I'm searching for ideas on how to improve gas milage and performance. I know there are alot of V8 conversions out there, is there anything you can do with the stock engine? Weber carb, header, aftermarket ignition?
Gas milage / Performance?
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How much are you willing to spend to gain a couple of MPG's? In the long run it probably isn't worth doing any mods to up your milage. You will spend more than you will save.
Better off making sure all the stock systems function correctly. Make sure the tune of the motor is the best it can be. Adjust the valves to spec, new fuel filter and PCV valve, cap/rotor/wires/plugs replaced, maybe have the carb cleaned and rebuilt. Make sure all the vacuum hoses are new (there's 40 FEET of hose in the stock FJ60 system...if there's old hose I'll bet there's leaks!). Make sure the intake/exhaust gasket isn't leaking.
Did all this to my '84 FJ60 and used to get 16 MPG with a 2-3" lift, 4.11 gears and 33 Swamper TSL's (this gear/tire combo equals stock 3.73 gears and 31" tires). Drove 30plus miles to work in Boston traffic every day like that. Truck also ran awesome, plenty of power and pep. Wish I would have kept that truck...
HTH,
Nick
Did all this to my '84 FJ60 and used to get 16 MPG with a 2-3" lift, 4.11 gears and 33 Swamper TSL's (this gear/tire combo equals stock 3.73 gears and 31" tires). Drove 30plus miles to work in Boston traffic every day like that. Truck also ran awesome, plenty of power and pep. Wish I would have kept that truck...
HTH,
Nick
I switched out a bad dizzy for an HEI from DUI. I picked up 2mpg to get me a whopping 14-15mpg around town. There are really no highways around me so I don't know about that mileage. Also, a general tune up is the best medicine for improved fuel consumption. After that the only other improvement is a chevy small block!
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Weber carb and aftermarket ignition are no improvement over properly functioning OEM systems.mntnmissle said:
In semi-random order, here's a list I give customers for improving Land Cruiser fuel economy. This is not specific to FJ60:
-Slow down! It's a Cruiser, not a modern car.
-Shave the head for increased compression
-Install larger stainless steel valves
-Swap on the 1981-newer closed chamber head and flattop pistons
-Install free flow exhaust system
-Install headers & liquid heat riser
-Eliminate EGR and AIR systems
-Repair or install cold ram air, especially in warm climates
-Use an 88C. thermostat, in lieu of something colder
-Use a clutch fan
-Upgrade to 1981-newer electronic distributor & ignitor/coil
-Use radial tires, not bias ply
-Run skinnier tires (235/85R16 instead of 33x12.50R15)
-Swap in 3.70 diff gears instead of 4.11
-Use open or selectable rear diff, instead of LSD or autolocker.
-Run synthetic lubes in engine, tranny, transfer, axles
-Remove heavy or aerodynamically dirty stuff from the vehicle (roof rack, front brush guard, side rails, large rearview mirrors, giant spare tires, multiple full jerry cans, hi-lift...)
The above list assumes that the operator has already brought the vehicle up to date on maintenance items: tire pressure, tune-up, belts & hoses, fluid levels, brakes, wheel bearings, alignment....
3.7s are stock in 60s while 4.11 are stock in 62's. Also 4.11s are stock in 70's and early 80's 40's as far as I know.
Jim, you certainly know how to spend some money!!! In my defense, my dizzy was beat down and upon replacement with the HEI I was mearly restoring the milage to near stock. The performance improvement, however, CAN be credited to the HEI. Not the I am challanging the master... I certainly woudl default to JimC for anything he recommended (no sarcasm intended).
I am also running 33 9.50's, no roof rack, inside spare, and am properly tuned with smog!
Jim, you certainly know how to spend some money!!! In my defense, my dizzy was beat down and upon replacement with the HEI I was mearly restoring the milage to near stock. The performance improvement, however, CAN be credited to the HEI. Not the I am challanging the master... I certainly woudl default to JimC for anything he recommended (no sarcasm intended).
I am also running 33 9.50's, no roof rack, inside spare, and am properly tuned with smog!
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Fish,
I was not doubting your HEI improvement. My comments were directed at the original poster.
And yes, if one did everything I can think of to improve fuel efficiency, it would run into the thousands of dollars, just to go from 15MPG to 18MPG. I would rather buy a beater Geo Prizm for $1500 and drive it around, saving mucho fuel and cruiser wear & tear at the same time.
I was not doubting your HEI improvement. My comments were directed at the original poster.
