Fuel Pump Inertia Cutoff Switch location on 2'nd generation 100 series.

[Racemachinesweden]

Hello!
I am the new owner of a 2004 Land Cruiser that I recently bought at an insurance auction. It looks like it slid into a crurb or something. A couple of damaged wheels, bent suspension components etc. Frame is however straight and the drivetrain seems undamaged. Body is pretty good and interior is excellent. 140 000 miles. I hope to use it to tow a light horse trailer once I get it running.

Electrics seem to work fine, no codes, cranks fine but no fuel. Given the type of impact, I thought a good thing to check is the fuel pump inertia cutoff switch which seems to be located to the right of the drivers right leg under the dash on the earlier (2002 and older) 100 series. I stuck my head in there and at least cannot easily find it on this one... Looked under the carpet along the transmission tunnel. The center console looks pretty crowded with other stuff, but no inertia switch in sight.

Anyone here that knows where the switch is is located? Did they hide it up behind the dash somewhere? I have browsed the OE factory repair manual under the "fuel system" section and the owners manual as well. I find no mention of an inertia switch anywhere in the literature that I have.

Best regards,
Andreas

 

[PADDO]

MY '03 on ceased to have the mechanical "roller ball" fuel cut off switch and adopted an electronic cut off for when the motor stalls or airbags are deployed - it's reset when the key is turned to ACC or LOCK.
HTH

 

[Racemachinesweden]

MY '03 on ceased to have the mechanical "roller ball" fuel cut off switch and adopted an electronic cut off for when the motor stalls or airbags are deployed - it's reset when the key is turned to ACC or LOCK.
HTH

Thank you Paddo.
So if the electronic cutoff is reset when the key is put back in off, I assume it shoud be reset by now then?
Upon further investigation it became apparent that the red security flashing light on the center console does not go off when i put the key in the ignition or when I turn it to "acc" or "on".
The battery has been disconnected between tries. I assume this has no effect on the security system?
A strange thing about the (only) key is that it does not work on any of the door locks. Could all external locks have siezed up over time due to lack of use over 15 years? I know salt can do this over time but maybe an unlikely scenario on a rust free CA car? The remote locking and alarm/panic button works and obviously the ignition key works mechanically in the ignition lock.
Could it be the RF tranponder in the key that has gone bad? My experience in trouble shooting tells me that it is very unusual that two independent faults appear at the same time. Faults that appear to have different cauuses are usually related. How could a relativley minor crash have affected the key RF transponder or security system functionality?
Best regards,
Andreas

 

[HFDPNL]

The security light staying on would leave me to believe that you are correct about the RF on the key head not being matched to the ignition.
As far as key not working in the doors, I'm guessing someone changed the ignition as they have a common problem of snapping internally. Dealer can cut you a key from the VIN that should work in the doors.

 

[Racemachinesweden]

Thank you HFDPNL.
Anyone has a theory why the RF suddenly does not work? The car apparently ran a couple of months ago, then crashed and now the security light will not come off. No airbags went off. I checked the glovebox as well and the key will not work there either.
It only turns the ignition lock.

 

[n55luvr]

People say all kinds of things when unloading a broken vehicle. Did you ever see it run in person? Sure sounds like an immobilizer issue.

 

[Racemachinesweden]

Thanks n55luvr.
No, I bought the truck from the insurance company so I never saw it run.
Looking at the truck when i got it, my conclusion is that the damage was casued by the vehicle being propelled forward by its own power and then hitting a hard object breaking a wheel, damaging the suspension etc. It also seems highly uniklely the vehicle was driven after the accident which leads me to believe the motor was running until the time of the accident and that it has not run since.
Unfortunately I have no way of knowing for sure if the key that was in the ignition when I got the truck was the one being used when the vehice was driven last, but it turns the ignition switch and activates the alarm, so it at least seems assiciated with this vehicle.
Should I take the key to the dealerhip and ask them to test it? What if the key RF chip is "broken". Will I be able to make a new key without a working master?
Any other ideas for next steps?

I am thinking about getting Techstream for further trouble shooting.
New Mini VCI J2534 OBD2 Diagnostic Tool Code Reader for Lexus Toyota Techstream
Will I need K-line ( not included in newer 32 bit and 64 bit version) or should I go for the older version that is 32bit only but supports K-line?

 

[PADDO]

I use the older 32 Bit Version 7xxx Techstream which has pin 7, K-line, active on my '03 LX and it works well. I'm aware of others who have encountered problems when their K line wasn't active. For an '04 I'd stick with the older version with K line support.

 

[billygoats]

Perhaps the cars original keys were lost during the insurance claim, and the ins co. Had a replacement ignition switch and key put in from a parts car. They only programmed the keyless, but not the immobilizer. Try reprogramming the immobilizer

 

[Racemachinesweden]

I ordered Techstream today. It will be interesting to see what using it will reveal.

 

[Racemachinesweden]

Brought the key to a local automotive locksmith and he used a little gadget to verify that the key has a "functioning transponder".

 

[Racemachinesweden]

Here is a brief update, some clues and more questions...:
After configuring and hookong up Teachstream it was confirmed that the ECU does not sense that I put the key in the ignition, nor does it recognize the the trasponder/RF device.

The immobilizer codes via Techstream are the following:
B2780 Push switch/key unlock warning switch
B2795 Unmatched Key Code


The push switch/key unlock switch is a little microswitch on the side of the ignition lock (tucked under the RF antenna connector) that senses if the key is in it or not.
I proceeded to remove the panel that surrounds the ignition lock only to discover there is no Key Unlock Warning swich on my ignition lock. Someone obviously removed it competely at some point. The only thing left is the matching harness connector.
Looking down to the left of the footwelll there is a "shock sensor" which is spliced into the harness. Checking the part numer it appears to be the same shock sensor used by Toyota for their dealer installed supplementary alarm system.
Doing some further reading online it seems the OE remote starter/ supplemetary alarm was a port- or dealer-installed option.

I am therefore suspecting that my car has the OE/dealer installed remote starting system. I unfortunately have no idea how that system works and I dont have the remote for it. Obviously part of the immobilizer system will have to be disabled by the remote starter in order for the car to start without the key in it and I asume that is why the key swich was removed.
There are also some spliced wires behind the glove compartment adjacent to the ECU, two of them going into the passenger door. I have not dug any deeper or found a control box for a remote starter. There is a small device the size of a relay jist below the ECU that is part of the supplemetary wiring.

I have the following questions:
Does the push switch/key unlock switch need to be closed to initiate the transponder handshake or ist it enough to hold a key near the lock to disable the immobilizer? I am guessing both codes are generated from the same original problem since it in my experience is very unusual that two apparently related problems occur independently at the same time.
If the car in fact has the OE remote starter option installed, will I always need to have the remote starter with me to start the car or will the key suffice?
How hard would it be to de-install the remote starter to bring the car back to stock and what is the procedure? Will I need to re-program the ECU or is it hardware/wiring changes only?
Where is the remote starter main control unit located and what are the other sub components and modifications to the vehicle?
Ideally someone out there has the OE installation instructions?


Before I solve the missing key unlock warning switch mystery I see not point to purchase a pass-code to "re-marry" the transponder with the immobilizer assuming that if the car does not sense a key in the lock it will not complete the reprogramming procedure.

Any input from this forum would be most appreciatied!

Using the call log in the phone book of the car I recently left a message to the most frequently called/recieved number to see if that person can possibly help me get in touch with the previous owner hoping to get some much neeeded additional clues to this mystery.