H41 & Tc Spacer

[davisdrafting]

Looking at option to move my TC back
10 5/8” so I don’t need to chop my drive shafts.

Fabing the spacer isn’t a problem, just not sure about
the splined shaft extension. The easiest thing I thought
of would be acquiring both shafts from trans. & TC cutting
the end and welding together. Any better/ less expensive ideas.

I removed an auto (A440F) from my FJ80.

Also noticed my drive shaft flanges are not the same
bolt pattern that’s on the TC

 

[alkaline747trio]

So you're doing an H41 and 60 series split case? Mind posting up some pics?

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Why do a H41 in a 80 Series? Why not a H55F?

If you want a longer drivetrain do a H41/H42 and 'split t-case along with the NP203 GRB swap. This gives you lots of low gearing options!

Or, import a 150 five speed and a part-time t-case from Australia, etc.

Good luck with the project!

Alan

 

[davisdrafting]

So you're doing an H41 and 60 series split case? Mind posting up some pics?

What pic’s would you like? I’m not certain the split case is out of a 60, it came mounted to the H41. It is manual shifting but the drive shaft flanges have a different bolt pattern though.

Hi All:

Why do a H41 in a 80 Series? Why not a H55F?

If you want a longer drivetrain do a H41/H42 and 'split t-case along with the NP203 GRB swap. This gives you lots of low gearing options!

Or, import a 150 five speed and a part-time t-case from Australia, etc.

Good luck with the project!

Alan

The reason I did a H41 apposed to an H55 was about $1000.
Don’t know what a NP203 GRB swap is. Guessing it’s a TC mounted to the back of the existing TC. Not sure how that’s
done, where would the drive shafts mount?

 

[davisdrafting]

generic drawing

Here are measurements for anybody interested
It’s a really generic drawing but serves the purpose.

 

[bustanutley]

If I were you I would put a toybox between the two, and what allen said is a similar solution, the adpters for the 203 are available from AA.

 

[davisdrafting]

If I were you I would put a toybox between the two, and what allen said is a similar solution, the adpters for the 203 are available from AA.

That’s a good idea but $2k is out of the question for now

Hoping to spend less then $500 to finish this swap.

In the future I’ll be installing a NV4500 so for now it’s what ever
I can do to get my DD back on the road for the least amount of $$$

 

[lowtideride]

I would just modify your drive shafts, it would the be simplest thing to do and it could be done in a day.

 

[lowtideride]

Also there is a good chance you can swap flanges, I did from an 88 to an 81....and the 88 thru 92 have all the same pattern.

Also you are going to be running a part time case so all ya need to get started is the rear shaft. Also the spacer already exisits for what you need. It is found between the 85-87 4speed/splitcase fj60s... So, that part is dont just soruce it and bolt it in. If this tranny isnt staying in for a while or isnt going to be wheeled I would just find an 85 tranny with the spacer already on it.

But if this is a keeper for a set up and you plan on wheeling it, Mod the shafts.

 

[davisdrafting]

Also there is a good chance you can swap flanges, I did from an 88 to an 81....and the 88 thru 92 have all the same pattern.

Also you are going to be running a part time case so all ya need to get started is the rear shaft. Also the spacer already exisits for what you need. It is found between the 85-87 4speed/splitcase fj60s... So, that part is dont just soruce it and bolt it in. If this tranny isnt staying in for a while or isnt going to be wheeled I would just find an 85 tranny with the spacer already on it.

But if this is a keeper for a set up and you plan on wheeling it, Mod the shafts.

What’s up dude, how’s “your anus”

You don’t think cutting 10 5/8” off the front is going to cause
probs. w/ the angle of the dangle?

I plan on keeping the setup and wheeling it for awhile, year maybe.

Thanks for the tip on the flanges.

Also anyone know what reason someone would weld a barbed fitting on the tranny filler and TC filler bolt w/ a hose connecting them?

 

[scouthead]

Ranger O.D.? I know you didn't like the idea of the toybox because of $$$, and the Ranger is also $$, but you might not need any adapters... Last time I saw them in a catalogue, it seemed like they were offered drilled for so many applications, that it might just go between your bellhousing and transmission. It would push your whole drivetrain back, and then you would have O.D.
Having the driveshafts cut down is probably going to be the cheapest option though...

 

[bustanutley]

Also anyone know what reason someone would weld a barbed fitting on the tranny filler and TC filler bolt w/ a hose connecting them?

Yep, its so you don't have to run, or rely on the seal between the t-case and the tranny. If this seal goes bad you will not necessarily see a leak but, the t-case will pump all its fluid into the tranny. Connecting the two allows them to share oil and make sure the t-case does not get starved.

But I must ask, why are you doing this swap exactly? You are going to be in pretty bad shape gearing wise com paired to the auto, and you are planning to run an nv4500 eventually. Why not run nv4500 now and skip a step, or stick with the auto till you can afford it?

 

[davisdrafting]

Yep, its so you don't have to run, or rely on the seal between the t-case and the tranny. If this seal goes bad you will not necessarily see a leak but, the t-case will pump all its fluid into the tranny. Connecting the two allows them to share oil and make sure the t-case does not get starved.

But I must ask, why are you doing this swap exactly? You are going to be in pretty bad shape gearing wise com paired to the auto, and you are planning to run an nv4500 eventually. Why not run nv4500 now and skip a step, or stick with the auto till you can afford it?

Thanks for the info on the hose.

This is my DD and let me tell you it sucks riding my motorcycle
in the rain at 6am. So I have a fried A440F, didn’t want to waste
the $$$$ on a rebuild for a 30% lossy auto. Only thing I liked about it was I could drive, eat a hamburger an talk on the phone
at the same time.
If you check the price on the H151,H55 or NV4500 plus adaptors bellhousing flywheel and all the rest of the parts. The cost would be upwards of $3K.
So fare I have $1200 for H41,Splitcase, Bell, Fork, Fly and Hub $30 for a modified Toyota PU clutch assembly and master cylinder and about $260 for a clutch kit, stick shift and slave w/ rod.

I could only have bought one of the tranny’s I wanted for that amount.

I would rather make the adaptors for the NV4500 or what ever
I decide on. I have the equipment in storage on the coast
but have no vehicle to drag the flat bed over to retrieve my tools.

So until then it’s a H41 for some light wheeling/ camping this summer until I get a good deal on a 5spd. and my tools

 

[bustanutley]

Not to get off track but one thing comes to mind, beater DD. Soon as I got out of college I bout this sweet g-ride for $800

It was the best thing I have ever done to my cruiser until I bout a truck and trailer. It constantly got 35mpg, cost $20 a month to insure and I didn't do a damn thing to it other than replace CVs. I just recently sold it for $600 after putting over 40K on it Not a bad investment

 

[ridgerunner]

So fare I have $1200 for H41,Splitcase, Bell, Fork, Fly and Hub $30 for a modified Toyota PU clutch assembly and master cylinder and about $260 for a clutch kit, stick shift and slave w/ rod.

I would have thought a junk yard auto would have cost a lot less money with less hassle.

For the money though, if I was willing to give up the OD, I would have gone 60 series H42 with a NP203 /Split case, which is 10.2" long. Keep the driveability of the H42 and have some crawlability (at a reasonable price) with the 203.

I'd just retube the driveshafts though.