So a stupid question but at freezing how long do I want to turn on my glow plugs for? I did the Wilson Switch, and replaced the glow plugs with 10 volt. Also at approx 60 degrees F how long do I want them on. It didn't even want to sputter after bleeding the lines, it was 28 degrees F. Got it in the garage now with a fire going.
Glow Plug Time
- Thread starter phatwheels
- Start date
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I just checked my 2H at 0C and it stays on for 7 or 8 seconds.
I got the same set up. No problem going 15-20. 30 max IMOP.
Did you remove the resistor at the busbar? there is a large resistor there to voltage drop down for the old 6 volt piugs. I left it in, and I still get a good start doing manual.
But you can remove so you can get more glow.
With the resistor in place I don't see why you couldn't glow for extremely long periods. Other thann you would kill the battery before killing the plugs.
7-8 seconds with the 10.5 v plugs will start really badly. With lots of smoke. Glow much longer.
Did you remove the resistor at the busbar? there is a large resistor there to voltage drop down for the old 6 volt piugs. I left it in, and I still get a good start doing manual.
But you can remove so you can get more glow.
With the resistor in place I don't see why you couldn't glow for extremely long periods. Other thann you would kill the battery before killing the plugs.
7-8 seconds with the 10.5 v plugs will start really badly. With lots of smoke. Glow much longer.
Did you have any luck getting it to start yesterday?
There are 2 glow plug cycles on the HJ60. The 1st click comes on at about 7-10 seconds but there will be a second click after 20 seconds. You can see the click on the voltmeter as well. The 2nd click is the one you need to wait for. The engine will start and run way better after the 2nd click., especially in colder weather.
Rab
Rab
- Thread starter
- #7
Left the Resistor in Place
So with the resistor there should be no way to damage a glow plug at 45 seconds? One of them actually started to melted? I thought 30 seconds should be very safe, tried 45 cuz I was impatient. No luck getting it started. It needs some major work. Doesn't have enough compression to cough or sputter spraying WD-40 into it at 60-70 degrees F. Its gonna get to hibernate this winter. It spent 9 years in a barn. I was going to drive it to Albuquerque as a rust bucket if it started but I'm just gonna pull the motor or drivetrain next spring and use it in my 1988 4Runner. With a turbo that would really move.
So with the resistor there should be no way to damage a glow plug at 45 seconds? One of them actually started to melted? I thought 30 seconds should be very safe, tried 45 cuz I was impatient. No luck getting it started. It needs some major work. Doesn't have enough compression to cough or sputter spraying WD-40 into it at 60-70 degrees F. Its gonna get to hibernate this winter. It spent 9 years in a barn. I was going to drive it to Albuquerque as a rust bucket if it started but I'm just gonna pull the motor or drivetrain next spring and use it in my 1988 4Runner. With a turbo that would really move.
Try an ether based spray like Nulon 24% ether instead of WD40. This will usually fire a low compression 2H or if the engine is cranking slow.
If you connect a glow plug to a battery with some jumper leads and time how long it takes to glow bright red. 
Add a couple of seconds to that number and that is how long you should glow it.
A lot of factory glow systems dont glow for long enough in cold weather on older engines.
Add a couple of seconds to that number and that is how long you should glow it.
A lot of factory glow systems dont glow for long enough in cold weather on older engines.
Okay; here are a ferw glow plug tips -
Make sure you're running the correct glow plugs. Many parts stores don't get the part numbers or voltages correct - and they are different on slow glow and super glow trucks - whether they are 12V or 24V systems.
As a rule of thumb, you should replace ALL the glow plugs at the same time, even if only one is giving you grief. After years of experience messing around with these things, I have to say that it does make a big difference to the overall load of the circuit and the balance of the glow across all the plugs. Also, when you replace the plugs, clean up the bus bar and related connections.
On the super glow systems, there are what some people refer to as "two clicks" of the relays. The first click is when the first (short) timed circuit that runs at full voltage kicks out and the second click is when the lower voltage (and that's the reason for the big resistor some of you have made not of) circuit kicks out. The second and longer glow is designed to prevent sputtering after the engine is already started... kind of like hitting the dash button for a few more seconds on the slow glow systems when the engine misfires.
If you want to see how long it takes for your glow plugs to light, then you should do a real life test of the glow system. I would not recommend just guessing at the amount of time you think they should be on for. You really need to do this with the system intact with your regular batteries in place etc...
Another note, is that running lower voltage plugs on a system designed for higher voltage units is a bad idea. For example, a 1981 BJ42 uses 18V glow plugs and installing 14V or 10.5V plugs really messes the whole glow cycle up rather than making things work faster or better.
hth, and ymmv.
~j.
Make sure you're running the correct glow plugs. Many parts stores don't get the part numbers or voltages correct - and they are different on slow glow and super glow trucks - whether they are 12V or 24V systems.
As a rule of thumb, you should replace ALL the glow plugs at the same time, even if only one is giving you grief. After years of experience messing around with these things, I have to say that it does make a big difference to the overall load of the circuit and the balance of the glow across all the plugs. Also, when you replace the plugs, clean up the bus bar and related connections.
On the super glow systems, there are what some people refer to as "two clicks" of the relays. The first click is when the first (short) timed circuit that runs at full voltage kicks out and the second click is when the lower voltage (and that's the reason for the big resistor some of you have made not of) circuit kicks out. The second and longer glow is designed to prevent sputtering after the engine is already started... kind of like hitting the dash button for a few more seconds on the slow glow systems when the engine misfires.
If you want to see how long it takes for your glow plugs to light, then you should do a real life test of the glow system. I would not recommend just guessing at the amount of time you think they should be on for. You really need to do this with the system intact with your regular batteries in place etc...
Another note, is that running lower voltage plugs on a system designed for higher voltage units is a bad idea. For example, a 1981 BJ42 uses 18V glow plugs and installing 14V or 10.5V plugs really messes the whole glow cycle up rather than making things work faster or better.
hth, and ymmv.
~j.
