Gen2 Sequoia Subframe Rust and Replacement
- Thread starter feza
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- #22
Last part was mounting the fuel tank torquing everything and giving it a driveway alignment. Mounting the fuel tank from the ground sucked bad and impossible to line it up using two floor jacks by yourself. I ended up just stacking scrap wood and tires under it. I am really worried about all the evap hoses, they are not cheap.
I was able to wiggle under the car and torque everything with it on the ground. It was not fun and I felt it the next day, but it is possible if you have a decent selection of extensions and wobbles. There were so many bolts that I had to make a checklist to make sure I didnt miss any.
Rear adjustment cams are a 19mm socket on the bolt and a deep 30mm socket to adjust. I adjusted it for -1 degree camber and zero toe. Hopefully the alignment shop agrees with my settings.
I was able to wiggle under the car and torque everything with it on the ground. It was not fun and I felt it the next day, but it is possible if you have a decent selection of extensions and wobbles. There were so many bolts that I had to make a checklist to make sure I didnt miss any.
Rear adjustment cams are a 19mm socket on the bolt and a deep 30mm socket to adjust. I adjusted it for -1 degree camber and zero toe. Hopefully the alignment shop agrees with my settings.
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- #23
Put a set of 5 bargain walmart Cooper Discoverer AT 275/60/20 (33") tires on there. Car swallows them right up and they look stock. Should have gone for 35" E load range tires which look like they would fit.
Still needs an alignment but I am going to play with the front end and see if I can free up the cams before taking it in. Then I am going to put an unheard amount of fluid film of every metal surface.
Still needs an alignment but I am going to play with the front end and see if I can free up the cams before taking it in. Then I am going to put an unheard amount of fluid film of every metal surface.
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- #24
On the front of the car I was able to free up the front most two bolts. The front-rear bolts would not move and I didnt try the tie rods. Car aligned good enough for me considering all the work I did and I have much more confidence in my driveway alignment skills. The tech said the tie rods would only move a little and they should be replaced. I am planning on doing the dobinsons 2" lift after my body and mind recover from this project so I will get another alignment this fall after doing tie rods and lower front control arms. Tonight or tomorrow i am going to put 2-3 gallons of thick fluid film inside and outside the frame.
Great work! I would love to tear mine all apart and sand everything down and paint it up!
Buy 7 volumes of the factory Sequoia repair manual instead?
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- #29
Wow that is even crustier than mine! Your new parts look great, are they all from a junk yard or new? Did you take every thing apart to replace every bushing and bearing?
I assume the green thing on wheels is some kind of bearing press, but it has the lower control arm spring area in it? what is this thing?
If you are as rusty as mine I highly recommend flushing out the frame. I have now done my 80, 100 and Sequoia, they were all gross inside. I bought a $30 pressure washer drain cleaner attachment that has rear facing turbo nozzle. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8M4TMSM?tag=ihco-20
I followed this thread. I bought a lot of florida parts or new from overseas for short money. Also bought most of all the bushings from overseas and had to pay the vat prior to delivery so be careful. Only reason some of the bushings were purchased overseas vs the febest in Florida was they were out of stock on some. Got a great deal on the subframe from Higgins Auto recycling Bakersfield California in superb condition. $300 for part and delivery. Went outside of ebay and contacted them directly. Only parts I am missing is the rear dust shields haven't come across any used ones and new is $250 a piece. Your best friend in this undertaking is the bolt heat induction tool. Bought it on amazon a while ago and is a life saver. Made the removal of the Subframe bolts easy. Also be aware I almost lost the subframe with the rear differential still mounted using one of those cheap harborfreight transmission jack. The harborfreight transmission jack almost buckled/collapsed. The subframe is light in comparison to the rear differential. The rear differential is very very heavy. If you have any questions reach out to me. Also toyota came out with a complete frame plug kit. Purchased it for around $120 and $40 I beleive for the subframe plugs. The plugs will help keep moisture and sand out of the holes. Also their is a toyota post for Toyota Dealer technicians and it had a lot of part info/torque/ frame inner and outer treatment chemicals to use if a frame replacement was not needed. Let me find that post and put the link on for you and others. Give me a minute will post it.
Try this link if you can't get the PDF to download
I bought it to flush out the inner frame along with the frame plug kit from toyota for the frame and subframe. Also bought the recommended inner frame paint toyota uses. The coil spring arm I beleive your refering to is holding the arm while I cut out the ball joint that wont press out with a million degrees of heat or 30,000lbs of pressure from the press.
Yes I replaced every bushing and ball joint. Purchased them from US and overseas distributors of FEBEST and bought new and used arms/parts. Tried to buy from Florida or Southern California.
Cavity wax loaded with rust inhibitors is what is needed for inner parts of the frame, applied with a 360 degree spraying long wand.
Toyota learned its lesson, I've heard they are doing that for their new boxed frames.
Thanks for posting this all. Amazing work!!