And yes, if one did everything I can think of to improve fuel efficiency, it would run into the thousands of dollars, just to go from 15MPG to 18MPG. I would rather buy a beater Geo Prizm for $1500 and drive it around, saving mucho fuel and cruiser wear & tear at the same time.
So what rear diff. gears would be better for a cruiser that gets alot of highway miles? I would like to try and make it easier on the cruiser to cruise at 75mph if possible.
But also planning on putting 32's or 33's on it as well.
I'm not mudding much, mostly use it on the beach in the sand.
Thanks James
But also planning on putting 32's or 33's on it as well.
I'm not mudding much, mostly use it on the beach in the sand.
Thanks James
WAVEPIMP said:
There is one item - an H55F 5 speed. Not cheap, but a great investment in driveability with the OD 5th gear. I run mine with 31's, 3:73 stock diffs and 2F. 2500 rpm = 72 to 73 mph.
Can't really tell you the mileage on this truck. About 15 MPG highway perhaps.
Also, keep in mind that if you are thinking that you are getting more MPG with bigger tires [read longer circumference] that is actually not the case. Because it takes the car farther with each turn of the wheel on bigger tires, it makes you think you are getting more MPG, when sometimes it's the same or even worse in the case of wider tires, which have a larger contact patch and therefore, usually more friction with the road surface. Unless, your speedo has been corrected, check it with a GPS to see actual mileage, just to make sure you are spot on.
Friction = bad = less MPG
If lower friction was all we were after we wouldn't be here in the first place, so we are after a compromise between fuel economy and utility. My VW has 196hp and gets up to 38mpg at 85 mph on the highway, but it's 3.5 inches off the ground and has trouble on driveways with lips, much less camping, gravel roads, etc...
As to advice to the original poster, while I may be fairly new to the LC world, I am no stranger to cars and am always trying to squeeze more mileage out of my cars, especially lately.
Keeping it in good tune is a good starting point and be sure and go buy a manual for your model year and refer to it as "The Bible" for keeping your new ride in good working order.
Good luck and enjoy!
Friction = bad = less MPG
If lower friction was all we were after we wouldn't be here in the first place, so we are after a compromise between fuel economy and utility. My VW has 196hp and gets up to 38mpg at 85 mph on the highway, but it's 3.5 inches off the ground and has trouble on driveways with lips, much less camping, gravel roads, etc...
As to advice to the original poster, while I may be fairly new to the LC world, I am no stranger to cars and am always trying to squeeze more mileage out of my cars, especially lately.
Keeping it in good tune is a good starting point and be sure and go buy a manual for your model year and refer to it as "The Bible" for keeping your new ride in good working order.
Good luck and enjoy!
I think that most (if not all) Aussie diffs are 4.11.
ColoradoLC: if you have smaller wheels the odometer will show higher miles than what you have really travelled.
Higher gearing probably wont help much for around town (probably worse fuel economy, but depends on tyre size).
Not trying to be critical, or nasty... just some points to ponder.
ColoradoLC: if you have smaller wheels the odometer will show higher miles than what you have really travelled.
Higher gearing probably wont help much for around town (probably worse fuel economy, but depends on tyre size).
Not trying to be critical, or nasty... just some points to ponder.
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I have a 85 fj60 and I think I read that if it was made after august 85 then the H55F would slap right on in. I think there are some mods that have to be done if it was made before august 85. I'll have to go look and see If I can find a build date somewhere on the vehicle.
If I am wrong about this, please correct me and also let me know of anything I might need to consider if I go the route of the H55F.
Laters
If I am wrong about this, please correct me and also let me know of anything I might need to consider if I go the route of the H55F.
Laters
Regarding my FJ62's mileage, it's about 20~22.5 mpg.
3.7 diff, H55F, carburetor 3F motor, 235/75/R15 tire, Point type vacuum advanced distributer, No emission control sytstems(EGR, CAT converter, Charcoal canister.
All were from factory but H55F. (I'd done swap from H41)
After swap to H55F, mileage was greately improved about 1~1.5 km/L difference.(2.363~3.544 mpg)
3.7 diff, H55F, carburetor 3F motor, 235/75/R15 tire, Point type vacuum advanced distributer, No emission control sytstems(EGR, CAT converter, Charcoal canister.
All were from factory but H55F. (I'd done swap from H41)
After swap to H55F, mileage was greately improved about 1~1.5 km/L difference.(2.363~3.544 mpg)