hardtop restoration (1 Viewer)

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fj40mayo said:
No writeups that I've seen, but the information above pretty much explains it. Its really straight forward. Toughest part was making sure all the pieces lined up and fit correctly before cutting them and welding them up. I used some clamps to hold all the pieces to the top to get an exact fit on all the joints. Measure 27 times, cut once. :D
Click to expand...

i know this isnt the norm but i use a tenth style tape in the garage since its much easier to compute and add in your add and is easier to be exact since you dont have to say fractions which get turned around in my head kinda easy imo..maybe its just cause im a surveyor and nerdy..yeah thats it...lol ;p :eek:
 
I rebuilt my top about 4 years ago, before CCOT developed their rain gutter. I bought a gutter from SOR or MAF, can't remember which right now. They cut the rain gutter into 4 pieces for me to ship and I welded it back up in the garage. I tried to find rivets to build it back like original but was unable to find them so I used stainless steel machine screws. I lined up the fiberglass top on the gutter, drilled holes and installed the SS screws with the nut in the top of the gutter. I trimmed off any protruding screw above the nut with a dremel (oh yeah, I used some red locktight on the threads). I bought some flowable sealant from a local automotive paint supply house and filled the gutter full (on the outside) to seal the gutter. Four years later it's still in good shape however, I don't drive it much and it stays garaged. I spent probably $600 on parts and paint. The sealer that I used was about $100 per unit and it took almost 2 units.

If I had it to do again, I would change a couple of things: 1) would pay closer attention to alignment of all parts including gutter, windshield, side panels, etc. all of these pieces have bolt holes that need to line up and mine didn't fit perfectly. 2) I would use rivets as the head doesn't stick up so far. I covered the SS screws and nuts with the sealant which totally filled the outside of the gutter effectively defeating the purpose of the gutter.

To do it right, your going to spend some money.

Good Luck,

James H.
 
As for spending the $159 for the gutter...it is very hard to turn a radius edge on the guage material you need and keep it straight with a thin edge machine...well worth the $159...and I believe they are unmolested galvanized...

I would use Tinners rivets...Here's where I purchase mine...and buy yourself a rivet set to set them like Toyota did with the small mushroom head in the gutter...Or make your own out of bar stock...drill a hole slightly larger than rivet to set...then form a dome next to it with a drill bit to the shape you want to form the head of rivet...

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/

I'm have yet to do my 67...but I was told by a professional...the best way to re-furbish my fiberglass top was to repair any stress cracks...starfish..etc...then gel-coat and buff....

:cheers:
 
I'm in the process of restoring mine right now. Bought what was rotten from CCOT(very nice work on there part). Media blasted the entire gutter. Spliced in nice CCOT pieces(tig welded). Next, off to the powder coater as i don't ever want it to rust again. For the top i've opted for gell coating. Got a new headliner from CCOT. As for the rivets, i'm not that impressed with there(CCOT) instructions for installation. They show using a rod underneath striking the top of rivet with hammer. How do you know when enough is enough? If you over do it(which wouldn't be hard as they are aluminum rivets) you will compromise the integrity of the rivet and/or split the fiberglass. If you under do it it's going to leak. So i found a 8-32 stainless screw fits perfectly through that OEM hole. So a 8-32,w/flat washers(same O.D. as rivet heads)lock washer, nut and a dab of lock tight. Looks similiar to the long rivet from underneath and if by chance you ever needed to remove the assembly again, you could. removing that rain gutter completely from the top was a bitch. That's my thought right now anyway.
 
Where is this $159 rain gutter that people keep talking about? The cheapest one I see is $199?

Diesel42,

Were you able to buy separate sections of gutter? I see they sell a 7 piece set, but I only need one corner. Was planning on making my own, but if it's cheap enough I'd rather just get it pre-made. Sounds like a good idea using the screws, I might go the same route since i've never had good luck with rivets holding anything together.
 
There is a company on e-bay....real steel... that sells fiberglass tops and gutters..never used their parts so dont know the quality...but another avenue... I believe they are less expensive....cant remember if they are fiberglass or steel... i'm assuming the gutters are steel hence the name...

Brian
 
Ducktapeguy- They will tell you you can only buy the front two sections that they refer to as the visor pieces or you have to buy the entire U-shaped gutter. But if you talk to Gaylon, he always works with you to satisfy the customer so he had there sheetmetal shop make individual pieces.
 
I wish I had a time machine...the kit is now $349.

Is CCOT still the best place to get a raingutter? FYI...I have no metalworking skills, so fabing one is out of the question.
 
thats not worth it. for that money you can get a really clean hardtop with a really clean gutter and fix it up.

i was looking at this option but 349 is def out of the question for me. Is that the price for the pre welded one or the one you have to tack and fit yourself?

i def have no fabbing skills...at all, but your right that is the only prefitted new one that ive seen..

anybody know if toyota still sells them?
 
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