I’ve been a proud owner of a 1995 FZJ80 since 2004. For the past 22 years, it has been my daily driver for my commute, and the odometer has now surpassed 420,000 km (approx. 260,000 miles). I am fully committed to spending the rest of my life with this rig.
For many years, I relied on Toyota dealers for maintenance, but about 10 years ago, I decided to take the leap into doing almost all the work myself. Since then, IH8MUD has been my "North Star"—an invaluable compass for navigating the world of 80-series maintenance and customization.
Coming up, I’m tackling a project that feels like a significant hurdle for me: removing, cleaning, and re-gearing the transfer case. Next week is a long holiday in Japan (Golden Week), so I plan to start the job on April 29th.
To prepare, I’ve been binge-watching YouTube tutorials. Timmy the Toolman’s channel and Georg from Valley Hybrids have been playing on a loop in my house! While there is plenty of info on how to tear down a T-case once it's on the bench, I struggled to find detailed info on the actual removal process—until I found the thread "Removing The Transfer Case (TC)" started by @1FZj80. Finding that thread felt like seeing a guiding light in the dark.
Reading through @1FZj80's thread, what impacted me the most was the concept of a DIY transfer case jack adapter. While I knew about the small transmission jacks sold at Harbor Freight or Amazon, I was hesitant to add a bulky tool to my garage for a job I might only do once every 20 years. Finding out that I could safely remove the T-case by building a custom adapter for my existing floor jack was a "Eureka" moment for me.
Inspired by his design and tailored to my own workflow, here is the T-case adapter I fabricated:
We all know that while floor jacks move smoothly forward and backward, they resist lateral (side-to-side) movement. Furthermore, due to the lifting arm's geometry, the jack must be able to roll smoothly to keep the load moving vertically.
To solve this, I didn't just build the adapter. Since I'll be sliding the jack in from the side of the vehicle, I also built a custom rolling dolly that allows the entire floor jack to move freely in any direction (360 degrees). This ensures I can pull the 50kg (110lbs) T-case straight back from the transmission without any binding, and then lower it safely.
Now that my DIY jack adapters are ready, I’ve been running through the removal process in my head. I want to make sure I haven't missed anything, so here is my step-by-step simulation.
My planned workflow:
Support the T-case with my DIY adapter/floor jack.
Remove the transmission crossmember.
Lower the T-case slightly (about 2 inches) to gain better access to the hard-to-reach upper bolts and connectors.
Support the rear of the transmission with a separate bottle jack (using my custom plate) to bring the transmission and T-case back to a level/horizontal position for a smooth separation.
Slide the T-case out (Fingers crossed!).
Temporary Support: Once the T-case is out, I plan to re-install the crossmember temporarily. I expect the teardown, cleaning, and re-gearing to take about 1–2 days. I feel that leaving the transmission supported only by a bottle jack for that duration is too risky.
My Concern:Since the transmission mount is the primary attachment point for the crossmember, I'll need to shift my support (the bottle jack) to a different spot on the transmission case to get the crossmember back in place.
I’m curious if anyone else has used this "temporary crossmember" approach while the T-case was on the bench. Where would be the safest secondary spot to support the transmission during this relay? Is the housing just forward of the mount strong enough to handle the weight while I bolt the crossmember back up?
I crawled under the rig to inspect the area further. The transmission oil pan is covered by a fairly sturdy guard.
I’m considering using the area marked in the red box as my temporary jacking point while re-installing the crossmember. My plan is to place a wood block between the jack and this guard to distribute the load.
What do you think? Does this look like a safe spot to hold the weight of the transmission for a short duration?
For those of you who have removed the T-case yourself—I welcome your honest opinions and any 'pro-tips' you might have. I want to make sure I’m doing this as safely as possible.
