headliner/trim pieces. To mitigate rattes/vibration damage I used some foam pipe insulation on any of the two loops I had to create given the universal nature of the kit. We will see about longevity overall given this technique.

Yes, yes, yes the dashcam company was nice enough to send me a custom length cable. I think I requested 28' but that was without properly hiding behind panels etc. So yes a 30' cable properly installed under headliner is a good length.

 

[gasman4u]

Yes, yes, yes the dashcam company was nice enough to send me a custom length cable. I think I requested 28' but that was without properly hiding behind panels etc. So yes a 30' cable properly installed under headliner is a good length.

That’s awesome! I don’t know that BlackVue had that as an option. Thankfully I got some next day via amazon.

 

[lcjockey]

That’s awesome! I don’t know that BlackVue had that as an option. Thankfully I got some next day via amazon.

I'm not using a BlackVue but instead a Miofive which I think is a fantastic true 4k/2k. With that said I do see the benefit in cloud based dashcams for ease of use downloading video files

 

[FrazzledHunter]

I decided to hard-wire my new dash cam (Garmin 57) and go through the firewall with the GND, BAT and ACC wires. The last hurdle is to connect it all up. I thought I'd post that I found not one but two unused slots in the engine bay fuse box which are energized with IGNITION ON. One is labelled WINCH and the other is unmarked. Maybe everybody knows this...