FZJ80 Overheating Again (1 Viewer)

[Devilmans Hand]

i think bart will be the resident head gasket replacement expert in no time.
bummer. I still have a vehicle down b/c of a leaking HG

 

[Von Hayek]

Steve and I managed to make some considerable progress on Rhea's 80. We managed to pull everything off of the head including the exhaust manifold, all of the intake and fuel injection, all of the sensors, and coolant plumbing. Right now we're trying to figure out how to get those darn camshafts out!

Cue sound of angels:

 

[topherbecker]

 

[Von Hayek]

Steve and I managed to get the cams out and the head off the other evening. Man, is that thing lighter and the head off of a 3FE! Pretty evident leakage at the #6 cylinder. There is also some discoloration of the #1 cylinder, #1 exhaust valves and spark plug. It is going to be interesting to see what the machine shop has to say about it.

Also managed to refresh the starter:

Next up while the head is off to the machine shop is to reseal the power steering pump and install a new water pump and drive belts.

I'm also wrestling with a broken stud in the exhaust manifold where it joins the downpipe. Soaked it a couple times with PB Blaster and then heated it with a propane torch, but it refuses to budge. Suggestions?

 

[76FJ40]

Kroil

 

[Blue77FJ40]

2x on the Kroil and give the Kroil a day or so with liberal applications. If you have enough left of the exposed stud to double nut, I'd try that alternating with propane torch. Another alternative if there is enough exposed stud is to weld a nut on the end of the stud. The heat from the welding should be more than enough to break the rust bonds. (I'd recommend to use anti-seize when reinstalling new studs, after you chase the stud threads.) Good luck.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

what size are the studs? i have an incomplete stud removal kit somewhere

if its useful to you anyway.

 

[OTRAMM]

I've got an extra can of Kroil if you need it. I've also got a pair of pliers that work awesome for pulling broken studs.

 

[Von Hayek]

Got some Kroil from Steve and it is soaking as we speak. See how it goes tomorrow evening. Ryan, I'm using a pair of vice grips. Is there something that would work better?

 

[76FJ40]

Knipex pliers

 

[OTRAMM]

knipex are awesome but for grabbing studs parrot pliers work even better. I had them on a tie rod last week and was jumping on them to get it to spin!

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

Another alternative if there is enough exposed stud is to weld a nut on the end of the stud. The heat from the welding should be more than enough to break the rust bonds. (I'd recommend to use anti-seize when reinstalling new studs, after you chase the stud threads.) Good luck.

X2

My cousin showed me this trick for the same thing. Not only did I snap the stud off flush with the manifold but I had also snapped a hardened EZ-out off as well.

It took a couple of tries because of the EZ-out but he just built up a weld right on top of the stud and gently worked it out with a pair of pliers.

Since then, I’ve used this trick dozens of times (joy of working on a 40). It works great if you can easily get to it and weld horizontally. As Dan mentioned, it’s even better if you have enough stud to weld on a nut.

Definitely give it a try if the Kroll doesn’t work.

 

[kulangot]

Looks great! good progress!

Ryan,

Snap-On Parrot pliers or the Vice Grip kind?

-Stumbaugh

 

[OTRAMM]

My name is Ryan and I have a habit. Snap On of course

 

[kulangot]

The church with wheels...the Snap On van.

It's like crack for a gear head.

You know its bad when you become friends with Snap-On guy.

 

[Von Hayek]

Unfortunately, the head is not going to be ready until after Thanksgiving. Disappointing because we are missing a lot free days that could have been used wrap up this job.

But in the meantime, we got some more work done, and some other work we failed at.

We installed a new water pump which led to a pretty funny discovery. I didn't go OEM for the pump -- I ordered an Aisin unit off of RockAuto knowing that they probably made the original pump. So when we compared the new Aisin to the factory pump, take a look:

compared to:

It appears to me that Aisin just ground off the Toyota logo and slapped an Aisin sticker over it. Hilarious.

Anyway, a new water pump is in the truck.

Managed to reseal the power steering pump too:

And all of the heater hoses behind the head have been replaced:

What we were not able to do is remove the stud from the exhaust manifold. After two days of soaking in Kroil, the darn thing would not budge. So, following the advice of a few of you above, we welded a nut to the stud (fourth time was a charm) and when we applied torque it just snapped the stud off lower down.

I'm debating whether to take this to a machine shop or buy a tap & die set with the money I would save by not going to the machine shop

 

[kulangot]

Aisin and Denso (NipponDenso) are a part of Toyota.

You need one of these to get the bolt out:

Metal disintegrator for Broken Bolts, Tabs, & Stud removal - YouTube

 

[kulangot]

Better description

Electro Arc Metal Disintegrator - YouTube

I don't know if there is one in this area.

 

[Von Hayek]

Better description

Electro Arc Metal Disintegrator - YouTube

I don't know if there is one in this area.

I'm heading out to Lowe's to pick one up right now

 

[Thornton]

Damn Bart, that thing is going to be spottless when you're done. By the way, in post #22 it looks like you've got one of Santa's elfs on a step stool helping you. How did you arange that?