GX470 Long Travel Rear Suspension Options

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Has anyone had an issue like this? When stuffed on the drivers side, the driveshaft is hitting my budbuilt gas tank skid plate. I have 2” long travel Icon 56550s, c59-675v springs, and the 3” metal tech bump stop drops with wheelers bumps. Also running no rear sway bar. I ended up removing the bolt holding on the leg of the skid plate in that corner on the trail. It was hitting the bolt heads on u joint, making a hell of a noise, and causing the axle hop up and down. I found some stuff on 3rd gen 4Runners but nothing on the GX. Maybe some long travel guys can chime in. It seems like cutting the skid is what I need to do but if there’s any info on this it would be appreciated.
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Which skid plate is hitting? I need to stuff mine to see if anything like that happens. I don’t have the 3rd skid plate (transfer case one) and I still have the sway bars connected, so I’m not quite flexing as much as you are.
 
Wow that’s really crammin that thing. Im not sure you have another option other then cutting the skid.. Unless you make some even longer bump extensions
 
Looks like the OE panhard bar. I imagine you'd be hitting the gas tank skid even harder if you were running an adjustable aftermarket bar.

Are you still running the factory upper/lower rear control arms?
 
Which skid plate is hitting? I need to stuff mine to see if anything like that happens. I don’t have the 3rd skid plate (transfer case one) and I still have the sway bars connected, so I’m not quite flexing as much as you are.

The driveshaft is hitting the my gas tank skid but only when the drive is stuffed. The 3rd picture is flexed the opposite way and there is no contact that direction. Like I said above I removed the bolt that supported the back leg of the gas tank skid (you can see the leg in the first image centered above the yoke). In hindsight, I installed the bolt connecting the leg to the skid backwards. I had the nut facing the driveshaft and I had to borrow a grinder on the trail to remove it since it was so smashed. This is what was left of the nylock nut
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Wow that’s really crammin that thing. Im not sure you have another option other then cutting the skid.. Unless you make some even longer bump extensions

Yup. I'm certain that I need to cut the skid and thats fine with me. I was wondering if anyone had seen this before and could direct me somewhere. Probably need to do something similar to this thread.

Looks like the OE panhard bar. I imagine you'd be hitting the gas tank skid even harder if you were running an adjustable aftermarket bar.

Are you still running the factory upper/lower rear control arms?

Yes I'm still running the OE panhard bar and I have the EIM panhard correction bracket but need to get that welded in. I've been thinking about this and remembered this video I found when browsing the threads linked on the EIM site. Adding the bracket would make it worse but also better. It would shift the axle towards the drivers side in the neutral position since the panhard would be level at the taller ride height but then the axle would move towards the passengers side at all times regardless of the suspension moving up or down.
 
Reading through the EIM design thread he did for the 3rd gen, it seems like the correction kit isn't going to solve my issue. It will either make it worse of very slightly better. In the second link, it says after installing he is hitting farther back but thats a 3rd gen so it had both panhard drop and lift brackets so not sure.

Toyota-4Runner.org - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2538256-post232.html (to #235)


And digging further into what the 4th gen guys are doing it seems the answer is to trim the gas tank skid and/or get an adjustable panhard bar and shorten it which would pull the axle very slightly passenger to avoid driveline rub on the skid when the driver is stuffed. I found one other thread that I can't find again that said getting adjustable upper and lower links could help shift the axle back which could also help prevent rubbing.




 
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The panhard bar system are not designed for long travel. This is known issue for everyone that run long travel. They work in an arch and adding PCK would make this problem worse.

All custom build desert runner with long travel run true four link to make sure the axle travel perpendicular to the centerline of the chassis.

Trimming skidplate and flipping the bolt seems to be enough counter measure for most people.
 

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