Gotta Vent

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zetasig

zetasig

Joined
Dec 4, 2002
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Just wasted three more hours in the garage trying to get at least the driver seat installed. The cradle we did at the last wrench fest is not going to work, Sits way to high even for my short Arse.

Gas tank leaking again. so I patched that 7 more times.

Wiper motor not working for some reason.

Attempting to loosen the transmission fill plug and whacked my self in the head with the cheater pipe. Nice black eye to go to work with the last 4 days.

One rear wheel cylinder keeps bottoming out the brake lines so it leaks and prevents the rear brakes from working.

I am so tired if dicking with this and not ever driving it once down the street.

after a long day of working I am tired of this POS.

Have a wonderful night.
 
So Warren, should I load my tools into the van and stay a few days at your place to get your ride on the road? You foot the bill for fuel, food and a couple bucks for my pocket and I'll be there...

Otherwise, hang in there. Remember, this is just a hobby. Take some time away from it. I have some stock seat brackets you can have (was gonna send them with you at the last workday). Maybe they will get you headed in the right direction. As for the tank, I'd just get a new one and try again. Fuel cells are cheap. The stock tank is around $300 (might have to adapt a later tank to your earlier truck though).

Go play with your youngster. Bet the parks are nice this time of year.

Nick
 
Warren I've got 2 wheel cylinder rebuild kits I'll send to ya. Good luck with getting it running. pm me your mailing addy if you want the kits.
 
Warren,

Been there...many, many times. Walk away from it and pick up golf or something for a couple days. Seriuosly...it will do wonders for your outlook. I've found that when things like that start workin' against me it's time to break the tension and do something TOTALLY off the wall.

Taking Nick up is also a good idea and will offer up quite a time saver to start enjoying your rig now the weather is better.

HTH,

Mark
 
Guys thanks for the words. and offers, Nick let me think about it.

Marty, I dont think the w/c need to be rebuilt. I think the threads are bottomed out on the one and that is the problem. since I can torque the fitting on the brake line all the way in and it still loose on the actual line.

Uhh. Just tired of working 80 hours a week. and having this think sit in the garage. I really just need to pony up some money and get some crap I need. Like a new wheel cylinder. A welder, and some other crap. Yes I admit there is a cheap way and a right way to do things. The cheap way has gotten me this far. and its not as if I have just dumped a huge pile of cash into this thing (yet)

Back to work. (the job work that is)
 
Warren,

There are brake line nuts with long sections of thread that will work for what you're fighting.

Don't hurry thinking about it. I'm booked up for a little while...got 10 tons of machine tools to move.

Nick
 
Ihave a used wheel cylinder that probably needs a rebuild you can have if you want. I just didn't put enough info up above
 
I will see about the longer nuts. I have been to two or three different places, will try napa. the ones I have are probably from the tip of my pinky to the first knuckle. One inch maybe.

Marty is the spare you have for the passenger side rear most position? The way the adjusters are set makes a difference.

I think I will spend a little $$ at CCOT this weekened.
 
Warren,

I must warn you that buying brake parts from CCoT is more like wasting your money not spending it. Better to order from NAPA or check with CDan for stock stuff. Most folks I have heard from have had bad luck with CCoT hydraulic parts.

Also, if a 1" flare nut is not sealing in your wheel cylinder then I'd suspect you have the wrong cylinder there. To put it another way I think you might have the line in a bleeder hole. Not sure if that makes a difference but it might...

HTH,
Nick
 
I know it could tend to get a little spendy, once you add it all up, but what about getting Poser's RDB brackets and going to rear discs?

Marty2
 
Well another weekend gone, Nick I thought about that too, I will pull a bleeder screw and try it in that hole and see what happens. But I think you are on the right track.

Well I have been back and forth on the RDB>

I had some old drums turned for the rears. and I have brand new Brake shoes with 0 miles. I figure I will run the drums since I already had most of the parts.

With the RDB< I would need all of the other parts. including an external prop valve. Since I have never driven this thing further than the end of my block rear brakes really arnt important in the whole scheme of things.
 
Warren,
You can put a screw into the rear port of the master cylinder and just drive on the front disc brakes. I've done that on a few trucks, just to keep them mobile. didn't seem to have any ill effects for low speed trips around the block.
 
I have been just letting the tail end of the fluid spew all over the RR tire.


I will attempt to get some time free here in a bit and switch over the lines. I will take photo too to see what you guys think.
 
It's all worth it.

3 years, 4 months, 28 days and 3 trips for Jim C. before mine even turned over. It's the journey not the destination. Many a day I said to myself-sell this MTF before it kills you. Yesterday I was driving through Upper Arlington and a little girl about 8 years old yelled out of a passing mini van-AWESOME CAR DUDE. Made every minute worth it. Just keep working it.

3500 man hours and I am still fixing stuff:)
 
Well I took out some frustration on the 4 speed trans hump I had, cut the end off and beat on it a little. it looks, well it looks like every other thing on the truck, beat on and put back,

Cept for the bling bling carb and intake.

Its getting warm out here so I will try to rhino line the tub soon. Still havent messed with the rear brakes. All the patches on the gas tank seem to be holding. Good thing I dont smoke............
 
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