Front wheels don't spin freely

[srogers]

Swapping out my tires to the studded winter tires and had the rig on the jack, noticed that the fronts don't spin "freely" - seems similar to when you don't have the drum brakes set correct, where it spins but sounds like the brakes are slightly "dragging".

Is this brake related? Bearings? No noticeable leaks of any type.

Any input is appreciated.

 

[srogers]

Found this using the search function: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/341523-front-brake-issues.html

Rig has 95k miles on it, no issues with the brakes but I also don't have any documentation that the master cylinder has ever been replaced (I have all receipts from new).

 

[lcwizard]

How long have you owned the truck? Have you swapped wheels before and this wasn't the case?
How long since wheel bearings were serviced? There are a few obvious possibilities like brakes dragging
or too much preload on the wheel bearings. If you've changed rims and tires recently you could have an issue with backspace and the rims rubbing the tie rod ends or calipers. The odds that a brake issue would be on both sides all of a sudden seems unlikely unless there is pressure built up in the lines. Cracking a bleeder would tell you that.

 

[srogers]

I've owned the rig for not quite four years, and both sets of wheels are the OEM 60 series wheels so no back spacing. I show no record of the front wheel bearings being serviced, so that is a possibility, but what I don't know is how much "drag" is normal for the front discs.

I swap the tires early spring/late fall ever year and usually give everything a once over, and I don't recall this having as much drag last time (6 months ago). I'll get the rig on a jack stand tomorrow and see if I can get any play from the wheel.

 

[Freewheel]

last time I had dragging fronts, it was one one side only. I took off both front calipers to find that a number of pistons had frozen on both sides of the front axle. (there are 4 pistons per side) I think 2 on one side were frozen and three on the other. New calipers and all was right again... another thing to check...

 

[lehiguy]

If you decrease bearing pre-load to the point that there is little drag, they will be too loose. The pads should also be in contact with the rotor, touching, not pressing, when the brakes are not being applied. If you can move the pads and pistons away from the rotor, meaning they easily move, then I would say everything is normal.

 

[TobyB]

I'm with Freewheel for sticking pistons-

the on- road test is to drive a bit at 35+ without
using the brakes, then see if any part of the caliper is warm or hot.
If they're truly stuck, they'll burn you, so be careful.

Or if the hub is hot, that points to bearings. I often check the hub
temps by feel after a long run- I've caught a dry bearing or 2
in the trailer that way....

fwiw

t

 

[srogers]

Thanks all - I am in the habit of putting my hands on the hubs after a drive to check for heat, and haven't had any issue. Drove the truck a short distance today without issue but I'll take it for a longer drive this weekend.

As a rule of thumb, is there a recommended maintenance schedule for brake components? I.e. Replacement of the matter cylinder, or callpers, etc.? I don't see any documents indicating major brake work, so I can't confirm age of the hardware, but not certain how to know when I should give it some attention. No noticeable braking issues (aside from being an almost 30 year old Cruiser)