Hanna Quality FZJ80 D.I.Y. rear bumper kit #1 build

[Hinterland]

I recently was lucky enough to get the first DIY rear bumper kit from Ken over at Hanna Quality. Then went and tested and used it at this years Rubithon. They make incredibly strong parts and this bumper kit does not disappoint!

I tried to take lots of pictures to show all the steps so here we go....

First remove all the original rear bumper parts. And you might as well cut the factory exhaust flush with the outside of the frame rail too. It can be reworked later but is in the way for the armor.

Then mount the center section and bolt it to the existing holes in the factory crossmember.

Then attach the recovery points. Make sure to square them to the center piece. and there is a relief on the bottom of both sides like a half circle, don't weld over that like i did on one. they are to pull wires for the taillights later. I had to drill one of mine back out.

Then the outer ends of the bumper go on. These have the cutouts for taillights. And tabs that help align them in the proper location. A straightedge helps keep the top in plane with the center piece. there will be a gap between the ends and the center with the recovery point metal at the bottom of it. This should be an even reveal from front to back. It will all get welded later.

Then its time to get underneath and mount the underside armor wings and the big plates. There are 3 spacers for each side. 2 short and one long. the 2 short ones are for the big plate and the long one is for the bottom armor wing. If you don't put them in the right way you will be LOST!!. lol. The groove on the heavy plate goes inboard.

 

[Hinterland]

Also when the bottom plates are getting mounted you will need to loosen the 2 bolts on the center section and jack the whole bumper into the right location to make it all work. Im sure each rig is a little different so you will have to let the parts and vehicle dictate the final location.

These will get tacked before removing from rig to weld fully but that comes later.
Then mount the spindles on each side. If you have the dual swing outs. They are cut to fit each side and need to be set square to the rest of the bumper. Then burn them in.

Now its time to assemble the side wings. Tac and test fit then weld fully on the bench.

 

[Hinterland]

These are a little tricky to get set but a little grinding and the piece will fit inside.

Its good to weld the spindles fully before the next step or you won't have access to them. Then the plate that goes behind the spindle and closes the front of the wings goes in.

Now you can tac everything together. Make sure to get all points that could flex. and then mount the hoops. I did not get that part photo'd, The hoops go on the side wings and space off the body about 1/2" at the front and flush the bases with the outside of the wings. This worked pretty well for me. And then take off the rig and fully weld on the bench. You can even weld through the tailght holes if you choose to get good beads on the insides of that section too.

 

[Hinterland]

and weld and weld........
.

 

[Hinterland]

Then its time to assemble the swing outs. The two arms are different lengths, the longer one is for the spare tire. I had to radius them to the hub to get a nice fit that looks and functions great.

Then you use 2 1" spacers to get the arm height set properly on the hub and parallel to the bumper.

You also want to align them prior to welding. They go centered on the hub and flush with the face of the bumper. And the bevel on the basket side mounts long point to the rear. This will get closed off later with the basket leg and welded.

Now assemble the jerry can basket. Be sure to make it square before welding fully.

 

[Hinterland]

Make sure the basket area is square, the legs will be slightly askew but its designed that way.

Then get set onto the arm. The whole basket is twisted. Its supposed to be. The part to pay attention to is the front and rear faces of the actual can basket. They need to be square to the bumper. and the twist is to offset the arms being at the angle they are. get it all in position and tac. also the long leg of the inside is supposed to close off the tube of the arm.

Now weld the box up that your latch will lock into and clamp the angle to the underside of the arm. and bolt the latch to it. clamp a 1/4" spacer in place of the neoprene pad to get the spacing right. and cycle the latch to make sure the clearance is good.

 

[Hinterland]

Then start on the spare tire carrier. I used regular bolts on the dog house support but swapped to stainless alan head bolts for final after powder coat.

Also set the spare tire mounting plate with studs welded in place. Make sure the tire will be slightly tilted up rather than down.

Take this time to weld the end cap on the tube as well.
And repeat the latch process on this side as well. Both arms should have been indexed alike flush to the rear bumper face.

 

[Hinterland]

Now you are going to set the stops for the arms. There will be gas rams that keep the arms open and they are pretty precise in throw so the stops are critical. The arms need to just pass 90 degrees and thats it. I had issues on the spare tire side so i ended up adding a little weld material on the stop to fine tune it.

