Getting ready...

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PHAEDRUS said:
Well,
I stripped and repainted my bezel, Straightened out my bent spring mounting plate and cut the lawn.
Anyone up for Jeepskool next weekend?
I will be heading down on saturday.
Dave
Click to expand...

I will be ready for the next one. I have my last session at OSU coming up.
 
Congrats on finishing the Masters classes.
I will report back.

Matt,
If you will be home on sunday I might try to pick up a trans and a blinder.
Dave
 
So I spent the day sunday playing in my flowerbeds.
But today I found a box in my driveway and started unbolting stuff.
I am pretty sure I have the linkage set up correctly, I have a few questions. First off I have the intake plenum, Then the spacer plate then a gasket and then the carb. That makes sense. (I hope)
My issue is with the fuel input and return lines.
As I had a holley with a single line from fuel pump to carb I am unsure what to do with the second line. I assume the port closest to the valve cover is to the fuel pump itself, The one outboard of the carb is what I have no idea where to connect.
Here are a couple of pics.
The port on the right in the second picture is the one I am holding in the first picture.
it appears the one on the left that ends up under my battery box is either too long or I have some fuel pump issues.
Thoughts??
Dave
IMG00117.webp
IMG00116.webp
 
Looks to me like you need a different fuel pump. That pump is for carbs without a return line. Hey, at least the PO did a decent job swapping the Holley on (even if the Holley is a POS...) The line from the outboard port on the carb is the return line and should connect to the tank. Right now the fuel pump is using the return line and yer carb needs it back!

EDIT - Actually went and LOOKED at a carb: return line is closer to the valve cover. The the carb still wants the return line on the frame back! /EDIT

Or I could be full of chit from sniffing too may paint and welding fumes today while working on my trailer.

Nick
 
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What Zebra said.

Since you already have a 78 carb and 78 lines, I would recommend getting a 1978 fuel pump from the FLAPS. I prefer the serviceable design of the 78-earlier pumps. I also prefer the fuel return line to originate at the FPR at the carb.

The fuel return line that is under the battery should hug the block, then point straight out at the batt. Should be between lower rad hose and engine. Just needs a little tweaking.
 
Ok,
What is the FLAPS? My local napa, federated, auto zone are all showing out of stock. SOR lists an am replacement as available but specifies production split as of 06 78.
is aftermarket ok for this or should I be calling CDan?
One more, Do I have the lines connected to the carb correctly? I am assuming that the port closest to the valve cover is supply.
Dave
 
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If the line that is closest to the valve cover ends in the nut by the fuel pump it is in the right spot. Yes, it is the supply line. As I noted in my post above the outboard port (the one away from the valve cover...) on the carb is the return. :D

EDIT: After actually LOOKING at a carb I see I've gotten this backwards. Return line is closer to the valve cover and supply is outboard. Oops... /EDIT

You should know by now that NO ONE will have parts in stock for a '78 Land Cruiser! :rolleyes: I'm happy if they have a LISTING for a part I can order. IIRC Car Quest sells an OEM pump in a Car Quest box (Jim will know better than me...I find used pumps for my junk: when it's running). You want the pump on the older side of the year split. :hillbilly:

Nick
 
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Thanks Nick and Jim,
New pump found by Dan in a warehouse in Canada, Should see it sometime next week, So to clarify, Supply line from fuel pump is closest to the valve cover? The way the tubes were bent it would be the other way, The line with two nuts is to the farther away from the valve cover port.
Figure I can clean up the lines and rebolt on the alternator bracket while waiting for the fuel pump.
Dave
 
:hhmm: Ok, you made me go look....and I see I was wrong again. :o You are correct the line next to the valve cover is the return while the line outboard is the supply. Sorry. Too many welding and paint fumes again...

Nick
 
Thanks guys,
fun with tubing bender is forthcoming.
If anyone is bored on saturday I will be a the St. Joweph school in Mantua with the bosses 62 catalina at a car show.
Dave
 
FJ40Jim said:
Nick's right about the fuel line routing.
Not sure about the fumes.
Click to expand...

Jim,

I ran out of Rustoleum rusty metal primer for my trailer. Bought something else local 'cause they didn't have 'oleum. It was crap so I found a 30 year old can of Rustoleum primer in the basement. It was fine! Made back when there was still solvents and stuff in paint. It had separated but because it still had real solvents it mixed up and laid out like new. But them solvents...too bad there's no "stoned" smilely. Oh, I welded some stake pockets to the side of the trailer. The heat burned some of the old skool primer off the metal. Accidentally took a few hits of THAT too. :eek: Cough, hack, cough... :hillbilly:

Nick
 
Ok,
Still waiting for a fuel pump but got everything else sorted less some vacuum lines.
My Dizzy has vacuum ports, the one furthers from the dizzy is capped, The nearer one is feeding directly to the carb dead center next to the valve cover. Now I capped the two lines in the spacer plate off. But that leaves two lines on the top that connect to actuators, a green single wire clip and about a 1/4 od line that looks like it connects to something.
I assume from diagrams I have seen that one of the ports on the upper air cleaner will go to a pcv valve on the valve cover, Looks like the large (about 3/8) bore on the upper air cleaner that faces forward needs to get plugged. What else am I missing?
Frigging Brown Truck
Dave
 
Fuel pump in hand, will be reporting back....
Dave
 
Hmm,
Pump is installed, Now I put a "little" bit of fuel down the top of the carb and of course if fires for a second but it does not appear that I have fuel coming up from the pump. I pulled the fitting from the top of the carb (away from valve cover) and it appears dry after about 30 seconds of straight cranking. How long should this take? Just don't to burn anything up, As of yet I have no fuel in the sight window and it will not start without a bit of fuel down the bowl.
Any thoughts or guidance?

Still need some guidance on what to do with the vacuum lines. Specifically this approx 3/8 inch line. The smaller lines are capped off.

Dave
IMG00124.webp
 
Post a picture of the pump where it mounts to the block. You might have a spacer/insulator in next to the block and that vintage pump should not use one. The pump you pulled off would have used an insulator and if you put it back the pump isn't hitting the cam and therefore not pumping.

Nick
 
I could not see a spacer on the block, I wire wheeled the mating surface and did not see any point at which the spacer could be. I did notice that the body of the new pump is approx 1/4 inch deeper where it mounts to the block. I had it mounted with the original bolts but did not like that there were only two threads making contact. I put some longer bolts in in its place. I could see where the cam was hitting the pump arm but it only had about 1/4 inch of contact on the paddle.
Guess I need to pull it back off again.
Dave
 
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