Now the Hi lift jack mount. You have to have a hi lift to be able to get this made up. The lower plate gets welded to the bottom arm and a pin welded in it that indexes in the foot of the hi lift. Then lay the jack against the doghouse of the spare tire and flush it with the back. this is the location. Then tac the upper mount tab in position get the lower plate and upper tab tacked well and test fit with the spacers and mount clamp. these too will get welded together prior to use. once happy with the fit then weld fully. I had the wrong size bolt in this photo so there is a huge stack of washers that are not there in the final install.

Now the plates for reinforcement on the lower wings. There is a right and a left to these and they index at the break on the plate and the lower weld. clamp tight and weld fully. these will bolt through the frame later with crush sleeves for bomber rock protection.

 

[Hinterland]

Another pic of the lower plates.

Then lots of grinding to clean everything up and off to powder coat. And don't forget to drill and tap the arms for the gas rams. There is a really easy layout for this if they aren't drilled and tapped already. Mine was #1 so there may be upgrades in the works.

Completed and mounted. Also now you glue the neoprene pads behind the latches. I used some polyurethane caulking that seemed to work well.

Hope this helps anyone thinking about pulling the trigger on a DIY bumper. I enjoyed building it and hope you enjoyed reading my long build thread!!

 

[TEXASYETI]

Really nice!

 

[LFD2037]

Yeah, I dig that. Sooooooooo, what's the total bill?

 

[e9999]

Excellent, I didn't know he was back into this sort of things. Very good! He's a good guy!

 

[Hinterland]

Yeah, I dig that. Sooooooooo, what's the total bill?

Thanks!! I would direct all questions about cost and purchasing towards Ken at Hanna Quality.

 

[Whileemptyheadsdream]

Thanks!! I would direct all questions about cost and purchasing towards Ken at Hanna Quality.

These deceptive business practices of VENDORS on this site are popin up like mushrooms. There are many Good, truly Independent Builders on this forum who will have no problem telling a MAN what something Costs.

 

[Hinterland]

These deceptive business practices of VENDORS on this site are popin up like mushrooms. There are many Good, truly Independent Builders on this forum who will have no problem telling a MAN what something Costs.

I am not a vendor nor am I affiliated with any. I also built my front bumper from a kit by Luke over at 4x4 labs. And if someone asked me the same question i would say the same. "call Luke at 4x4 labs." jcardona1 did an awesome build thread on that one already so I did not do mine. Sorry if this seems to offend you. I really liked reading and viewing the build of the front bumper i did so I wanted to do the same in kind for the rear I put together since I got the first kit I could be the first pictures.

 

[LFD2037]

Thanks!! I would direct all questions about cost and purchasing towards Ken at Hanna Quality.

I've never understood this. I guess when people have this response it's because they feel it's overpriced and are embarrassed by what they paid? Anyways, nice bumper! I already have a 4x4Labs basic rear DIY, that cost me $495+$85 shipping, that I like. Just wondered the price comparison. Thanks.

 

[rockstate45]

Could be that pricing isn't set in stone? Maybe this kit is a prototype? Maybe his pricing structure changed since the last time he built these?

I found this in a quick google search from a fellow mudder (from March 2006):

Roncruiser,
Full-boat setup is 1950, single swingout is 1450. Contact Hanna for exact pricing
Forgot to mention it can hold a 60" Hi-Lift and not stick out past the body.

Here is a thread where Ken Hanna talks about the details of the new bumper
anyone see hanna's new bumper?

Maybe this helps you guys.

 

[Hanna Quality]

Hinterland is an 80 local that wanted a bumper so I asked him if he'd mind building a bumper as a kit since I am still months away from building any bumpers myself. Please PM if your interested in a DIY rear bumper.

The DIY cost for a complete double swingout bumper with drivers side spare tire swingout and passenger side triple can swingout is $1650 + shipping.

The welded, powder coated and assembled cost is $2600 + shipping. However the timeframe for a finished bumper built is not anytime soon.

 

[Hanna Quality]

Could be that pricing isn't set in stone? Maybe this kit is a prototype? Maybe his pricing structure changed since the last time he built these?

I found this in a quick google search from a fellow mudder (from March 2006):



Maybe this helps you guys.

That was 10 years ago and many improvements since.

 

[LFD2037]

That was 10 years ago and many improvements since.

Yeah, I figured that'd be way off.